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CAT 299D2 XHP (2018 build) fault code: 350-3

Kaptain007 · 2023-05-16 10:01

I just got a new delivery of a CAT 299D2 XHP (2018 build) bought from an auction. I started the machine, and the display showed a yellow warning message "350-3 Machine" - "Lift Linkage Position Sensor Voltage Above Normal." This message is in the "Diagnostic Event." I checked under "Active Event," and it says "No Active Events". Machine Serial Number: DX202439 I checked the parts manual, and the CAT part number of this Lift Linkage Position Sensor seems to be: 539-6653 Machine status: Now, my questions are: 1) How many such "Lift Linkage Position Sensors" are on a D2 machine, one or two? 2) I understand this could be caused by any one of the following a) a bad position sensor, b) a wiring harness short, c) wring harness open, d) a bad connector, e) other, including bad ECU. Which is the most likely cause? 3) How difficult and what are the procedures to take off this sensor for testing, assuming there is only one such sensor.

Replies32
  1. #1Nige2023-05-16 13:04

    1) Only one sensor. 2) Possibilities in order - wiring fault, bad sensor, ECM. 3) Carry out the attached procedure. The sensor does not need to be physically removed. (The procedure ought to be in the Troubleshooting section of your service manual.

  2. #2Kaptain0072023-05-16 13:06

    I further checked the issue this morning. This is what I found: 1) Only one such Lift Linkage Position Sensor" on the 299D2 XHP. It's located on the mid-rear right-hand side lift arm. Accessible from outside the cab. There is no visible wiring damage. 2) On turning the ignition key and starting the engine, the sequence of the messages shows as follows a) display shows "CAT" logo b) display shows "Welcome." c) display shows "This value could not be adjusted" (without saying what value). d) display shows "350-3 Machine, Lift Linkage Position Sensor Voltage Above Normal". And this message doesn't automatically go away until the operator press the first right button. Then it shows the normal screen with a yellow LED flashing. I am looking into this further using multimeter to check voltage and connectivity.

  3. #3Nige2023-05-16 13:29

    Just follow the troublshooting procedure step by step as listed.

  4. #4Brian G2024-07-29 18:30

    Same issue found pinched harness right beside lift frame on right side repaired harness and replaced the f8 fuse inside fuse box in cab... done code gone along with a few more on that circuit. Thanks Nige for the schematic

  5. #5CM19952024-07-29 18:54

    Welcome to the Forums BG! Glad to have you.

  6. #6montanaidol2025-02-02 20:40

    I’m having a difficult time with this code. My harness got caught on a hydraulic line and at the connection in the arm for the sensor it pulled the connector apart I have plugged the connector back in and the code as become intermittent where if you turn the machine off and start it again the code with disappear for a variable amount of time. Sometimes it will come back as soon as you move the lift arm controls sometimes it will stay off for 5-10 minutes of operation. I don’t believe it would be ECM related as it did damage the connector in the arm but I have been able to keep the connector plugged in. I can’t use cat et to help with the repair I was only able to borrow one of the local service truck guys computers.

  7. #7montanaidol2025-02-02 20:44

    I’m considering straight wiring and getting rid of the connector. Is this a bad idea on this new equipment?(this is my first machine that’s newer than 2005)

  8. #8Nige2025-02-02 21:06

    Post a photo of the damaged connector please.

  9. #9montanaidol2025-02-04 08:32

    The clip to hold the connector together is what is broken

  10. #10montanaidol2025-02-04 08:58

    This is the other side of same connector

  11. #11Nige2025-02-04 09:18

    Those connectors are the Deutsch DT series. Each half is available as a separate spare part. You could easily buy a replacement receptacle (female half connector) or plug (male half connector), unpin the wires from the existing connector and install them into the replacement. It would be at most a 5-minute job because you will not need to crimp any pins/sockets on to the wires, so far less work than attempting to hard-wire the connection. Wire orientation in the connector is critical so I would suggest that you swap the wires from the old to new connector one at a time. See this LINK for an illustrative "how to" video. Removing the green internal wedge from a 3-pin receptacle is simple and only requires a pair of needle-nose pliers. Removing the wedge from a 3-pin plug only requires a small flat-blade screwdriver. The Cat Part Number for the receptacle is 171-0596, Deutsch P/N DT04-3P-E004. For the plug (male half) the P/N is 155-2260, Deutsch P/N DT06-3S-E004. BTW the colour of the body makes no difference. Black or grey they are all interchangeable. Deutsch DT Series 3-Way Connectors Deutsch DT Series 3-Way Connectors feature rectangular housing with silicone rubber seals and are rated at 13 amps continuous. www.deutschconnector.com

  12. #12HarleyHappy2025-02-05 08:45

    Keep it original as you can, for as long as you can. It’s one thing to Mickey Mouse a 30 year old machine and it’s another to butcher a wiring run because the clip for the connector broke. You can get creative with a couple of zip ties, unless it’s something that comes apart frequently, then you de pin it and replace the housing.

  13. #13Nige2025-02-05 09:42

    Or you can spend $10 and buy a new connector half and fix it the right way.

  14. #14TVA2025-02-05 09:48

    My local CAT dealer always have every little piece of DT. Bu most of the times you got to know CAT part number for what you need. Unless you talk to one of the “old timers”.

  15. #15Nige2025-02-05 09:52

    Cat Special Instruction REHS0970 has all the answers. Years ago it also had the Deutsch Part Numbers but in the latest version they seem to have disappeared.

