Pab05219 , things i have done , checked for combustion gas none found at this time, found foam missing around radiator and counterweight this has been reinstalled , next found radiator cap not sealing i think i have that fixxed now but could really use a new neck soldered on , radiator is clean and was rodded out after the overhual. Put in a new temp sender and checked wiring all seems ok. Waterpump and thermostat new on rebuild thermostat is working fine. I also ran over flow hose into water bottle to double verify it isnt bubbling . Any ideas? I havent tried yet, gonna have the guy run it after lunch and see what happens while i sit in ac and watch.
Oh yeah engine was rebuilt due to being just plain worn out , hard to start and excessive blowby.
PBA is wrong S/N prefix, it's for a D6N. Are you sure you don't mean PAB..? Even if it is PAB prefix, the numbers after don't jibe whichever way I enter them. Wanna take another look at the S/N plate..? I don't want to start digging based on a wrong S/N. Waste of my time and yours.
Yeah pab little mechanic dislexia going on today i will be back to the machine in 15 minutes i will get you correct serial shortly
Pab05219 , guy had it in the red in 20 minutes ,rad cap still isnt sealing but is holding some pressure now just not full pressure , system holds pressure with my pump on it.
PAB is for 320C Solid fan drive? Is fan on correct direction? Electro viscous fan? Any codes in monitor?
Belt routed correctly?
Solid fan drive , belt is on correctly so is the fan .the monitor and pump control is the only thing et detects. engine is mechanical ues 320c i have been working on a 330b same place im getting numbers mixxed up lol
Air lock? I’ve had that with vehicles after replacing radiator hoses and thermostat. Had to open at highest point to let air out... (Just throwin’ that out there)
Have you verified the temp with a laser thermometer? Checked rad upper lower temp differential?
T stat housing saying its around 250f , top of rad around 240 bottom tank 195 its working good as far as rad is concerned cant figure out were all the heat is coming from will cool down about 3 bars in 5 minutes when it gets hot and auto goes to idle
Looks like regular (thermostat) can't be put in upside down, but could it be defective or the wrong part?
Timing ?
I was kinda wondering about that after some reading , if it is the problem its not overly advance the thing fires rite up without so much as a hesitation. Or cam retarded a tooth at this point im sorta outta ideas that are easy, and its not that easy to do engine work on those .
I was thinking timing also or something to do with engine efficiency. Is there any other system that can put heat into the radiator of this unit? Hydraulics, etc? I agree it sounds like excessive heat getting into the coolant for some reason. Since everything else seems to be working as expected. I do not think you need to go looking for air locks and such. Once the thermostat opened for the first time any remaining air got purged. And with a top temperature of 240 and bottom of 195 it sounds like it is running plenty of flow. Otherwise the bottom temperature would be lower yet.
Yeah radiator was rodded and cleaned its like new other then the cap wont stay down tight, i can run it for an hour the other guy 20 minutes but he is into it non stop stacking brush and digging tiny stumps, hydrialic cooler sits next to the radiator they are not stacked. Im at a loss right now engine got put in last fall and was having these issues straight away, before engine rebuild it never ran hot talked to the guy that wore it out over the course of the last 5 years stumping and clearing boss mans farm land .
How much is the RPM dropping when a load is applied? Should probably be no more that 150 with the throttle dial at 10 and say booming down swinging and stick out at the same time. That fact that coolant temp drops so fast indicates the cooling system is working correctly. All the Cat excavator radiator caps are junk. Go get a quality one at a Napa store somewhere.
Is it low on power? Any black smoke out the exhaust? Possible restriction in the muffler? Is the serp belt singing tight? It sure sounds like the pump timing is advanced. She's running hotter than I would want to see!! Yikes.
It doesnt drop any rpm noticably you can hear a slight load change on a high demand function but thats it
Not low on power no black smoke muffler looks like it was recently changed, belts tight. I put a cam belt on a car once and retarded cam one cog on accident it ran hot as **** fast and made the manifold glow .
You should be able to see that on the monitor panel and know for sure how much. Your rebuilt engine may have more horsepower than it does cooling system. Maybe run a cycle time on the boom up function as well.
One wierd thing I saw on a Cat hoe once was an exhaust leak blowing into the radiator. You have a new muffler and have checked radiator w/ laser, so probably not it.
