hey all, i have no right stick hydraulics for my arms or bucket movement but i do have 4 in 1 opening and closing any ideas wat might cause this?? thanks in advance
Maybe post a Serial number, as there may be different configurations out there. How many hours on unit. Did it just start all of a sudden, or has it been hit and miss. Have you checked all the fuses, is there any codes for the unit? Any previous repairs done. Simon C
Check your door safety switch, that can shutdown implement hydraulics. The 4 in 1 runs off auxiliary hydraulics, which may not be affected by door switch.
Seat switch (if it has one) is usually wired in series with the door switch. A machine Serial Number would help identify the appropriate electrical schematic and show what implement lockout switches it might have.
hey mate ok so some more info i should've given at start but was lazy im sorry... so machine had been sitting for a few months and along came mister rat and chewed a couple wires so when i picked it up i noticed the diagnostic plug was missing so got that re wired and away she went starts runs smooth as but took a while to get movement back and forth figured it could've been low on hydraulic so topped it up and sure enough its moving.... just without the arms lifting... door switch is working fine seat switch has been jumper wired already'... scematics jus confuse the absolute **** outa me but its a 2005 build date... behnd the fuse's is the ecm or computers right? how many plugs should there be into those? could there possibly be a chewed wire into them i couldve missed??
Without a machine Serial Number we’re all blundering around in the dark. If you had a rodent infestation then the chances are that somewhere another wire you haven’t seen yet is chewed up. If you get confused with schematics then my best advice is to find someone who doesn’t to help you out.
mjh03857
Check your message inbox for an electrical schematic. If you have difficulty interpreting it then I suggest to find a good auto-sparky.
I had a good look at the schematic that I believe Nige sent to me a while back, and from the Interlock ECM to the safety switches ( Armrest Switch/ Seat Switch ) is a lot of wire and plugs. The Auxiliary Hydraulic Control ECM is also tied into it. You either know how to read the schematic or if unsure you will have to hire an Electrical Schematic Technician as Nige said. Your Armrest switch is in fact wired series with your Seat Switch as Nige said. As Arny said your 4 in 1 does run off your auxillary hydraulics, even though your right stick is inoperative for boom up. You should probably start by repairing your safety switches so that they can OHM meter correctly and also carry a light bulb of load with them disconnected. This is not rocket science but many find it very difficult to understand, and requires skillful testing so as not to blow up a computer or cause further damage. Not sure about what you can handle. Could tell you how to test the harness from computer to the safety switches, but don't want to send you into too much for your experience. Maybe it is fixed already.? Simon C
You need RENR6419
I have RENR6419-06 and it lists his serial number. Think I got it from you a year or 2 ago. Simon C
unfortunately its not yet fixed id be moree then happy to read whatever you send me mate im going to have a couple hours spare this weekend to look further so fire away if you hve the time id appreciate it...
granville nige? like syd, aus? or is there more then 1 granville in the world lol
So why not start somewhere to see what we can figure out is locking you out. You may of repaired or jumpered the seat switch but would be better to fix it. Lets test a few things; #1 Have you load tested the ground cables coming from the Interlock Control to the center of the Negative post of the battery. Put your Red Test Lead with a backprobing pin to Pin #3, while putting your Black test lead on the Negative post of the Battery. Reading should be less than 0.1 Volts with engine running. #2 Test from the Interlock Computer Pin # 1 with Black lead on it and Red lead at center of Battery Positive post . Both of these tests should be done with Engine running. Reading should not be over 0.3 volts. Why not test the Operator Interlock Control for Power also at Pins# 24,47,58,60 . These should have battery power. Can you take a picture of your fuse panel as well as you battery compartment and post it. We are not there and need to see something to give a better idea of condition of things. To help yourself out I usually take a picture of the Interlock computer on the schematic as well as the Auxilary Hydraulic Control to see the wire colours on any pin you want to test. By seeing adjacent pin wire colours you will more easily figure out what pin is what. Also on the interactive schematic, take a picture of the location of which computer is which and where. Start with this first and maybe we can figure it out. Simon C