how do you tell if a 3306 has a bad or flat camshaft, what are the running symptoms. is there a way to measure it for spec without total dismantle??
Pull the oil pan and and have some one bar the engine over, while looking at the camshaft from the bottom.
take rocker cover off and measure the pushrod travel or the lift. use a dial indicator. the intake and exhaust will be different. if you cant get the specs you could compare them to each other. intake to intake and exhaust to exhaust. if you have a worn lobe it will have less travel than good ones.
What Farmerlund said.
As you did not give an exact S/N to be sure I just did a look at a 3306B Industrial engine to get some idea. This is what they said for that one: Specified camshaft lobe lift: Inlet lobe is 8.382 mm (0.3300 inch). Exhaust lobe is 8.382 mm (0.3300 inch). So as famerlund suggested, use a dial indicator on the rocker arm to measure the lift at the adjuster end. It may not be real accurate due to the tipping of the arm as it moves but should give you a good idea. Now if you give the full S/N I could check to see if there is a different spec' for your engine.
Often on a cat engine you can crank it over while watching the rockers. On a old 855 Cummins pulling the pan works good.
When you turn this engine over it has a wheeze noise thru exhaust and intake side, it had it before and after in frame rebuild. Is there any way the cam gear could be off a tooth??
Was this "wheeze" the reason for the in-frame? I'm assuming when the in-frame was done this included a good valve job by a know good machine shop? Does it only make this "wheeze" sound when one particular cylinder is on an up or down stroke? Can you remove the exhaust manifold and listen to see it the noise comes from just one or all cylinders? Have you had this engine running since this in-frame, or did you notice the noise while turning over to set valves? Lots of questions, but these are some of the things I would be looking at if it was an engine I was working on. One more off the wall thought. Does this engine have a compressor mounted on it? Could you be hearing noise coming from the compressor?
inframe was done because of poor engine performance,no power slow to get going,injection pump passed test stand with flying colors,new head installed with all the goodies,new injectors, overhead done three times now after running just to make sure nothing moved.no compressor mounted on engine.i have service manual so i have the specs. put sight glass on fuel line no bubbles,checked intake and exhaust for blockage nothin,ran it a little to see if the wheeze would settle in but still doing it.fuel pressure is good.i can remove exhaust manifold!
Trouble shooting at a distance is difficult, things that would be obvious in a second in person can take days by text. Did the original poor performance come on over a period of time, like weeks or months or did it happen fast? What did the parts removed look like? Broken rings, scuffed up pistons, burnt valves, sloppy valve guides, worn bearings and so on? Were there any oil samples done on the engine? 3306B, assume this is a direct injection engine so glow plugs are not in the mix, right? What does this engine power? This thread I see is in the "Transportation" "Truck" area but the lack of air compressor seems a little odd. Just wondering if the "poor performance" could be caused by the load on the engine or another component putting drag on the engine.
its on a dozer so engine is the 200hp no bells and whistles its a long going thread in dozer section figured i had it when i found it a had a 4 deg truck cam in injection pump but no go, advanced timing and still same.came to trucks about engine question should have just kept it in dozer section.figured dozer guys tired of hearing about this plus i am embarrassed that i can not figure it out!!
Does it have the signal line (can't remember what Cat calls it, dammit Ken help me out on it) from the back of the governor to the back of the head on it? Maybe the turbo is not spooling up because the rubber diaphragm is busted in it. This engine may have been transplanted from a scraper, they had them on certain models. Trucks did too. I would check the pump timing after that.
i think you mean the fuel air ratio,it has it,brand new with new line to the back of head,checked it with timing meter tried 9deg in one degree increments to 20deg no difference on response.only thing not changed is turbo and camshaft
talked with cat tech again today, he said, set FIP at 14 deg and he also thinks there is a hydraulic pump not destroking or torque is flooded,still does not explain the wheeze,he told me to run it under load, let it get up to temp, maybe valves would set in but still does it,seem to be getting high exhaust temps also
Air fuel ratio valve is what I was trying to think of. Yes, you can get the crank to cam gears off on timing and it will run like crap. I have done it. It needs to be checked, that could explain the wheeze with valves opening when they're not supposed to.
is there any way to get a inspection camera in thru FIP gear cover and see the crank and cam gears??
This was an in frame rebuild so I was thinking the timing gears would not have been touched. But then the problem "wheezing" was there before the work was done. Guess another question is did this engine ever run good? What is the history of it? And like I asked above what did parts that were replaced look like.
engine never ran good, no history on machine, so did inframe,no. 1 exhaust valve worked into seat so bad had to replace head,main bearings where bad, sleeves, pistons,rod bearings fine
So it sounds like this is a "new to you" machine. Have you tried watching the rocker arms while turning over the engine or even running it with valve cover off? If there is any major problem with a cam lobe you should be able to see it in the amount one moves in relation to the others. I don't think there is a way to see timing marks without removing front cover. Before doing that I guess I would remove exhaust manifold and run it like that to see if there is something obvious different in the exhaust from one cylinder. Look for something like fire shooting out like a big torch on one cylinder when you rev the engine, or lots of smoke on just one exhaust port. If there is then I would swap the nozzle from the "bad" cylinder to another to confirm the problem does not follow the nozzle. If timing of cam is the problem all cylinders would be affected the same. But if the problem was just one it "COULD" be a bad lobe or nozzle. Any chance of doing a video of this thing cranking over and then running to give us some idea of what you are seeing and hearing?
a while back,we opened valve cover and visually checked with a tape measure, rocker arm movement seemed to be the same, thru out the rack.book said to open each fuel line at top of fuel pump to check for a problem in specific cylinder,opened each one individually and it effected the running of that specific cylinder each time,so i think that would check of the bad nozzle. there has to be a way to check for cam timing with out looking at marks,was going to degree check the cam of the flywheel but cat would not give me the lobe and degree of cams so no go there.all they said to do was pull of valve cover loosen all valves intake and exhaust,turn engine over, if wheeze is gone head is fine.redo the overhead,turn engine over wheeze still there,cam is off a tooth.do you think this will work? i will try to get a video of it turning over
That method should work.
About the only way I can see to check without removing the front cover would be if you had another 3306B that you knew was right. Then using dial indicator on one of the valve lifters and another on the top of the piston for that cylinder. Then make a note as to the relationship between the two. Or a degree wheel on the vibration damper adjusted to zero when #1 piston was at top Center then make note of the degrees when a valve moves a specific amount. I'm beginning to wonder if the best approach to this engine might be to just pull it out of the dozer unless it is possible to remove front cover with it still in frame and actually see the timing marks.
d9gdon, when you had the cam of a tooth how did the engine run?? kshansen i think maybe pull the blade, pull the front nose of, then the radiators,then fan and belts and i can get at the front,just a little shy to tear it down and find all timing marks are correct.swamped with work now but will try the valve release option next, just to make sure nothin in the head is bad.