Hi Guys, I have a Louisville LNT8000 with a CAT 3208 in it. I haven't driven it for about 5 weeks because of xmas etc. This morning I ran it for about 25 min while I loaded my bobcat on and when I took off I got about 200 metres up the road and then it stopped dead. I tried the hand pump and fuel is getting up to the pump but there is no smoke at the exhaust when I crank it. I got a diesel mechanic out to have a look and he reckons that some water in the pump has rusted the plungers while its been resting and then they've shattered when I fired it up today. He is suggesting that I pull it out and get the pump rebuilt which is looking quite expensive. While googling I cam across this post and I'm wondering what you guys think about it. Do You think it will get me going?? This link is to the orignal post http://www.justanswer.com/heavy-equipment/1vqqb-cat-3208-refuses-start-not-putter-sputter.html Basically he's talking about opening it up and hand turning it, then clearing the corrosion I think....
Just a thought ???? …. I had mine quit dead like that …. but it was the fuel pump shut off solenoid that shorted out and shut the fuel off preventing it from delivery …. might be worth looking at first …. will be a heck of alot cheaper if it is that …. cheers !
Well that would be awesome, can you tell me how to check for it?
Now that is a good question ! …. because it was like 12yrs ago, I had the same thing happen on my 3406B, now if my memory serves me right on the 3406 there was a thumb screw you could turn in to back off the plunger that shuts off the fuel …. turned the engine over it fired up and not leave you stranded, proved the the solenoid was pooped ! ……. but I can not remember if the 3208 had the same thing (my bad) …. it's under 3' of snow right now otherwise i'd go and look … Sorry ! …. the only other thing i'd locate it, there is only one wire to it, unplug the wire when the power is on there should be a deff click sound as the plunger drops as well as when you re-energize it, if you have your hand around it you can also feel it hammer back and forth, if it's working nothing if it's pooped …….. but maybe our fearless leader Steve will chime in (he's had ton's of 3208 time …. lol) …. or one of the others, we have plenty of them here on HEF …… hope this helps out !
Ok great thanks Craft. I read somewhere someone recommended disconnecting the solenoid as standard practice. I won't get a chance to work on it till the weekend so I'll gather as much info as I can over the next few days.
Ok so I managed to have a look at the solenoid. With 12V on the upper terminal which I believe is positive there is no click or sound at all. I just removed the wire and reconnected it with the ignition on a few times. I checked for volts with a continuity tester too. Could this be the answer??
Hi Nick, I had this same problem with the 3208 in one of my scrapers, was driving along and it just cut out, it was the fuel shut off solenoid just decided to burn out. Not sure how much access you have to the solenoid in your truck but if you can get to the top of the injector pump it's easy to remove, it only has two 1/4" bolts holding it, you could whip it out and test it or try another one in it's place.
I presume the solenoid has only one wire going to it? It should have 12v positive to it when the key is in the on position. I would remove the solenoid, leave the wire connected, turn on the key, make sure the body of the solenoid is in contact with some bare metal on the engine somewhere so that it will earth to complete the circuit, and see if it moves in and out when you apply or remove the power. If it is the 2 wire type, you can test the same, just make sure the other wire goes to earth instead of having to have the solenoid itself in contact with earth. If you have any doubts about the power supply, just run a temporary jumper wire from the battery to power it up. It is also just as important to have a good earth. Not quite sure what you mean with your wording here......... The solenoid should have continuity, easiest way is to check with a multimeter on the ohms setting. If it shows no continuity, it is burnt out, probably just due to old age.
Plant fitter has nailed it in testing the solenoid, common to fail and burnout so good chance that will be it. Another type of solenoid to is one which uses two coils, one to pull the plunger and another to hold it in place. It takes more energy to pull it back, these coils turnout often too. Any chance if posting a photo of your suspect solenoid??
If you take the solenoid off and look in the hole where it bolts on you will see a lever. If you push down on the lever it should spring back up a little. if it does spring up then try starting the truck with the shutoff out. You can shut it off by pushing down the lever. The solenoid is a spring loaded plunger that pushes the plunger down when there is no power to it. The hole the lever is in should be fairly dry because its sealed from the internals of the pump. It may have a bit of fuel in there though.
Well I would like to say a very big thank you to this forum once again you have saved me thousands of $$. Especially Craft mentioning the solenoid first up. When I tested the solenoid this afternoon it seemed that the solenoid had failed. I was about to try taking it out like you suggested Mobiltech when I noticed that it was already loose, when I wiggled it the negative wire fell off. So I was testing it with no negative. I tested it again and found it to be working, reconnected the negative terminal and the damn thing started up like normal. Thank you thank you thank you. I am a bit worried that the mechanic that came to look at it didn't even check it out. He just checked the fuel line between the primer and the pump and then told me the pump would need to be replaced. He should have checked the solenoid right? Anyway, it cost me a day and a call out fee so I'm pretty happy. If you still want a photo I can post one for you fsmech
That's ok mate just would have made diagnostics easier if fault had of continued, great news you got it up and running, simple little thing like that can kill any machine quick smart! We always carry a spare solenoid or two in our field trucks. Love the sound of v8 louies!
I know it may not apply to this Cat shut down problem but I recall a problem with a 3306, not sure it it would not start or not shut down, anyhow. This was in a 966 loader in that application the system was designed to need power to the solenoid to stop engine not run it. The basic way it work as I recall was a relay connected to the output wire of the alternator was energized when key was off and supplied the power to the solenoid until the output from the alternator dropped too low then it was de-energized. I should dig in to my records to see if I can find more detail of this machine.
Yes this is right. The wheel loaders were powered to stop and truck engines were powered to run. It depends on the style of solenoid. I am glad this helped but also a little upset at the fact that a mechanic would tell you it needed a fuel pump without even trying to troubleshoot it right.
That mechanic is why I try to do anything I possibly can...
Great to Hear you are back-up and running, nick009 !!! …. Just look at the experience you've gained for the next time …..LOL !!! kshansen : that 966 with the 3306 must be alot newer than the ones we ran as log loaders in the bush …… the ones we had were Totally a mechanical shut off …. done by the throttle pedal linkage …. you'd have to depress the pedal to turn on the fuel valve, and had to reach down and pull the pedal back to shut it off (if your boots weren't to fat you could hook the toe of the boot under and pull back too ….lol) …… but I never remembered any kind of electrical like that on the "B's & C's" ….. when the first "D's" showed up they had electrical shut off …. to the best of my tired 'ol knowledge ….. Haha ……. Cheers Guys !
Thats why you need to find a "lazy" mechanic that checks all the easy fixes first!
That there was going to be one of my comments! Often say the best mechanic is the lazy one, he'd rather do some simple test than to start removing the big parts! Like one of the guys who I worked with years ago. He was told to go to a plant and replace the "bad head-gasket" on a 988A. Started removing some parts then took a closer look and found that the real problem was the gasket where the cam housing attached to the rear gear housing. Still not a five minute job but lots easier than a head gasket!
Well newer is a relative term! This was as you suspected a 966D, had to check SIS and they show build date as March 18, 1981! Probably half the guys here were not even born at that time I had been pulling wrenches for 10 years at that time!
Well... Im not exactly "lazy". Just "efficient" . It is amazing how many people want an overhaul when a linkage adjustment fixes everything. Case in point: Wabco scraper that wouldnt steer. Replaced all the worn out Heim joints in the linkage and it works great. but the owner was suspicious because I didnt charge enough? Really? Do all good repairs have to cost a minimum of xxxx Bucks?