Newbie question here, I have to repair some broke bolts in the swing gear and need to pull the car body out from under the cab. I was going to remove the sun gear "axle" some call it from the final drive but the outside cover is held in place with a snap ring. Any tricks of the trade that would help? I have pried around on it some and looked for the end with no luck. Now thinking I may remove the hyd. motor instead. Also reading another post on here mentioned the problem of positioning the button on the sun gear and not ending up in the gears. Will removing the motor let the tracks freewheel? S/N FJX03280 Thanks for any help
I would find a way to just drag it out. Taking the finals apart is just asking for trouble. Don't do it. You could always take the tracks off I dig a swing circle bearing in a 324D. Just dragged it out and dragged it back, on gravel, of course, since it was steel grousers. And I had another excavator available, to drag with.
I have steel tracks as well but not sure my tractor would drag it. I'm not sure but I thought removing the axle as long as I put the cover back on wouldn't cause a problem with the gears. Since the cover looks to be difficult to remove I was thinking removing the motor would do the same thing. Am I missing something?
Wayne, maybe hold off on removing that propel motor. Lets find a parts diagram and or device manual showing what that snap ring looks like and go from there.
I looked into sis but I'm not an expert. The snap ring that I see on the drawing gives a part no 435-0798. It does not show what it looks like to see if its one piece. There must be someone here that knows what kind it is and how to remove it.
From the service manual. Is this any help.? TBH looking at the way the travel motor is built there is no way I would consider going into that assembly just to get the carbody to roll if I was not forced to. Find the split in ring (50) and rotate the ring until the split reaches one of the plug locations in cover (49). Pry up the end of the ring (50) and proceed to feed it in a circular fashion until it can be completely removed. Remove cover (49).
Thanks Nige good Info that Cat Technical couldn't even tell me. In fact they were the ones that suggested I may remove the motor if I cant get the cover off. What do you think about heymccall suggestion to just drag it out? I'm on gravel with steel tracks. I watched a video on final drive rebuild and it looks like the gear cluster just lifts out once the cover is removed. I would remove the sun gear and put the cover back on with ring partially installed is that the correct way to keep the planetary gears from causing a problem. Is it difficult to get the button on the end of the sun gear to stay in place when assembling in the field on the machine? Sorry for all the questions but this is all new to me.
Without knowing what resources you have available it's dififcult to offer suggestions as to the best way to get the carbody out from under the swing bearing. If you wanted to drag it why not put some sheets of plywood on the ground then run the machine over the top of them. The tracks will slide far easier on wood than they will on gravel.
I will try that, I have some used 2x6 x 20' lumber
Not sure if I should start a new thread on this question but hopefully it will get seen here. Would appreciate if Nige could weigh in on this or anyone else that has an opinion. I got all the broke bolts in the swing gear replaced and the machine is back together. I'm now thinking I should have replaced the bearing. I only bought this to clear some land and maybe put 5 or 600 hrs on it before reselling. If I was working it to make money replacing the bearing would have been a no brainer. Anyway onto the details: With a dial indicator zeroed at the front of the bearing 0 deg. and using the boom to raise the tracks off the ground 0.100 movement repeating the steps at 90 deg. 0.060, 180 deg. 0.046 and at 270 deg. 0.085. Will operating the machine like this cause the bolts to break again? What is the potential to damage the Swing Drive or the gear on the drive. Right now the gear teeth on the inner race and on the drive look perfect. I sure don't want to damage the swing drive but also don't want to replace the bearing if these measurements are acceptable. The Bearing new from Cat is $4,000 I have since found several places online that will refurb the bearing Kaydon bearing Messinger bearing and Texasbearing services are a few. Does anyone have experience on any of these or others? This is a 2015 with only 1800 hrs if that means anything. Thanks Wayne
I worked for Motion Industries for 40 years. We have used Messinger and Kaydon both to rebuild large bearings. They both do top notch work.
Make sure you clean that groove out real good, makes it easier to get it apart.
I wasn't planning on disassembling the bearing and wouldn't have anyway of doing anything other than replacing the balls and spacers if that and don't think that is all it would need. I'm only guessing but if they regrind the races do they go back with larger balls? I'm hoping that someone will weigh in on the amount of movement and if the bearing should be replaced to keep from damaging other items.
I didn't mean the bearing I was taking about the finals, the groove where the cover sits with the retaining ring can get all crusted up and make it hard to remove if you're going to go that route.
Here's the procedure to measure the swing bearing movement on your machine. From the numbers you posted above it appears that you are still within the maximum allowable. It might pay you to repeat the measurements following the procedural instructions and see what results it gives you.
Oh Ok, I guess I lost track of the start of this post. Your answer was right on for the original question. I was able to drag the carbody out with my tractor as Nige suggested.
Ignore the + or minus reading of the dial indicator. The way I read it is that if one indicator registers 0.010 movement and the other registers 0.040 then your total movement is 0.050. Yes you are. First rotate the upper structure 3 times one way then rotate it 3 times in the opposite direction and stop it at the same spot.
Nige I did the procedure you sent for vertical movement and the average was 0.152 or 3.8mm. Well outside the service limit of 2.5. Could this have led to the bolts failing? That and the fact the update was never done to inspect and re-torque the bolts. It looks like I will be tearing it back down and replacing the bearing. The sad part is I knew I should but couldn't get past the price for new OEM part. I found a aftermarket bearing from ConEquip for a little over 1/2 the cost. Do you know anything about them or other aftermarket suppliers? I didn't have any luck on finding someone that would refurb my bearing.
The easiest way of free wheeling any track machine with hydrostatic drive with out opening up gearbox's or uncoupling line is to remove the bolts on the sprockets but leave the tracks intact. This allows the sprockets to slip on the hubs. Easy as.
I'm sorry I have no experience regarding aftermarket parts quality. Maybe someone else can offer an opinion.?