Hello I picked up a 226 that when started acts like running on 3 cylinders, one it warms up the 4th cylinder will kick in and the machine will run fine, I replaced the injectors and made no difference. I am not losing oil or water so looking for adive on what to check. Thank you
Check the valves would be my next step How may hours on it. How's the compression
Tyler d4c, thank you, I will try to check the compression this weekend.
Why not follow Tyler's suggestions in order and check the valve clearances first.? Apart from being easier to do it's also the most logical sequence.
Nige, I am not a mechanic, just a DYIer, and thought I would need to pull the head, I will check the valve clearance first. Thank you
No, you’ll only need to remove the valve (top) cover to check the clearances. I’ll post something up later to give you a better idea.
I'm assumin gthis is an early 226 (5FZxxxxx Serial Number). To get at the valves remove the hose #5 and the three fasteners #11.
Nige Thank you Sir, very helpful information.
Not sure if I fat fingered the heading or what but the Skid Steer is a 216 not a 226, the hour meter reads 1371 hours. Looks to be the same engine but the valve cover is a different configuration. The clearance on the valves was very tight, a couple appeared to be holding the valves over a bit. I adjusted to .014 but could not start the engine, the lap bat switch had been acting up and now will no work at all, tried jumping it out, could stop it from blinking but not go out, I read you cannot bypass the switch so am looking for a replacement.
So the machine Serial Number is 4NZxxxxx.? Valve cover looks like this.? If so the valve adjustment procedure is still the same as the one I posted above.
I was able to run the 216 yesterday, adjusting the valves did not make a difference. I am off week after next and will do a compression test.
My compression tester does not have anything that will work on this engine, will need to find the right fittings. the first picture is the injector that is in the front of the engine, towards the seat, the second picture is what the other 3 injectors look like
They should all look the same I would think. The front one looks like anti freeze is getting in there. Its steam cleaned. That or injector is dripping after shut down, and misses until excess fuel is burned off.
Normally use a adaptor in the glow plug hole
I am not losing any anti-freeze, it does not fire until it has warmed up for a couple minutes. did the same with the original injectors.
No glow plugs on this motor
Do yo know which cyl is miss firing
my guess is the front, closest to the seat, due to the diffrence in the injectors.
Did you not try cracking the injector lines one at a time to check which one caused no difference to the "misfire" when you loosened the swivel nut.? You could do this either at the injector or the fuel pump end, whichever is more accessible.
if its a 3024 engine head gasket blows between 1-2 cylinder head gaskets were common failure at one point. They generally keep running.......but will fill the engine with carbon eventually causing bearing failure. if the problem is not addressed. will start hard have more smoke less power and often runs on 3cyl. a new updated gasket is now available. If you open the rear door and view the engine on the LH side at the rear of the corner of the cylinder head. if you see a eyelet with a brass inset you have the updated gasket............not that it cant blow...but its a much more reliable part.
the gasket may even have a bit blown out so its easy to see .Pushrod hole maybe filled with carbon and stuck to push rod.be sure to cut the oil filer to check for bearing damage
Better look again unless it's some super rare variant
I did not see an eyelet in the gasket
you are correct and I am a dumb ass. i
now do your compression test. if you sacrifice a glow plug you can modify it to hook to a gauge 0-500 or a 0-400psi would likely suffice. if you have a test light hook the ground to positive + now with the bridge bar between the glow plugs removed, touch the tester tip onto the threaded portion of the glow plug......if it lights the glow plug is good proceed for other 3 plugs if one don't light its bad use this one for the tester you will be destroying the glow plug basically to adapt to the threaded portion to attach your gauge might have to do a bit of bronzing or mig welding to accomplish this. if one is bad you are better off on reassembly to replace them all if funds allow. a difference of no more than 10% between cylinders is what you want. post your numbers. I don't have the spec and not going to tell you what I think it is ,plenty of people on here with SIS at there finger tips.my answers are all from doing!
Good morning, first glow plug removed, rear of the engine, spun and could not get not loose. the other 3 can loose with no issues. Would anyone know what thread the glow plug has?
Little info, the skid steer is 40 miles away from my home, I have a Harbor Freight compression tester that I have had for a while, for some reason the 10mm X 1.25 glow plug tester would not thread into the head. Had to drive back to the house and chase the threads, will go back out in the morning and give it another go.
Good morning, Compression test starting from the rear of the machine. 510 psi 480 480 290 The front glow plug was wet when removed.
you have a problem! pull your cylinder head
either a bad head gasket, burnt valve, hole in piston or seized or broken rings.
my money is on a blown head gasket
Head is off, front piston is not coming to the top of the block, stops about 3/16" from the top. Bent rod?
That or he's going to need a rebuild kit!
couple pictures
did the engine knock? think your going to be pulling that engine. typically a bent rod will not reach TDC and will cause a misfire. there are some pretty good aftermarket complete rebuild kits out there. with every thing you need you wont get a connecting rod though.I used one of these kits several years ago and was pretty impressed. everything down to o rings gaskets seals etc etc
There was no loud knock, this is my first skid steer so.. I lifted the cab, will I need to pull the hydraulics or will the engine separate?
If you have adequate lfting capacity, snatch everything in one lump and separate the pumps from the engine afterwards.
there's no easy way I've tried them all .its just plain ugly! From a time perspective this may suit you...its faster. first remove the cooler/rad assembly This will give you way more room air cleaner housing has to come off .remove various wires etc inc the battery. remove exhaust and flex pipe as a unit .slide in a cherry picker there are 2 lift lugs on top of the engine use them. put 2 small d shackles on the lugs if you don't when making the lift the lugs will bend inwards and damage the valve cover. with the engine SUPPORTED remove the rear bumper the rear motor mount goes through it. loosen the 4 bolts on the rear LH And RH motor mounts .don't forget the braided ground strap fixed from engine block to frame. now lift the cab. find a heavy piece piece of flat bar or rebar and slide it through the bottom cut outs on the lifted cab, hook a 1/4 ton chain fall here wrap a short lift strap around the pumps keeping it close to the engine side rear of pump .lay on a creeper and remove the 2 hydrostat pump bolts they are 18mm there is a Cat tool for this that will make your job easier. or make something .take a little weight on the chain fall. now pull on the end of the hyd pump if its stubborn use a blue bar and pry up on it then bare down it will separate leave it hanging. remove the 8 bolts on the LH and RH engine mounts pull engine out. This way you are not all crunched up under the cab fighting with hoses remembering where they go and having to drain the hydraulic tank.be sure when its out to take a good look at the nylon coupler and replace it if needed......unless you really enjoyed the engine removal process and want to do it again!!! now is a good time to do it! also be sure the steel coupler on the hydro stat is tight and has not moved there is a measurement spec for this you will need. Loctite the screws (2) that hold it if you take it off. now the coupler was updated and if you may find you need to replace them both as the new style nylon disc wont fit the old steel drive hub! check it fits before engine install or you will never mate the engine to the hydrostat! on install . find a willing participant to roll the engine using a 1-7/16 socket on the crank pulley, while you align the hydrostat and slide it together DONT pull it in with the bolts!!
may not be the sis way but believe me I have yanked out my share of Cat and other skid steer engines!
I have too much going on right now to try to rebuild the engine, I think I am going to replace the head gasket run it this summer and then bring it back to my shop this fall. I believe that is what was done initially before I purchased the skid steer. I did get a 3024C Disassembly and Assembly manual so will be reading up on it. Thank you