when i took off the fuel injector pump off there was one 2 mm shim i see you can have up to 9 mm shim dose any one know how many mm is standard
the shim stays with the block, changing it to a different one will change the injection timing there is NO standard shim.it was determined at the factory by what it needed. If you lost it and know how you can spill time it. which determines spill cut on the helix this is where fuel stops flowing into the pump #1 bore and injection will start to commence. DONT mess with it unless you know how
I can explain how to spill time it if needed
that would be great`
ok so as I said before the shim that you took as goes back in ....unless there is a problem. now the injection pump on this machine is Cassette type it is basically a small in line injection pump.so you want it to start injecting at the correct place in the engine rotation on the bottom of these little pumps are 4 rollers that go against a cam that you will see if you look in the rectangle hole from where the pump was removed .each of these rollers is connected to a plunger with a helix cut into it .these plungers are connected to a linkage that is connected to the governor so according to engine load they will turn in there bores revealing more or less of the helix to change the fuel delivery.....so to meet the factory spec the bores of the injection pump need to start filling at the correct time and at the end of filling when injection commences. so by adding/taking away shims you will change the cut of point either making it happen earlier or later. you want it to happen where the designer of the engine intended it. so first thing is find the timing graduation marks on the flywheel. Find what degrees rotation is spill cut off supposed to happen (this is when the filling of the fuel port ends and injection is beginning its cycle.) now you have that information you ready to check it. with the fuel pump and shim installed and the fuel lines installed bar #1 turn on the key depending where you are in the rotation You have to turn the engine somehow screwdriver on flywheel or socket on crank watch the fuel crest from the #1 pump section turn SLOWlly at some point it will stop (spill cut off) now look at the degrees on the fly wheel and compare to factory spec add or remove shims accordingly to get it right on. all the other pump segments will follow suit of the #1. MUCH older machine from back in the day required the use of a old injector line in a swan neck shape cut at a 45deg angle at the base also remove the delivery valve from the #1 watch fuel flow slowly turn until its just drips then finally stops again check flywheel degrees adjust as needed if you engine worked well before removing the pump and shim then leave it alone "don't fix what's not broken biggest things to check on these little pumps in hold the pump up and see if the rack falls under its own weight or is at least very smooth in its operation not smooth operation could indicate a damaged plunger. I cant tell you the Degrees for the cut off as I no longer have SIS so call your dealer or there seems to be people on here with access....all the questions I try and answer on here are from doing. hope this gives you a fair description of what it is and how to do it. remember making changes here could potentially damage your engine if not done correctly
Some info on that pump in here... cat 303CR Injector pump R + R I checked through posts and can't find injector pump timing before and after removal. A link or help would be appreciated. HeavyEquipmentForums