I'm going to have to put a new rear main seal in a cat 3126 sometime in the near future. When I get tired of it puking oil on the ground. A guy local to me has this on Craigslist- is this the only tool I need, or do I need another adapter? Seller states that it does 3126- but I don't know. I have a seal install tool for a 3208, I guess I should look and see what part # it is. https://springfield.craigslist.org/tls/d/mansfield-cat-rear-main-installer-kit/7096502668.html
The tool required for rear crankshaft seal installation on a 3126 is a 1U-7598 if that helps.
Thanks nige- he lists part # 1u-7598 in his ad, so this is the right tool then. Thank you. The seller wants $250 for it, and says its $400 from the CAT store, does that price correspond with your cat pricing?
New price seems to be closer to $500 (says call dealer for pricing but I can somewhat get around that). The tool is manufactured for Cat by OTC. Also I've found new genuine ones offered for sale at up to $875, so provided it's complete I'd say it's appears to be a good deal. 1U-7598 comprises of: - 9S-8858 Nut Assembly 1U-7594 Installer 1U-7597 Sleeve Ring 1U-7596 Bolt 132-8772 Locator Assembly
I just use a piece of wood and a rock.
I totally figured you for a wood-and-rock guy when it comes to seal installs....
Normally it's rock, paper, scissors.
Yeah, but this is a C A T cat (that's seee ayyee tee if you can't spell, or ceyate if you have a limited alphabet). Its not one of those cummins or detroitian contraptions. It needs a special tool and special seal, dial indicated to the thousandths of crank and flywheel housing. 4.5 ounces of CAT branded grease applied and installed to the twelve page procedure: outlined in SIS system and confirmed for correct installation via CAT ET bluetooth wireless satellite interwebs. And don't give me no lies about rock and wood, let alone rock paper scissors. I know you're lying, not cause your lips are moving. I knows you lying- cause there ain't no wood in eastern oregon, cause there ain't no trees. And you ain't had no scissors since your momma caught you running with them. All you gots is rock rock rock, and if I was there I'd beat you with paper paper paper-- Every Single Time. Have a good week Truck Shop, and keep the covid fairy away.
I've make a variety of special removal and install tooling mostly because I can't find what I need for older equipment. Didn't realize it cost that much new. You may want to get a quote from a local machinist if you can't find it used. Probably could save some money. My friend is a marine mechanic and I've make quite a few pullers and install tooling for him over the years. He saved a lot and I made some decent money. Steve
CO you need to reseal a 3406/3408 with a retarder. Why what you have there is child's play. Now as far as trees you need to get out of misery and travel west young man, go west young man. And lies, that's a dispatcher/load broker. Paper,paper,paper-I bet you don't even know what a bingo card is. Have a good week CO, If there is one to have in this environment.
Below is a certified cat 3126 seal installing tool # 2B-4859, runs about $19.95 as advertised on TV.
Down load from Dreamstime.com? I knew you would have to get anything shipped in. Do they even actually send you the item? Or do they just inject it into your subconscious during REM stage? Then it would be like most of my tools- I think I own them but actually can't find them.
Now the truth is CO ever good mechanic has a tool box full of items like that. Screw drivers become punches and phony chisels, hammers -a club to mash your fingers with, sockets that are spun out, wrenches bent to wrap around corners just waiting to nail you. the list goes on. You better get one of those your going to dream about it all night now, you will wake in a cold sweat racing to order it.
Well I've been limping along with my rear main leak, but its coming apart next week. Seal is here, tool is purchased. Any chance there is a procedure for installing this seal and what order I need to put the little parts in? I can probably figure it out, but I also probably need all the help I can get. Its got a allison trans behind it in a Grove tms 500 truck crane. We're moving the engine ahead for access - thinking its easier than removing all the hyd. pumps and lines that are mounted to the trans, and there's more room ahead than back. Engine is a 2002 3126E Serial # CKM 39839 Rear main seal installation. Anybody with SIS got a page or picture or two for the install?
Is this what you're looking for..?
Thank you.
So you have been a environmentalist worst nightmare, driving around town cruising the streets in your truck crane leaving pools of oil for grannies to slip and fall poisoning dogs and cats. Shame on you.
Ha- I'm the ultimate environmentalist/ greenie. I take what was in the ground, use it for a little while, and return it right back to the ground for future generations. I'm a one man global warming initiative. Forget the Paris greenhouse treaty. I'm a charter member of LEAPER (leaking engines and poor equipment runners). We're saving the planet while everyone else is just talking about it.
I looked up leaper [your the only member, also the president, treasurer, sargent of arms-your own arms].
Well most of the members were in out original group LEAKER (lousy engines and krappy equipment runners) but we got a bad reputation on facebook for marking our territory, everyone got put on a gov't watchlist, and it- well it just all went downhill from there. If you'd like to join, we are accepting new members. PM me for a address, and I'll get you the signature hat and mask. Memberships are a one time annual fee of $500, renewed quarterly. There's a gold upper tier for members in good standing. Their dues are bi-monthly (not the kind of bi you're thinking of either). We accept cash or tesla stock.
Well that put me out of the running, I'm flat broke and cards are full up-----------do you have any long term credit options?
you can charge that to dust & let the rain settle it.
Well we have a lot of dust around here.
may take a while to get it paid then
But it's going to rain tonight starting at 11:00 p.m.
Mud gets nasty then goes back to dust there!
So did it rain? Inquiring minds want to know.
From 11:00 to 4:00 a.m. Actually the biggest reason for dust is all the dry land wheat. Top soil depth in the Pullman area can run 300' down, around my house it's about 20'.
