My 299D2 XHP was throwing code 723-2 and would run for awhile and then the parking brake would come on, bringing machine to a hault. I would turn the key off and then back on and it would run for about 15 -30 minutes and then parking brake would come on again. Got around to switching the (2) sensors to determine if I had a bad camshaft sensor and then it threw a code 723-8. Ran it for about 15 minutes and then my fuel pump went out. Replaced fuel pump, started the machine up and now the parking brake won't release and I'm still throwing code 723-8. Decided to switch the (2) sensors back to the original position and after doing that, I'm still throwing code 723-8 and parking brake won't release. My machine is down and wont move. Before I dive into this and check the wiring and connections to all cam sensors... (Question) is this normal that the parking brake won't release when throwing the code 723-8? I suspect I have a lose connection or a broken wire on (1 or 2) of the connectors at the engine block? Do you think I have (2) separate issues are is the parking brake (not releasing) caused by the code 723-8 Model - 2018 Cat 299D2 XHP SERIAL NUMBER: DX203342 Note: I had the same issues with the code 723-2 and 723-8 being throw last year, and my fuel pump went out. I changed the fuel pump and did'nt have any issues with it for 8 months until this started. (NOTE: I purchased a china pump on ebay to replace the old pump last year, and when the china pump went out I went ahead and purchased a new cat pump. Any help would be appreciated. Thanks!
See this thread. Same 723-8 Code (amongst others) and the test procedure is also there. Any electrical connector you pull apart I would suggest that you give both halves a good cleaning with aerosol contact cleaner before reconnecting. Multiple Event codes on 299d2 Getting 350-3 lift linkage voltage above normal, 723-2 engine speed sensor #2 data erratic intermittent or incorrect and 636-2 engine position sensor (I didn’t get a pic of this alert but think verbiage was the same as 723-2). I have searched the forum and found t shooting procedures posted by... HeavyEquipmentForums
Nigel, Thanks for your quick response We are in the process of running test and checking connection While doing this, the engine now wont start. Its a hard start. Would this cause the engine not to start. Thanks!
Possibly. I would suggest to see if anything changes after doing all the tests.
Unplug that sensor, should start just fine on one sensor. Will crank a bit longer before it fires. Then also try it vice versa
Ozarkag, (Still no Start) here is what I've tried so far. 1) Unplugged each sensoe (1) at a time. 2) Changed Fuel Filter 3) Verified we are getting fuel to engine by unhooking fuel line to engine to see if pump was pumping to engine. Plenty of fuel flow to engine. My Issues - Engine wont start - Hard Start - Parking Brake will not release (When it did start and engine running) - Throwing code ---723-8 Error Code - Engine position Sensor - Abnormal Frequency - Pulse Width or Period
What did the troubleshooting procedure for the 723-8 Code indicate.?
Nigel, 1) Can you please provide me a electrical schematic for my 299. I'm looking for the 1150Q Resistor on the engine harness. 2) I'm in the process of performing continuity checks on the Cam and Crank Sensors. - Going to unplug the sensor on the harness side and measure the voltage between pin 1 and 2 with the key turned on? Make sure to check if there is a reading of 5V. (Pink/Grey and Orange wire at the sensor harness plug.should read 5v with key on)
Certainly can. Check your messages.
I would like to order new plugs for the Sensors. Plug is marked PBT. Any suggestions on where to find and order them? Tried Ebay, but it came up many different plugs.
Nigel, Thanks again for your help. 1) Tested Resister 119.5 (Appears Good) 2) Tested Cam Shaft Sensor 5.0 (appears fine) but inspected wires and found (2) wires broken). Solder all (2) wires and reconnected. Engine started up (sputtered for a bit) and runs. Parking brake still will not release. Now throwing a new code 636-8 Engine Position Sensor Abnormal Width & Period. 3) I would like to order new plugs for the Sensors. Plug is marked PBT. Any suggestions on where to find and order them? Tried Ebay, but it came up many different plugs.
That's the other sensor, the upper one that senses camshaft speed. See attached. 636 & 723 Codes use the same diagnostic procedure. Question: When you removed the lower sensor to inspect did it have one or more shims (marked #3, 4, & 5) on it.?
Is that a Kubota engine.? I'm not sure what brand of connectors they use. Hopefully someone else knows but to further aid identification take a photo looking directly at the connector rather than from side-on. EDIT: The Cat Part Number is 371-0502 but they are likely to be expensive if they even sell them. I can't see it listed anywhere. TBH I would finish your diagnostics first because if the worst comes to the worst you might be in for a replacement engine wiring harness.
