I recently purchased a Cat rubber track skid steer, only came with a bucket, recently bought a grapple and thats when i realized my aux hydraulics are not functioning. After inspection, the micro switch on my right joystick was broken. Called Cat and ordered what was supposed to be the one for it using the serial number to confirm. I went to get it and it was the wrong one. After talking to a service tech, they had one that he suggested in stock, took it home and it has a 12 pin hook up where only 4 pins are used. My old stick only had 3 wires in a 4 pin plug? It will plug into the 12 pin connector but still nothing works. I believe i have other issues but need to find the correct stick, unless this is a replacement that is supposed to work? My last 8 of then Vin is CMM00489. and the part number of the stick they gave me is 218-6118. Can anyone verify that this is right and if not, give me the correct number for my part? Thanks in advance!
Your post isn't 100% clear. When you say "the micro switch on my right joystick was broken" is that a push-button switch (one of two on the handle) you are talking about or a thumbwheel roller.?
This might help. Since your machine was built the joysticks were updated. The original 2-button joystick handle was a 159-5751 (6-pin connector) that updated to 218-6118 (12-pin connector). To successfully marry the new Part Number of joystick handle to the old-style wiring harness on the machine requires a 242-8277 jumper harness. If you have a handle with a roller switch then 160-4320 handle (6-pin) was replaced by 242-8279 handle (12-pin). Again the 242-8277 jumper harness is required to connect the new stye handle to the existing machine wiring. See attached.
Thanks for being so nice! Mine is the one on the left with two buttons, no thumbwheel.
OK, in that case 218-6118 is the correct handle for you, you are just missing the jumper harness. You threw me a bit when you mentioned a 4-pin connector and the electrical schematic showed a 6-pin. See below - both options. Kudos for posting the Serial Number BTW, it makes looking up information so much easier. When you go back to the dealer just for sh1ts & giggles ask them why they couldn't come up with this information.?
IKR!? I told them the plug wasn't right and he even looked and told me sometimes they make adaptor plugs for updated parts but didn't see any, also I checked availability at the same store and they even have one in stock! I still don't think that is all of my problem but I know I needed a joystick just for starters. What needs to be done to activate the aux hydraulics? Just the one switch on the upper left of the cab?
Too funny..!! I found those 2 docs in no more than a couple of minutes. Sounds like you also need an Operation & Maintenance Manual. I take it that you don't have one.? Look for SEBU7494 but you can download a pdf copy from Cat for $52. If you are going to maintain the machine yourself it will be invaluable. Auxiliary Hydraulic Control – Press the left side of the auxiliary hydraulic control (A1) in order to provide hydraulic oil flow to the lower auxiliary hydraulic line. Press the right side of the auxiliary hydraulic control (A2) in order to provide hydraulic oil flow to the upper auxiliary hydraulic line. if you are thinking of these 4 switches on the LH side of the cab above the window #24 is for the Axuiliary Electrical Control, for attachments requiring electrical power in other words. You really need an O&M Manual........
You are the best man! I will purchase a manual and thanks so much for your help!
I still haven’t had any luck with my auxiliary hydraulics. I have the right joystick and jumper harness in place, also changed both modulating/solenoids on the valve block and still nothing. I have the ECM out, I was told by someone who works for Cat that if the connection was corroded or in bad shape, it was probably bad but the connection looks brand new, outside of ECM is dirty but connection looks great. Does anyone know how to check the pins and see if that is my problem before purchasing one? They are very expensive remanned! Also if I need one, does anyone know where to buy them aftermarket or know someone that rebuilds them cheaper? Cat wants $4000 with a $1200 core!
Personally I would suggest now is the time to get ET on it and look at whatever Diagnostic Codes exist. The problem with the earlier series of machines of machines is that Diagnostic Codes are not accessible from the Monitor Panel in the same way as they are on later machines. It will cost you, but certainly not the amount you’re looking at for a new ECM that isn’t even guaranteed to fix the problem. You don’t necessarily have to use the dealer if you can find a local independent mechanic who has ET.
I am trying to get a guy out here now that works for Cat. I was hoping I could check the ECM myself before calling but no luck. I know that the only thing I’ve noticed that doesn’t work is the rocker switch for continuous flow or override. I know this doesn’t have to be switched to run the aux hyd, but would that hold them out if not working? Everything else works as it should, just not the aux hyd.
When I say the switch is not working, I mean the light doesn’t come on when I move it either direction…
Have you tested the switch at the wiring harness connector with a DMM.? I agree it shouldn't make any difference but that switch is an input to the ECM and if it is acting screwy it could affect who-knows-what.
Are you referring to a multimeter? Not sure what to check for, Ohms?
Yup. DMM = digital multimeter. You have the electrical schematic. I've simplified the schematic to remove the panel light. Check for open circuit/continuity as follows:- 1. Check continuity of 201 Black (Pin 5) to machine frame ground 2. Check for permament battery voltage between 122 Red (Pin 2) and machine frame ground. 3. Check for battery voltage between 123 White (Pin 10) and machine frame ground with the key switch in the ON position. 4. With the switch in the centre you should have continuity between Pin 4 and pin 5 (or Pin 9). 5. With the switch up or down (not sure which) you should have continuity between Pin 4 and Pin 10. 6. With the switch in the other operating position I think (schematic is not 100% clear) you should have continuity between Pin 2 and Pin 1 because the machine power goes via wire P985 Pink to pull in a couple of relays.
I found it! Merry Christmas!
What did you end up finding ?? I am having the same problem with a 257B
IIRC he found damaged wiring somewhere in the harness, probably something had rubbed on it.
Seeing as you have a different model I'd suggest you create a new thread on your problem (in the CTL/MTL section please because the 257 is a CTL and not a Skid Steer) and give the machine serial Number to identify the correct electrical schematic for it. HeavyEquipmentForums
Mine ended up being the ECM after all! Expensive but it’s fixed!
Mine ended up being the ECM! Expensive but it’s fixed!
Often the root cause is that the area around the ECMs is allowed to get packed up with dirt/mud and eventually the water gets into them and fries the guts. Some photos of ECMs that "invisible" apart from wiring disappearing under a blanket of mud are truly amazing.
Mine was dusty and looked like the connection had never been wet at all, but it is in a bad location!