Can anyone share the proper method of pulling the engine on my 226,I have to try and patch the block and replace some damaged internal parts. Thanks
As always a full S/N will help get a accurate answer. I checked in SIS and for the 226 there are eight different serial number prefixes I don't want to just pick one and find out it is giving you the wrong information.
226 Original or A model is a 5fz prefix
Yes,that's the correct prefix, 5fz1452 ,bought her new in 2000.
The Cat dealer I worked for used a special tool that was counterweighted and had different hook points to enable lifting the engine out of the machine safely. It took them between two and four hours to remove the engine depending on the person doing the job. There is not a lot of difference in how the engine is mounted and what is connected to it between serial numbers in that model of skid steer.
Thanks,I don't know how the drive is connected,I was hoping someone might have a step by step for this.
Well hope this is not too big an attachment but here is what Cat says. Of course as always the official method can be modified, if one understands things, to fit what tools are available!
Thanks, that's what i needed.
Very good info on the PDF, now I hope someone can help with some info on the proper method of engine disassembly and re-assembly. I think that I had a connecting rod cap bolt failure. I heard somewhere that is pretty common with these engines. I am hoping to be able to fix this engine, I just need to get a look inside and see what all is damaged.
If seriously wanting to have the complete disassembly and re-assembly instructions for this engine it might be worth doing a search online to see what manuals are available. Either that or contact your local Cat dealer to see if you can get access to SIS, I have no idea what is involved in that. I get my access through the company where I worked. If it was just a matter of downloading one file I might help that way but as each section of the repair manual is a separate file and just a quick look I would guess there could be as many as 100 separate files if not more. Not being familiar with this exact engine I can't say too much, but I would think that 90% of the disassembly would be fairly basic mechanic type work. I'd say get engine out and on the floor and remove the oil pan and see what things look like in there. I mean if rod bolt broke and destroyed crank and/or engine block it may not be worth trying to repair. If you get it out and want to post some pictures I'm sure someone will have advice on what way to go, although the news may not be what you are hopping for.
Yes, you are right,i it might be damaged beyond repair.The only reason I'm hopeful is because I was running it and I shut it down quickly. The block is cracked badly but if there is nothing else wrong with it I think I can patch it. I am expecting to need a crank and rod assembly for one cylinder,if I'm lucky. I just want to get it running for use around my property. Thanks for the help.
Well if you do need some basic information on say timing marks, bolt torques I'm sure myself or someone else can help with those. And I can understand that the standards for a repair might be a lot different for a machine you are just using say a few hours a week around your property compared to a machine that will be worked hard 40 to 50 hours a week doing pipeline work!
You should be looking for Cat Publication RENR2850. Here's a paper manual on eBay. Sounds expensive but a new paper one is listed at $845. You could get the same thing on CD for $515 from the same source. It might pay you to buy either a paper or CD manual. It could be sold separately at a later date and you'd likely get your money back. https://www.ebay.com/itm/CAT-CATERP...7082?_trksid=p2349526.m4383.l4275.c4#viTabs_0
Here's what the block looks like on the outside.
Well depending on what you find inside it maybe fixable at least for light duty work. Looks like it hit a non-reinforced area of the block. If no oil galleys or other critical things on the inside got hurt you might get lucky.
If you are using this machine to make money don't even bother trying to repair a cracked block, if it goes down again you are out all that time, and possibly even more money since it might fail harder the next time and damage more components.
Shirley someone here can give the breakdown of that RENR2850 in a list so the engine manual(s) can be ordered separately. Why buy the whole book when Caterpillar will gladly sell you just the sections you need?
Get it running, paint it, and send to auction.
If you read the post from the OP that you quoted above closely ........... "I just want to get it running for use around my property........"
The D&A for the engine appears to be SENR5013. Not available online for download anywhere that I can see. Personally i can't see the reluctance to buy service manuals, especially when considering the price of the manual versus the value of the machine. They can be always sold (probably for the same price as they were bought) on at a future date.
How many times do I have to tell you not to call me Shirley! I can't find a list of the sections right off in the complete manual but it appears that the two that should have the complete engine information would be: Disassembly and Assembly - SENR 5013 Specifications - SENR 5008 Not seeing anything online for those two numbers but might be worth calling the local Cat Dealer for pricing on them!
Well that fear of spending money on manuals does not just go for say some farmer with a 20 year old skid steer. I tried for a few years to get the major company I worked for to buy the manuals for the brand new 773G they bought in 2011 and still could not get them to buy one when I retired in 2015! But at least I had access to SIS so I could get by with that!
I have bought manuals in the past, my first tractor, a 941b, I bought a manual new from Cat dealer for $120 back in 1994. The price for the manuals has been inflated much more than my income.....it it highway robbery!
Ok guys,I got the engine out a few weeks ago and I'm about to get started tearing it down next week,I will be posting pics soon,thanksfor the help!
Crack looks pretty nasty. I don't want to be a Debbie Downer but I'd be suprised if the engine is salvageable. My guess is a rod cap came off and the crank drove the rod into the side of the block on its last rotation. The block might be able to be patched but I'd be concerned about the crankshaft being damaged.
Speaking from experience those blocks dont weld up for nothing. Call weavers compact tractor. There where I get parts for these they normally have good blocks for reasonable.
Weavers did not have a block, I took a look inside mine and the block appears to be ruined,busted through the water jacket,the crank appears to be fine. The rod broke! I don't know why! If I can't find a block for a reasonable price,I guess I am going to re-power with something else. If anyone has done a re-power with some other brand engine I would love to hear the details.