Yes, it is a Cat C3.8 engine / Kubota V3800-CR engine
In that case someone will have to help you on the brand of connector Kubota uses, because the one in your photo is not the Deutsch DT style that Cat uses on the rest of the machine. Just a shot in the darkl, but even though it says alternator on the description is this it.? Sit down when you look at the price....... Plug alternator Kubota Kubota 16678-6583-0 Plug alternator Kubota. -- € 45,20 || OMEGA PARTS omegaparts.net
Nigel, We just removed both sensors and switched the (2) cam and crank sensors. When we did this, the engine would not turn over, so we switched them back again and the engine starts, but parking brake, still will not release and the RPM Gauge on the monitor shows (FAULT)
The 3 different shims (.010", .020", & .040" thickness) are called out "as required" so no surprise there. I just wanted to check iif there was at least one in there. You can't swap those sensors willy nilly like that without re-shimming the clearance on the replacement one you install on the crankshaft. It might need more or less shims, but it is highly unlikely to work "as-is". I don't think that the fact the park brake is not releasing has anything to do with the engine Speed Sensor faults. If the engine starts and runs and is getting a good signal from at least one sensor it should be happy. It will however still show the other sensor as "faulted". I can't recall which of the two sensors provides the RPM signal to the dash display. That will be done inside the engine ECM. What Active Codes do you have now.?
1) Code- 636-8 "Engine Position Sensor Abnormal Width & Period" shows up on may screen, but when I go to the active codes screen, nothing is showing up 2) RPM Gauge shows "Fault" and does not read anything 3) Parking Brake will not release. - Engine Starts, but can't move machine, because parking brake is on.
Does the parking brake warning light go off when you press the switch.?
No the warning light stays on Could it be... - Seat switch, - Armrest Switch - Door switch. - Joy Stick- - Faulty Parking Brake Switch Events leading up to the Parking Brake Failure April 9th - Code 723-2 - Engine Speed Sensor #2 Alarm - I could run the machine, but ever 15-30 minutes parking brake would come on and stopping machine - I could shut machine off and then restart and cat would work until 15-30 minutes later parking brake would comeback on. Seemed like I could run longer if I ran the RPMS higher... April 25th - Code E878-3 - High Hydraulic Oil Temp Alarm - Took machine back to shop to power wash and clean radiator - Switched Cam and crank sensors Hooked up new attachment and then it started throwing code 723-8. drove it 10-15 minutes and fuel pump went out - took me a while to figure out it was my fuel pump. I would start the machine, and it would cavitate like I had a hydraulic leak. I tried to limp back to shop, and eventually, I figured out it was the fuel pump. Note: Parking brake came on several times during the 15 minute of driving. April 30th Installed New Fuel Pump - Engine started back up and parking brake would not release. Tried this 3-4 times until eventually, the engine would not start at all and parking brake would just stay on. Now Throwing 636-8 Engine Position Sensor Code. --- Also now showing Fault on RPM Gauge May 3 - Repaired connections on Cam Sensor wires. Connection - Cut, stripped, soldered wires 1/4" away from connector, plugged it back in. Engine Starts, but parking brake won't release. Still throwing 636-8 Engine Position Sensor Code. Swapped crank sensor and cam senso r and Engine would not turn over and parking brake still wont release. Switched sensors back and Engine will start, but parking brake still won't release.
On the face of it - no. The reason being that any type of malfunction of the 5 components you mention would generate its own Diagnostic Code (or Codes). Seat Switch - CID1190 Armrest Switch - CID1628 Door Switch - CID2471 Joystick - could be any of CID2474/75/76/77 Park brake switch - CID0070
If you still have the 636-8 Code then on the face of it the sensor/wiring relating to the cam sensor is still a problem. See my earlier somment regarding the engine wiring harness. Anecdotal information here on HEF is that failure of that particular harness is not an unkown phenomenon.
Update Never could understand why the active codes where not showing up on my Active Screen, in the last few weeks. The Active screen would be blank and the logged screen would show the old codes, but not the active code that would be displayed at start up. The Active Screen has been Blank this past few weeks. I just rebooted the Monitor and now it is showing the following codes as active 636-8 - Engine Position Sensor - Abnormal Frequency Pulse Width or Period (Yellow) 190-2 - ACU - Engine Speed Sensor Data Eratic Intermittent or incorrect (Green) 3700-3 - Machine - Loader Bucket Voltage Above Normal (Green)
Nigel, The attached pictures #1  for reference for the Cam Sensor (for me and others). It is a Denso, Japan 3 pin connector. (I need to find a place that I can purchase the connectors and pins. I have the tools to install the pins - see 3rd attachment. I agree that the issue is still the sensor/wiring relating to the cam sensor. so, I need to find the pins or new connectors. I also wanted to note, 1) The bolt hole on the upper Cam Sensor plastic bracket is cracked. 2) The threaded bolt hole in the engine block on the lower Crank Sensor, appears stripped. the bolt holds the sensor in tight, but if you tighten it up, it will slip. Just wanted to mention this, in case this could be a concern.
