Greetings Experts.....first post as a member and I have a question. Maybe one of you has seen this before and can give me some guidance. Have a 544J in the shop, and the transmission (ZF, I believe) is exhibiting some odd behavior. Everything starts and runs well, but by far the majority of the time, when putting the FNR (Forward/Neutral/Reverse) lever in either forward or reverse, I get no engagement. The rare times it does engage, it will move only a few feet and seem to slip back into neutral. The display on the instrument panel properly reflects the selected position. All fluids and filters are fresh. Temps all normal. Other hydraulic operations (boom, bucket, swivel) normal. Gear selector on lever correlates with display. At this point, I do not have a schematic to trace the circuit from the shift lever all the way to the (I suppose) clutch. Or wherever it leads. Any pointers or tests that I can run I would appreciate very much! tcw
Title says "Cat", yet 544J is a Deere. Delayed engagement? Have you changed spin on filter? Cleaned screen in sump? Running Hygard? Any codes related to drivetrain in ECM? Fluid and filters fresh...was this done before or after symptoms started?
So sorry....yes indeed, JD. Working on a Cat also, guess my mind was split. No delay when it does decide to engage. When it doesn't....no sound, no movement of anything I can tell. It disengages after maybe max 10 seconds even not moving when it does engage. Acts just like it was shifting back to neutral. Engages I'd say one attempt out of 50 or more. Engine rpm has no effect. Spin on changed. Screen has been cleaned. Not sure about Hygard. Will check tomorrow. No applicable codes, but I'm not completely familiar with this drivetrain. I'll grab what is there and post tomorrow. There are several. Dealer suggested new ECM, but I'm not convinced. This ECM is a rebuild from March '17. F&F new since failure. Another odd clue, perhaps. Not sure exactly why I did this, but I was raising the boom and the transmission seemed to stay engaged and I could move the machine as long as the boom was lifting. Out of travel, transmission disengages. Something tells me this is pressure related. Also, and this doesn't sound like an intelligent thing to do, but after it slips back into neutral, if I "whip" the steering wheel back and forth slightly (also messing with hydraulic pressure) it acts like it wants to engage, causing a jerking motion, and will inch along. It doesn't sound healthy, as the attempts at engagement are rather harsh, so I didn't do it but a couple of times to confirm the action/reaction. This discovery was quite accidental, I assure you. And a bit startling. One last thing for tonight (this morn). Sometimes, but not every time, the instrument panel flashes the orange/yellow "Trans Error" (wording may not be exact. I'm mostly asleep) I'll have more details by noon CST. Thank you for your response! tcw
Welcome to HEF Tony ! Need a serial number. Also scroll to codes in the monitor and report on any active/stored codes.
Thanks mg. Which sn you want? The ECM sn is blank, as it is a reman, and I know there are several on the chassis. I'll get what I believe to be the main machine number. Will post all codes a little later....have to have my coffee dose before heading out. tcw
Note to the Moderators (I assume there are some). Could you please correct the title for me? It should read "John Deere 544J Trans Question" or "JD 544J Trans Question". Many thanks if you can make me look and feel less like an idiot.
Well, this is going to take a bit. There were more stored codes than I thought. Full up 20, in fact. Please bear with me as I get them entered. First though, the "Product Identification Number" which I assume is the SN: DW544JZ603764 Codes (Active) 1) Brake Pressure Low FLC 117.1 2) 12V Cntr Tap Open or Short FLC 444.5 3) Fan Speed Sol Circuit Fault FLC 1071.31 4) Battery Voltage Imbalance FLC 444.18 Codes (Stored) 1) Same as #2 above 2) Same as #4 above 3) Same as #1 above 4) F Washer Pump Open Circuit FLC 522797.5 5) CAN Comm Lost for TCU FLC 2003.9 6) Current Gear Not Valid ECU 523.9 7) Clutch KS Sol Short to Gnd TCU 522392.4 8) Clutch K3 Sol Open Circuit TCU 522392.5 9) CAN Comm Lost For SSM FLC 2140.9 10) Trans Oil Filter Restricted TCU 522375.0 11) CAN Comm Lost for TCU CMU 2003.9 12) 1rst FNR Mult Inputs TCU 522411.12 13) Fan Speed Sol Circuit Fault FLC 1071.31 14) Trans Speed Sensor Fault TCU 522401.2 15) Clutch K3 Slippage TCU 522392.2 16) ? Unknown Code ECU 100.18 17) CAN Comm Lost for SSM CMU 2140.9 18) R Wiper Lo-Speed Open Circuit FLC 522433.5 19) Clutch K3 Sol Short to Power TCU 522392.3 I lied.....guess there were only 19 stored. I do have page 2 for each of these codes if needed. And I found out that someone (knew I should have pocketed the key) had been in cab and was really yanking on the FNR lever rapidly and rather roughly trying to make it work. Some of these codes may be the result of that. I'm positive there were not that many when I left the machine earlier yesterday. As I mentioned, none that seemed connected with the driveline....but now I see several that would indeed seem related to the trans and clutch. At this point I have the FNR lever on the bench and I am giving it a good cleaning (the boot was not properly strapped around the switch housing, allowing a lot of dirt in) and deoxidizing the switch. It does seem somewhat intermittent. Won't hurt to clean and lube it. Mechanically it seems fine, just dirty. There were two of the wires with small spots where the insulation had been compromised, but they were down in the loom and not close to each other or anything they could short to. They will be repaired with solder and shrink tubing. From this write up, the machine looks to be in rough shape, but I don't believe it. I spoke with two of the operators and there have been no problems other than the A/C prior to the drive issue. It does seem to be in good shape overall. OK....that's enough to chew on for now, I'm sure. Oh, and yes, Hygard (equivalent from NAPA) was used. Sorry about all this, and I'm grateful for any help I can get. tcw
Press and hold the menu button until service menu pops up. Then you will get the option to clear the codes. Clear them. Then try to drive the machine and see what comes back. Only use Hygard oil in that transmission, not NAPA oil.
