Machine was running fine then i stalled going into a pile of dirt. Turned key off then back on and no lights or beeping. I have 12 volts at the battery wire on the ignition switch with the key in the off position, when I turn it to the on position the voltage drops to 3 to 4 volts.Checked the resistance between 3 and 4 pins on the ignition switch and got 0 ohms. Have 12.84 volts at the battery and the main circuit breaker in the engine compartment. Same at the start relay as well till the key is turned on and then it drops to 3 to 4 as well. Any ideas on what the problem is?
Lift the cab and check the main ground strap between the cab and the frame. Mine was not making a good connection and would do what yours is when I hit a bump.
I forgot to mention I cleaned all the grounds including that one. Even chased the threads in the hole that the bolt goes in for that strap. I had a few problems with starting it a few weeks ago where it would just click like the battery was dead then it stopped after I cleaned the connections at the battery. So many electronics on these things frustrating to find problems. Thanks for the suggestion though Mobiltech.
I would start following the positive supply and see where you start to lose voltage. Has to be bad connection at some point.
Been messing around and checking everything i can think of the last few days. If i leave the second relay in the right side of the engine compartment unplugged it will make the normal beeps and show the warning indicators for the parking brake and the seat bar. The seat bar will start flashing after a few seconds and still won't turn engine over. Anyone know what the second relay is for ?
You might want to check the battery connections again.... or at least put the meter probes directly to the actual battery terminals when trying to start, you have a high resistance connection somewhere in there. Are you able to turn on any lights or do they draw too much and bring the voltage down to 3-4 volts also? If you do have full voltage at the terminals and no drop when trying to start or turning on lights then move to the next connection in line and check it the same way.. there aren't that many connections on the main wires so it shouldn't take long to track it down
Would an electrical schematic help..? Post a Serial Number to get the correct one.
ZSA00485 is the SN.
Checked some more stuff today. Have a short somewhere for sure. Disconnect battery - terminal and I am getting 12.8V pretty much anywhere on frame with volt meter - lead on battery - terminal and the volt meter + lead on any non painted surface. Pulled each fuse individually and no change. I get change if i pull the alternator wire off of the main circuit breaker and the alternator goes to 0v. Also getting a 0V reading if I pull the 109P56 red wire, which feeds the fuse box under the seat, off of the power stud by the row of relays. Starting to go crazy at least i know now that it is a short. Running out of ideas.
A short that is dropping the voltage that far should show itself fairly quickly on smaller wires!.... like a matter of seconds or blowing fuses(after the fuse block) that means the short would be in front of any fuses or fusible links??? so why do you think it is a short??? still sounds like just a bad connection to me....
Here's the electrical schematic. I hope it is of some assistance.
Finally got it started today. Looks like it was a bad alternator that was causing a voltage spike on the machine which also took out the battery. Replaced the battery and the alternator and it fired right up.
I have a 2016 CAT 287D and when I turn the key (Not all the way but before cranking) I see all my gauges on the screen and everything lights up then when I turn the key everything flickers and no crank at all. I have to disconnect one of the battery terminals to stop the flickering because even with the key out it still flickers. This could eventually drain the battery. I replaced the alternator, Battery, Fuse box that was corroded it ran ok for a week and then the same issue. I found that there was a 15 amp fuse (blue one) in the cab fuse box next to the seat. I tested all the fuses and found a fuse called "Hydraulic solenoid" and was burnt out. I replaced it and now it turns on like a CHAMP!
All that for a blown fuse.....!! That's the 2nd time the Parts Cannon has been fired recently on a machine of this type only to eventually find that the root cause of the problem was nothing more than a blown fuse. Good diagnostics is never time wasted.