Wanting to get at the brake adjusters that are frozen, so attempting to pull the wheel(s) Does that center nut have to come off? Looks like it’s about 2-13/16” Thanks
As luck would have it, we have just been talking about the same job on a Fiat Allis grader. HeavyEquipmentForums
Yes, the nut has to come off, and you better have a 50 ton puller to pull that thing off. Be prepared to clean your pants when it finally lets loose.
And dont fully remove the nut when your using the puller,just crack it loose so the hub dosent go flying when the taper lets go.
If you don't have the cat tooling or a suitable puller arrangement you can use this method jack up three wheel off the ground. leave the wheel that you want to remove on the ground if you can back off the brake adjustment through the slots in the backing plate if you have access to a lathe or an engineer you can make a flogging nut that will screw on to the axle thread or you can sacrifice an axle nut and weld it to a sold piece of round or hex bar stock about 3 to 4 inches in diameter and about 5 to 6 inches long make sure you have some clearance between the flogging nut and the wheel hub also make sure that the axle is in contact with the inside rear of the flogging nut with the three wheels still of the ground hit the end of the flogging nut with a big sledge hammer the length of the flogging nut is to insure you can get a decent swing with sledge hammer
I like all the suggestions Got the nut off , that was plenty tight/rusty and needed a little heat So next step will be to make a bar to use as a force puller and 2 , 3/4 inch bolts Really don’t think it has been off since new, so we’ll see?? I like the idea of making a flogging nut, and will if go to that if nothing else works. Rust and tapers can be nasty, right?
Am I seeing it wrong or is there already 2 bolts broke off in the pulling holes?
Cat used to put cork plugs in these holes i have always found shock treatment with the sledge is best for these old girls
So is this hub off yet? I’ve been gone a few days
He's at the laundry presently cleaning his garments.
It has to be pressed on at 25 tons when reassembled or all the homemade removal device work will have been for nothing. No sense ruining them after all that hard work.
humm Good point I also run across the flogging tool info in an older Cat manual a long time ago and that is how they suggested a field repair but I have no memory of reassembling.
To reassemble make a small alteration to the flogging nut. Machine out a space behind the thread in the flogging nut that is longer than the thread that is exposed on the axle after you remove the nut fit wheel by hand to axle as far as you can. Screw on flogging nut to tighten wheel against the taper on the axle. hold pressue on the flogging nut with large stilsons or large spanner and hit end of flogging nut. keep doing this until nut stops turning i have never had a loose wheel hub doing it this way
No luck getting the wheel loose or off. Heated the wheel up twice with a flame thrower , second time it was 700 degrees. Pulling , pounding with a sledge, and the heat ,and it wouldn’t give up. Rebuilt my puller stronger 2 times , maybe 3. Finally give up. Would have liked to see it come off , so I could free the stuck brake adjusters. Could have tried another wheel ,but the guy is going to live with it and pump the brakes 5 times to get a pedal.
Following! Thanks "Nige" for the pointer to this thread!
If anyone knows of a commercially available setup (puller, pressing setup for re-install) I'd love to check that out!
im pulling on one right now
Pics? I must say I do like Mark250's home-built removal and replacement tools. They can be on very tight - but they NEED to be tight, because there's nothing worse than a grader wheel hub that's come loose, and destroyed the taper. Remember that when you fix the brakes on a Cat 12, you'll need to fix them again in 6 mths time!!
im going to try to get a pic. of my rig.... i tryed 20ton didnt work. i have a 50ton, but it too big. got a 30 going to try it with some heat. id like to see mark250s pic?? see how someones rig looks. thanks
This is mine. I tight the bolts very well and I hit. I trusted it very much. This bolts at photo is not the bolts I use. The best is bolts from the engine of the cat955 loader from the cap
Yes, those bolts in the photo are only Grade 5, 120,000psi strength. Cat bolts are all Grade 8, 150,000psi tensile strength. Much better to use the strongest bolts you can find, when pulling.
wooow got them off.... all i need now is a drum and 1set of shoes
ok guys any idea where to get brake parts
You might have to get the shoes relined may need to send them out if nobody nearby Drum broken? otherwise probaly going to need to reuse it
They're pretty standard Lockheed-Wagner brake components, any half-capable brake and clutch supplier should be able to help you out. The drum is a Cat part.
I might have the shoe linings and rivets and I have a riveting machine, get me a few measurements like width, length and rivet configuration in imperial measurements. They don't call them the "F-in" 12 for nothing....
Try General Gear and Machine in Boise Idaho. Good people; they know equipment and are easy to talk to. Two thumbs up !