Hey Guys, I have a 1994 Pete 359 with a cat 3306 cat in it. The truck has around 200,000 miles and I think around 1800 hrs, ill check on that. I burn around 1 gallon of oil every day and white smoke comes out the exhaust when decelerating down a hill and then accelerating, when reversing, and when I start off while idling for a while. Also, if I idle for a while oil comes out around the waste gate. The truck runs strong and sounds good, it's been like this for at least two years. I'm looking for ideas and ways to diagnose the problem. Another issue I have is I have no heat. I've put pressure on the system and the heater core isn't clogged, coolant runs through it. I put a pressure gauge on the coolant system and I'm only getting around 8psi. When the truck was running, I disconnected the heater core hoses, and no coolant was running through the hoses. I have done a exhaust leak test on the radiator several times and it was negative for exhaust vapors. I also did an oil analysis and didn't have abnormal amounts of soot or metals in the oil. I don't remember exactly what it said but there was nothing that caused concern. Thanks in advance!
Have you checked the turbo. Does water run out of heater hoses if so and the heater core is flowing what about the doors on the heater are they maybe stuck closed.
The turbo was replaced two years ago. The problem was there before that. The valves for the heater core are open. I can put pressure on the radiator cap and coolant flows through it, when the trucks running nothing is flowing
If you take the hoses off the heater core and hang down low water should flow out without putting air pressure on radiator, also could someone have the heater hoses plumbed in the wrong location on engine one has to put out and one has to suck so that it will flow thru core otherwise no flow. Back to the oil prob. if the turbo is good it could be the engine is just tired. Something else Im not sure about since we dont mess with trucks just our own but was wandering if your truck had jakes and if they could cause this.
I disconnected both hoses and there’s no flow from either. If I drop them down coolant will come out but that’s because it’s lower then everything else. So gravity takes over. No Jake on this truck.
If it's flowing coolant through heater hoses one will be warm the other hot. What does the temp gauge say? Just how cold is this engine running? Just possibly that could be a major issue causing both problems. You haven't said it's running at normal temp, like 180*.
The trucks fan is stuck on, and the truck does run cold. If the trucks running hard, like loaded up a hill at high rpm, I will get some heat for a few minutes sometimes. I understand that the heat wouldn't be great if the truck is running colder than normal temp. But shouldn't there be flow regardless? I guess my real question is why there isn't flow. Is 8 psi a normal pressure to be in the coolant system? Unfortunately, it was a while ago and I don't remember exactly but I don't think it held at 8psi, I think I remember it dropping below 5psi. I thought it should be around 13 -15 psi. I attached the gauge to one of the ports by the oil cooler coming out of the block.
At this point I would be checking if it has a thermostat in it or it's stuck open, if it's constantly running cold it will wash the cylinders down and smoke like a BBQ. And the water/coolant pump is operational.
The thermostat I replaced when I replaced the oil cooler last year. How can I check the water pump? I gave a quick visual at it when doing the oil cooler. It looked fine. I’m thinking it might be that because of the low pressure when I hooked up a gauge and it was less then 8 psi. My only experience with water pump failure are seals or broken fins. Which it doesn’t have either.
If it's running cold-there is a issue with stat, after running for awhile check temp at top hose with a infrared temp gun. You need to find the reason it's running cold. If water pump impeller is good and housing is good {no cavitation} then there shouldn't be a issue there. Just because stat was changed doesn't mean it's ok.
Truck runs around 140. The clutch fan is stuck on. Could that keep the temperature down?
Yes, especially if most use is short trips with no hills with no need to work it hard. It's a small displacement engine with a large cooling system in that 379, last year for 359 was 1987.
Ok. Thanks. I didn’t know that. I was just going by what the old owner told me. what about the no flow to the heater core and the oil consumption?
Well--I personally think the oil consumption will subside over time if the engine is running a constant 180* temp. The heater issue will probably lessen also. But one question--does it have shut off valves on heater hoses? if so are both wide open?
Yea they’re definitely both open. I should have also mentioned the radiator cap is left loose because some pressure builds up and leaks out the overflow tube. No exhaust vapors were detected during combustion test.
Don't over fill it--but if it's building pressure, leave the gauge on it and run it down the road. I have a setup with long hoses and two gauges that I can run in the side window and watch. DDEC V Series 60's were known for head gasket issues, everyone one of the 26 we had built pressure at some point. The gauge on those would steadily climb to 20 psi.
Disconnect both hoses to the heater core and flush the core both ways with a water hose until it runs clear. May be some stop leak or other sediment restricting the flow. New thermostats are a good idea. get the fan operating as it should; should be free at lower temps and kick on at set temperature. Did it leak air for previous owner and get the fan clutch locked up?
Could also be the type that needs air to lock it, NC/NO.