Reading your post #22 above with the timeline of Codes, action taken, etc, I've cherry-picked your text and my comments are as follows: - April 9th - "Code 723-2 - Engine Speed Sensor #2." April 25th - "Took machine back to shop to power wash and clean radiator - Switched Cam and crank sensors. Hooked up new attachment and then it started throwing code 723-8." 723-2 (Data Erratic, Intermittent, or Incorrect ) and 723-8 (Abnormal Frequency, Pulse Width, or Period) are pretty much the same thing. The ECM is receiving "inconsistent data" from the sensor in other words. The troubleshooting procedure for both is the same one I posted earlier. Interesting to note that the Code stayed on the same sensor despite the fact the sensors were physically switched. This gives the impression that the sensors might not be the issue. Getting water into the sensor connectors from the pressure washing could be related to this. April 30th - "Now Throwing 636-8 Engine Position Sensor Code. - Also now showing "Fault" on RPM Gauge." Confirmed that the RPM signal is taken from the camshaft position sensor. A dodgy signal will cause no RPM reading on the display. May 3 - "Engine Starts, but parking brake won't release. Still throwing 636-8 Engine Position Sensor Code. Swapped crank sensor and cam sensor and Engine would not turn over and parking brake still wont release. Switched sensors back and Engine will start, but parking brake still won't release." So by my count you have switched sensors 3 times. Once on Arpil 25 and twice on May 3. Is that correct.? If it is then it appears as though they are still in the "wrong" holes from where they were before all this kicked off prior to April 9. My suggestions: - 1. Unplug both main ECM wiring connectors J1 & J2 plus both speed sensors and test the following wires on the engine wiring harness for continuity between the engine ECM and the 3-pin connectors on the sensors. Y733 Purple, 993 Yellow, & 997 Orange (crankshaft sensor) and 709 Orange, J864 Grey, & F732 Pink (camshaft sensor). Testing the resistance using a multimeter is NOT recommended. Instead make a temporary connection from one end of a particular wire to machine frame ground and apply battery+ voltage to the other end via a 5A test light. The reason for this is simple. A wire that is damaged internally and "hanging on by a thread" without showing any external damage may pass a DMM resistance test but it won't pass 5A. 2. Give the male/female connectors of the ECM and both sensors a good dose of aerosol contact cleaner and dry with compressed air before reassembling.
Nigel, Yes, the Sensors have been switched at least 3 times in the past month. I will do the above testing on Monday, when I have some additional help. I Any suggestions, on why the parking brake will not release. I had read on a another which had a similar issue on a 299, and it is seemed like replacing two sets of wire harnesses from the right side speed sensor, may have solved the issue. CAT 299D won't move HeavyEquipmentForums Thanks again!
I remember that one, but the symptoms were different AND once the owner updated to the same Advanced LCD panel that you already have- it had Codes for joystick/speed sensors (can't remember which offhand) - You don't. Quote - I can move about 6 inches and then the parking light comes on and it won't move anymore. If I restart it, the same thing happens." - Unquote.
For these sensor plugs try ballengermotorsports.com Probably have to match up by number of terminals (2) brand, (denso) and images.
ozarkag , Thanks for the information, I'll call them up tomorrow to see if they can match the plug.
If you take photos place a ruler alongside the connector to give an idea of scale.
For the sensor plugs consider a complete engine harness. Last one I changed was something like less than $150 and may fix your problem any way with a new harness. This only changes half the connector though
Agreed. See Post #15 on Page 1. Failure of the engine harness is not an unknown phenomenon.
Attached are pictures of the plug for sensor - Denso
Dimension of sensor plug - Denso
Pictures of pin for sensor plug (Stamped E 14) Approx 5/8" Long
Approx Diameter Width - 5/64" or 1.42mm Approx Length - 5/8" or 16.50 mm Length I believe the part number is Manufacturer: Sumitomo 8240-0182 TS Series (Female) Manufacturer: Sumitomo 8230-4878 TS Series (Male)
Did you consider this suggestion.? With reference to the "other half" of the connector that's on the sensor anyway. So if you replace a sensor you get that half.
Nigel, I'm not sure where to purchase an aftermarket harness, and I was thinking the Cat harness was about $1000. Also I would need to figure out how to install the harness and secure it to the engine. Cat must run the wires before the engine is installed.
