does anyone know how to remove the guard that protects the grease nipple that tightens the tracks on my 320. i asked a cat "mechanic" and he said to just bend the tabs down and remove it. i would rather do it properly. also the reason i want to remove it is because it won't take grease and my tracks are loose
For safety reasons cat welds the head of the bolt in so either grind the weld off or cut the slot bigger to remove the fitting
Believe him, just bend them down. Thats what I did with my 330, and then bend them back. Had the same issue. You do know that it is not just a standard grease zert, right?
got tired of buying a whole new valve every couple of years just because the zerk wore out, so I ground the zerk off, drilled out the hole,and threaded it so I could screw one in
thnx for the responses guys i'll just bend the tabs i guess
That is one instance where you need to be sure that everything is very clean before you attach the grease gun to the fitting.If dirt gets in the fitting it will leak and as you say,they are expensive.I even pump the first couple of shots before I connect to the zerk.Ron G
What I kept having trouble with was the round ball on the outside would rust and then wear down so small that the coupler wouldn't lock on or the top surface would pit and then not seal. I was replacing them about every 2-3 years.
Yep, salt water sand has a tendency to rust and corrode things eh mitch?
I ran a 320 for about 5 years and can't remember the configuration of the track adjuster fitting.LOL.My mind must be consumed with the other thing that I think of . Can you leave a gob of grease on the fitting or is it exposed to the elements so that it wouldn't stay there?My little '88 Aries has rubber caps on the wheel cylinder bleed screws,I wonder if something like that could help? I had thought of replacing the zerk like you did after drilling the old one out and tapping it.That would be an opportunity to use up all those grease fittings in your kit that don't fit anything else that you have.Ron G