  16. #16TVA2025-02-05 09:59

    Everything gets spoiled, with time.

  17. #17TVA2025-02-05 11:44

    Mickey Mouthing will bite you bad, later on, if you’d have to come back to the same area of the machine. It’s been thousands of times for me, trying to make any kinda sense on something that was rigged before. It takes 3-5 times longer just to wrap your head around to figure things out. As if kept close to original and having right documentation - would be “a breeze”.

  18. #18HarleyHappy2025-02-05 22:22

    Anyone that fixes things for a living, deal with the little things like that, everyday. It gives us something to whine about every evening, when were done working.

  19. #19montanaidol2025-02-14 22:16

    Alright so I replaced both of the connectors and the the problem is still there so I used the pdf that Nige sent further up and and have determined that the the ground BK200 is ground and voltage supply YL117 has 12.7 volts and are working the signal wire is at 4.95 volts. However when I jumped the signal wire to ground wire the light didn’t go out according to the pdf you go straight to checking the wires for poor connection I have check everything that can be visually inspected I’m kinda at a loss here where can I go next? I don’t have a budget to take this thing to cat or to pay them to come out.

  20. #20Nige2025-02-14 22:31

    Did you measure that voltage with the sensor connected.? Note there are different parts to Step 1, it's not just measuring the voltage at the sensor. Effectively you have to compare the voltage across the battery terminals with the voltage between the batt+ terminal and a known good frame ground as well as measuring the voltage at the connector for the sensor.

  21. #21montanaidol2025-02-14 22:54

    I used a power probe to check voltage on the power wire and to test the ground. I did check the power and ground with the sensor connected but I don’t have one of the fancy probes and couldn’t get my pin probe to connect with the signal side of the wire while it was connected so I unplugged the sensor and checked that wires reading unplugged. When you say a known good frame ground is that implying that I should be testing to the negative cable off the battery instead of the negative wire in the harness and would that be the same for the test step 2 for grounding the signal wire? Ps I really appreciate your assistance

  22. #22Nige2025-02-14 23:05

    I would do three tests with the expectation that all three would produce exactly the same result. 1. Across the battery terminals. 2. From the positive terminal of the battery to any frame ground EXCEPT where the negative battery cable connects to, if you get my drift. 3. Between 117-YL and 200-BK at the sensor connector with the sensor remaining connected to the machine harness. So what were your results for Step 2 when you install a jumper between the sensor signal wire and machine frame ground (note NOT the ground wire at the sensor connector).? Does the Diagnostic Code change from 350-3 to 350-4.? Does your meter have the capability to measure duty cycle.?

  23. #23montanaidol2025-02-14 23:27

    I’ll run those checks tomorrow for the wires and when I jumped I was under the impression that the light would entirely disappear not that the code would change. If all that is going to happen is the code change I have no way to determine what’s going on I don’t have access to a laptop with ET all the time only when I can borrow one of the local service truck guys. I know it measures hz I’m not sure how to use that to measure duty cycle on dc/12volt systems or if that even possible I’m more of a household electrical guy. I can fix some basic electrical issues but this is all a bit out of my wheelhouse.

  24. #24Nige2025-02-15 08:20

    Generally if a meter has the capability then if you press the Hz button once the Hz icon will show in the display window. Press the Hz button twice and the icon on the display will change from Hz to %. If it does that then it will measure duty cycle. Sorry I thought your machine has the Advanced Display on it where you could read the Codes direct. There may still be a chance though. Post a photo of the warning panel in the upper RH corner of the cab.

  25. #25MontDavo2026-02-20 22:11

    299D3XE BX904735. I also had the 350-3 error. I followed the troubleshooting up to step 4 "check the signal at sensor". I pulled the yellow wire C530 from harness and then plugged harness back together and probed the C & B on the sensor side. I have a Fluke 179 meter and it says it'll work for PWM by going to DC voltage and hitting the yellow bar on meter to measure. All I get are 000 on screen. When I move the arm on the sensor nothing changes. My old school thought is the sensor is no more than a rheostat or volume control per se so I also tried testing for resistance change from the ground to signal return and nothing. When powered up and checking from wire 200 to C530 I get 4.97 but it will not change when moving arm. I'm thinking the Lift sensor took a dump. THOUGHTS?

  26. #26Nige2026-02-20 22:28

    The sensor output signal is PWM. You will require a multimeter capable of measuring duty cycle (in %). The Fluke 179 is not capable of doing that as far as I can see from the operation manual.

  27. #27Nige2026-02-20 22:41

    That’s the pull-up voltage generated inside the ECM and used to test the integrity of the signal wire. Nothing to do with the sensor signal.

  28. #28MontDavo2026-02-21 10:35

    Thanks Nige. I appreciate your documents. Trying to get this from CAT is impossible. What's your thoughts on the Fluke 87V for duty %.

  29. #29Nige2026-02-21 10:49

    That’s what I use. Unless there is something wrong with a particular meter it should do the job fine.

  30. #30MontDavo2026-02-26 12:53
  31. #31MontDavo2026-02-26 12:55

    Thought I'd update my 350-3 error code. After testing and isolation to the sensor I figured I'd look into sensor and see what failed. Here you go. Trying to get the drift pin out Isa becoming a issue now.

  32. #32Nige2026-02-26 13:25

    Good old "water ingress". Electronics don't like it.