Acknowledged. I am told the low brake pressure warning light has been flashing for some time, prior to this drive problem. So I'm sure it will be back. Could this be related to the root cause of what I am seeing? I don't like having warning lights ignored by operators. They shouldn't get used to paying no heed to the dash panel. I'll get the switch back together and go to the shop in the morning to reinstall it, and clear the codes as you said and see what comes back up.
Well, seems to be some progress. First on the switch. Internally there are 3 momentary contact switches. They are actuated by camlike features in the die cast zinc handle/stem itself. Depending on position, some combination is actuated. These were gummed up and full of dirt, so I'm thinking they did not consistently make/break as designed. A good cleaning with electronics cleaner and compressed air freed them up mechanically. A few small squirts of Caig Deoxit D5 (cleaner/deoxidizer/lube) seemed to resolve anything but possibly just plain wear. I don't know how many hours is on the machine. Also patched a couple of bald spots on some wires leading from the switch assembly. So it is still suspect in my opinion. I'll probably replace it, if I can find one. On to the codes. After clearing the codes, before attempting to move the machine, leaving it in neutral, there were 4 active. The same codes (#1-#4) as were set before as active. I expected that. Everything else seemed normal. So, patting myself on the back just a little (I know the risk), I drove it forward and reverse about 20-25 feet in the building I am working in. All systems same, no new codes. So, gaining some confidence, I took it out into the yard. Seemed to drive normally, both in auto and in manual modes. I have about 40 acres to run around in. So far, so good. Then cruising along in 2nd, it slipped back into a disengaged position. Display showed still in Forward, but back in 1rst gear as it coasted to a stop. Stopping the engine and restarting seems to "reset" things so it will engage in either F or R and run for a while. Now, instead of just a few feet, I may get 100 yds+ before it fails. Now there is an additional code: Clutch K3 Sol Short to Gnd TCU 522392.4 page 2 Wire T06 BLU, P78 RED Conn-Pin X23-55, -12 X23-13 Section: SE23 That code does seem to be drive related. But is it that it is a response from the ECU to disengage the clutch and ignore subsequent commands from the FNR switch or is it something else? And is this really indicative of an actual shorted wire or internal short in the Clutch Solenoid? We have an ongoing argument between ourselves that it is indeed more directly related to the solenoid/wiring than simply a false signal/error in the ECU/ECM. First off the dealer condemned the ECU/ECM.....that's where I started having doubts. I do now have a service manual, so hopefully the wire and or connection is not buried too deeply to investigate. I haven't mentioned this before, but I am semi retired and physically unable to do much of the grunt work of crawling around under/over these machines any more, but I have some "helpers" who try to take care of that part. So, what's the next move, Chief? tcw
I think you are on to it. A short in the K3 would cause a shift to nuetral I believe Since you have the wiring schematic , you could figure out which pins go the K3 solonoid and check for continuity to ground and to each other. If it checks out to ground unplug the harness at the transmission control valve and see if it changes . Still continent to ground it is in the harness,. If not, it is likely the K3 solonoid shorted or the internal control valve harness.
Any issue with the solenoids can cause the TCU to kick the trans into neutral. Like partsandservice says I think you are on the right track.