Any progress yet on changing that seal?
No progress, I had to play tire man this afternoon. Didn't have time to change to my mechanic hat. Had to get the tires on the rebel, so I can get the rebel inspected, so I can go to the dmv and get plates and the title transferred, then I can get the insurance on it, then I can get my beautiful bride off my *** for not having any of those things done yet, while I'm riding it all over. Priorities truck shop. A man's got to know his limitations.
eastwood.
I did one years ago i know there were special tools to do this but we didnt have them. I was scared it would be a disaster but i got lucky.
Rear main is in, damaged bell housing replaced. Engine reinstalled. Engine will crank starter over but it is not trying to fire. i.e. no smoke at all in exhaust like its getting fuel. I do have fuel at filter. I think the tach sender unit was damaged. Its mounted to the bellhousing and gets a signal from the starter ring gear. I get no Ohms on it when checking for resistance. Sent Jim to the Cat house. They gave him a new sender unit, but instead of 3/4" fine thread, its only 5/8". Cat parts man says the 3/4" isn't available. Of course the new 5/8" has "NON-RETURNABLE" on the bag. Is the cat parts man just dumb and can't find the right tach sender unit? Will the tach sender unit tell the ecm not to give fuel i.e. engine isn't turning don't give it fuel? I have no computer to hook to the engine to see what it is doing. I don't know if the tach sender is only for the gauge, or it is linked with ecm. First picture has new sender and old sender. Bag is part # that mother Cat came up with for my sender. Just to recap- engine is a 2002 3126e Serial #CKM 39839
What I'm thinking of doing is having a bushing made 3/4" fine SAE thread on the OD, and 5/8" dia SAE on the ID and screw the new sender unit into that.
100% correct and its rampant here lately.
The speed/timing sensors (2 of them - circled) on this engine are allegedly mounted on the front LH side of the timing cover.They are what give the "engine rotating" signal to the ECM What the Hall Effect sensor on the bellhousing does I have no idea. It is not listed in the Parts Manual. It may not even be a Cat part. I have an idea and just need some time to run it down - stay tuned.
Don't think so in this case. The 318-1181 is the only screw-in speed sensor listed for ANY model of 3126E. Although that said the parts guy should've looked at the new and the old and said "that's not right".
Jim said he looked at it, said "that's not right, but its all that is available". Thanks guys, I'll look into the bushing solution today, and I'm not sure that the tach sender is the "no fuel" issue. I may need a cat man to hook into the crane to see what the ecm is seeing, and where we've pulled on the wrong wire or plug in removal and reinstallation.
I thought what you might have there in your photo was the old 3E-7886 Speed Sensor that's used on the flywheel housing of engines like 3500's. However when I dug deeper I found that 3E-7886 services to 318-1181 and there is no instruction that any mods are required to install the new Part Number in place of the former one. So dry hole I'm afraid. Something about that old sensor in your photo tells me it's not a Cat part but I can't give you a specific reason why. it would be interesting to trace the wiring from it and see where it goes. My bet is that it won't go to the ECM. Ask if they can get any info on 4P-5820 Speed Sensor. That's about the last throw of the dice as far as I can see. Even then I'm not sure.
It's in a grove crane, so it may be just a sensor to drive the tach in the upper and lower. Each cab has a tach, so it may be a sensor that came mated for the gauge package from grove. And then it would not be a Cat part, Grove would have just specced the flywheel housing hole, or specced their sending unit to match the standard hole. The used housing I purchased had the same size hole in it as my old sensor, and one of the other used housings had the remnant of a sensor in it that had the wires cut.
The parts manual for your particular engine shows two 3/4" thread plugs on the top of the flywheel housing at approximately 10 & 2 o'clock. It does not show any sensors mounted in that location. I suspect you are correct and that the sensor is a Grove part to provide a signal for the tachometer. In which case it will have nothing whatsoever to do with the engine starting issues you are experiencing.
that old 3/4 unf sensor looks the same as the tach sensor used on some older ag tractors and combines
That's where the 4P-5820 Part Number came from.......... Still not totally convinced it's a Cat sensor.
Grove man confirms it is a grove part, not Cat. Service guy (Grove) says its not tied into ecm/ no fuel. Looks like I'm going to have to have the Cat man come out with his computer and play the "rabbit season- duck season" game on whether its a grove issue it won't run, or a cat issue. I'm betting we've pulled a wire or pushed it out of place on the big ecm plug. We had it unplugged and left everything else on the engine, we did have a few grounds unhooked and other wires, fun fun. Thanks everyone.
to me, it looks like a generic speed sensor used by several tractor/combine/equipment manufacturers. it looks the same as my old White Farm Equipment tractors and New Holland combine. i have bought replacements from a business that repairs ag/industrial electronic tachs, gauge clusters, etc
If you want to start ringing wires out then you can have an electrical schematic for the engine if it helps. Just ask.
That Tach sender is just a standard unit found in trucks going back 35 years, it's just a two wire there is also a three wire type. Any truck parts outlet should have it. https://mpparts.com/part/7125500-ma...ntent=mpparts products#lightbox-gallery--04-1
It LIVES! Local dirt contractors mechanic came by early this week, and hooked his computer to it. No communication, , he says his won't read anything older than 2015 That totally leaves out my equipment repertoire. My good man Jim stuck with it, and found the hot wires on the starter solenoid were loose. The starter had stayed in the crane just pulled off to the side and hanging in the frame while the motor was out, but evidently swung enough to loosen the wires, we never unwired it. It was getting enough 12v to crank, but was evidently losing something vital and wouldn't give it fuel. Thanks for the help everyone.