Im reading everyones comments in going to swing by it in the morning on the way in real quick and see if they left a witness mark on the injector pump and mounting if i cant see nuthen im gonna call the guy up and ask him how he timed the pump , as the sis shows a spill timing method i dont have alot of experience with. I kinda grew up in the electronic era and all the old guys worked on the old stuff, this is such a simple engine it has to be something stupid , after looking and reading about the cooling system on this set up does the t-stat block off the bypass port when it opens im kinda wondering if it isnt a defective t- stat that isnt fully opening Even though it looked to have a dang good flow when i had cap off and water a tad low .
The generally-accepted number for a radiator in good condition is that it will drop the coolant temp by approximately 20 Deg. I’m wondering why yours is dropping it by 45 Deg...? Low flow..? even if it was allegedly rodded out during the rebuild. As others have mentioned it could also be the thermostat or even the water pump.
i had similar issues with a ford pickup after an emgine rebuild. the problem was a bad radiator. The radiator was cleaned so i was notvthinkingvabaut it and turned out the flow was 65 precent of the new one so that was my issue. on one other time (im a pro mechanic) a car with a new wngine constantlybover heated , all parts even a new radiator was installed after 1 week trouble shooting , and 3 times pulling the heads i found out the waterpump impeller was slightly loose on the pump shaft and as the engine warmed up the impeller slipped on the shaft and the pump not circulated the coolant fast in the engine,.and the engine is owerheated slowly but surly . a small weld.on the pump shaft fix the pump and all the problem disappered.
That temp drop on the rad is strange. I’d be looking for a flow problem. Get another good reading from top to bottom of rad just to be sure.
Yeah that is quite the difference between upper and lower temps, I didn't catch that before thinking out loud... I've also seen strange flow issues from someone forgetting to remove a rag or plastic cap plug in the past! Very curious.
If you have exhausted every easier avenue of figuring this out, I would place insulated thermocouples at the engine top before the thermostat, one at the radiator inlet and one at the radiator outlet. Start the engine from cold and watch all three temperatures as it begins to warm to see when the thermostat opens and what happens with the lower temperature as the radiator begins to receive hot water and heat up.
Yes you are correct about the cat caps . I plumbed in my cooling system pressurizer to the water manifold and built 4 psi and it leaked off quickly. Talked to the local cat house and they found where it said caps secondary relief is 12.5 psi , i managed to track down a carquest 13 psi cap and did same test was able to pump it up to about 14 psi and it bleed off to about 10 psi and was just barely seeping , installed new t-stat noticed a very different flow on warm up while i was topping of coolant it was cycling like an unloaded engine at idle should , when i turned of auto throttle and put it on 10 it opened and stayed flowing but seemed slower then before i think it may have been a defective t-stat after all. I stacked brush for about an hour stayyed 2 bars away from the red before it was touching the red about to yell at me . Need the guy to run it now what takes me an hour to oveheat took him 20 minutes so we shall see .
Quick but long update, after i heat cycled it this afternoon i went back to it this evening after work and i worked as hard as a not run stuff everday mechanic can while stacking brush and such. Having the cooling system hold pressure has stopped the runaway heating issue i was having . I can still keep it very close to hot but could not push ot to overheat with my operating skills so its sort off a win so far at least im getting somewhere now . As this machines engine was taken out rite before i started and was worn out it likely wasnt running hot then then i saw the tag of the place that supposedly cleaned the radiator , lets just say they used to be good so i have my doubts if they actually unsoldered a tank and properly cleaned and rodded it. Im pretty much condemning the radiator now that i have a handle on things . If cat is reasonably priced i will get genuine but i will also check my mack dealer as they got me a radiator for a johndeere 8400t that i think was a better radiator then the original and is working fine 500 bucks cheaper and 5 days faster . And wouldnt ya know it this morning they traded in 2 excavators to james river and one was an identical 320c if i had known sooner i woulda traded radiators ohwell , will updated next week sometime after a radiator change .
I would not disregard removing something below the thermostat to bleed air. Do not that that is your problem but it costs nothing. Then I would plumb a gauge into the back of the oil cooler, block or head. What is your coolant pressure at full throttle?
T-stat has a hole in it it self bleeds rather well i did pull the fitting out of the water manifold just to be sure found no air. Said fitting is an original compucheck fitting for taking coolant sample or checkin pressure didnt want to disturb that one without a replacment on hand. Gonna see if cat house has a spec for waterpressure if there is i will check it .
I had a Case cx160 with plastic tanks it came apart at seam. Case wanted $2800 for new one I got one with aluminum tanks from activeradiator.com for $900 several locations across U.S. they can make anything you need better quality than what was in it.
Active radiator showed a radiator in stock in texas but they cant find it so im 10 days out on getting one now that i have owner man approval. Will post results when i get there .