I am simply repeating the quote above by @Tree Mulcher where he states "Last one I changed was something like less than $150". I would not have thought it is available from any other source apart from OEM. Price up a 441-4796 Harness Assembly at your dealer. What do you have to lose.?
Wow that is pricy. I didn't pay that much. Last one I changed was T4I which may explain the difference. On the last one I changed there were several places on the harness that were worn through but had not caused issues yet. Have you already gone over the harness in detail looking for wear areas? You may have done this and I just missed it.
Especially with that code I would not fool around too long without changing the harness. Doesn't need to be a visible problem, just enough to cause "noise". The Cat skidsteer engine harness is orders of magnitude easier to change than the the Kubota version on an SLVL95 or takeuchi TL12.
Especially with the history of internal failures of the engine wiring harness it is worth serious consideration, despite the price tag. There are many documented cases on this forum of people up to the level of dealers firing the Parts Cannon at everything BUT the engine wiring harness in an attempt to fix a problem, usually related to the fuel system. It must be noted that at the end of the day in every case it was conclusively proved that the harness was the root cause of the issue. Thiking out loud is it possible to temporarilty bypass the harness for the speed sensor wiring and run wires direct from the main harness connector to the sensors.? That might shed light on the issue.
I had a very similar experience, I ended up having to replace both speed sensors on the left and right side. Apparenlty someone had cut both of them, probably debris. Once I replaced them I also sleeved them and replaced all the hydralic cables while I was there and wrapped them as well. the speed sensors are a pain to get to as well if you don't pull the hydralic cables off.
Different sensors though. Your problem was with the machine ground speed sensors, the OP’s problem is with the engine speed sensors.
Just bought new pins (from Cat) and installed them this morning on both sensors. Now the engine will not start. I asked my employee if he was 110% sure he had the wiring correct and he came back, the bottom one is 110% , but the top he was only 75%. So, I guess I need the correct pin wiring to the Crank and Speed Sensors. would anyone know the correct wiring. Nigel, I'll look into making a jumper, but will still need the wiring diagram. I think you sent this to me earlier. I'll look back at the Electrical diagrams you sent.
Check your messages. I sent the complete electrical schematic to you on May 3rd. That will contain all the information you require to check the sensor wiring and/or fabricate a jumper.
I believe he had one of the wires on the upper Cam Sensor switched. I believe this is the correct wiring. Left Picture is the Upper Crank Sensor Right Picture is the lower Engine Speed Sensor Engine still will not start. I guess we will build a Jumper....
Which photo is which sensor.? Also do the three wires have any visible numbers on them.? You will need to relate the wire positions to the Pin Numbers on the respective engine wire harness plug. The numbers should be moulded into the body of each plug.
We actual found pictures of the plug that was taken a week ago with the correct wiring. So, I'm pretty sure it is wired correct, but, I'll verify. We have talked to Cat, and they said the first thing they would do is install a new harness. My employee wants to buy a sensor, but I'm really not wanting to just start buying and installing parts, as the dealer will not take returns. I'm already afraid the tech will do the same thing... Before, I call my local dealer to send a Cat Tech to the site, I would like to make a jumper, but have a few questions. 1) Is this the correct connection under the cab (See Picture #1) 2) Where do I buy some spoons to fit these pins? Are spoons generic and fit most pins?
Nope. Again you have the electrical schematic. It clearly shows the cam & crank speed sensors are wired direct to the Engine ECM (mounted in the LH side of the engine compartment) with no intermediate connectors.
Update: A Big Thanks to Nige and to the other forum members that made comments. Tested the the Camshaft Sensor wires back to the Engine ECM Plug. Found that the Pink (Signal) and Grey (Ground) wires where shorted somewhere in the line. Made a New Jumper and ran (2) wires from the Camshaft Sensor Plug and back to the ECM Plug. Started Skidsteer back up and the Parking Brake released and the RPM Fault has cleared. The RPM Gauge is now working properly. After being out of commission for over 3 weeks, the Skidsteer is working again. The only issue now is that the code below is still active 636-8 Engine Position Sensor Abnormal Frequency Pulse Width or Period Thanks again!
Did you twist and shield your new wires? Speed sensor wires are typically twisted pair to reduce noise on the signal.
Stick a new engine harness on it and have done with it...........
ozarkag, What I had available at the time was a 18 gauge solid copper wire that was ran straight (no twisted). We ran the jumper, first to verify that was the issue. I can try twisting the wires next week or even buying new wire. Nige, we may end up replacing the entire harness next. Installing the harness looked like a real chore to access all the plugs. Not sure it was something we could accomplish?
Sure it is something you can accomplish if you do it carefully. Lots of photos would help. If you think the harness is expensive (and I don’t disagree) think how much the 3 weeks (+ongoing) downtime has cost you so far…….