Thanks guys. Yes, the service manual has the diagnostic procedures for testing K3 Short to Gnd. Simple enough if I can physically locate the wiring junctures. I repair/restore antique radios and stuff as a hobby so have piles of equipment for testing, but this will just take an ohm meter. I have an electronic copy of the manual, and I wish it hot linked from the diagnostics to the schematic/wiring locator but it doesn't....but that only will cause me to take a little more time to find the connectors, and specifically K3. But Monday that's what I'll be doing. Since I did all that cleanup on the shifter switches, what are your feelings on leaving it alone vs replacing it? In my experience with other equipment (and here I must admit heavy equip is not really my thing professionally, I am a career machinist but work on and fix just about anything from watches up and have done quite a bit of equipment repair), switches that get full of grit and show wear and act like this one did before I cleaned it have shortened life. You guys seen any history of the lifespan of the shifter mechanism? Much appreciation guys, tcw
This all fine and dandy, but the electronic copy I have (.pdf) when enlarged enough, is completely illegible in SE23 so it's no help at all identifying the proper connectors and wires. I'm on a 31" hi-res monitor even. Don't get me wrong, it appears to be a complete manual, about 1,300 pages.....but if I can't read the pages it's not a lot of help, especially the ones containing details like I need for this. And K3.....that's the solenoid itself, correct? At this point all I have (I think) is wire colors to identify it. I could see how this could be frustrating. Can you guys give me the general idea of where I will find what I'm looking for? It's one thing to read that it's connector X23 and pins 12 and 13....but locating it is quite another. I appreciate the hand-holding... tcw
To answer your first question about the FNR....I would recommend replacing it with the new Hall Effect shifter. The old style like yours have been very problematic. If you decide to replace it there is a jumper harness required as well, as well as two screws for attaching that are a different length. The parts dept should be able to print you the instructions since they are attached to the part number's notes. X23 is the transmission controller connector. Pins 12 and 13 (both P78 Red) are the voltage for the transmission solenoids and pin 55 (T06 Blue) is the control (ground) wire for the K3 solenoid. X36 connector is the connector at the transmission control valve. T06 Blue for K3 should be pin #4 in that connector and P78 red should be pin #7.
OK, thanks mg, that will help. Awoke with a question this morning though. When the machine faults out and goes to neutral, I can shut it down, immediately restart it and everything goes back to normal. Now in my electrical experience, that makes it sound like an intermittent short (if that is indeed what it turns out to be). That's possibly going to be tough to nail down with the machine just sitting. I know I can do the "jiggle test" on the cable bundle and it might show up, provided it's in the harness. But what are the odds of having an intermittent in the K3 solenoid itself, and is there any way to "force" it to show up during testing? Interesting that there is a Hall effect replacement. Much superior I'm sure. I don't care for the way the original is built. If (hypothetically) one of the 3 switches in the FNR were to stick closed, could that be the short I'm chasing? It doesn't seem like it, since that ought to occur as soon as the shifter was moved, but if one of the switches was supposed to be NO while moving and then moved to an NC position, could that be a short? I'm thinking that's not the case, just thinking "out loud" here. Not planning on spending much time chasing that line of thought. Just out of curiosity I looked at a price for that FNR switch. Pricey, retail anyway, for no more than it is. I'll get a quote on the Hall effect replacement tomorrow. Many thanks, once again! tcw
Intermittent usually points to a wiring/connection issue (90% of the time), but not always. A solenoid that is starting to short out may work when cold and then create an issue when hot like the park brake solenoid on a ZF trans on a backhoe I had a few weeks ago (see scope trace below). You could check the ohms through the solenoid to see if it is within spec also (17-21 ohms). If lower then the solenoid could be the issue. I have not seen FNR's cause shorted solenoid codes.
One day I'll break down and buy a DSO. Hard to justify when I have 3 scopes on the bench and don't do that much field work where a scope is needed. Maybe I'll requisition one for this shop. (and then keep it on my truck) Point well taken. Best I can do is take some resistance measurements both cold and hot I suppose. Would agree that hot could cause insulation breakdown and show a short or at least reduced resistance. Thanks for the post! tcw
Now I'm not trying to be a smart aleck or be lazy, but since this is presumably (at this point) a short in the harness involving T06 Blu, or P78 Red, and is intermittent, would it make sense to just snip it at the connectors and run a new wire parallel to the harness? Protected and all properly, of course. I'm just trying to minimize the time spent on the ground under the machine. I have a pretty bad back and am supposed to just be the brains for this repair, but I'd really rather fix it myself. When I splice, I solder and use jelly filled shrink tubing, but my helpers aren't that meticulous and if pressed will cry about it and do a poor job. But I hesitate to say..."Let's just replace the suspect harness." I am struggling with the idea of a short with the connector itself on either end. Open, a different story, but a short doesn't seem too likely. I'll check it, sure...but to me odds are against that being the location of a short. I guess I'm trying to cover everything I can think of before I go in the morning to get on it. The building I'm in (and glad to have the shelter) has no power, water, or anything. I carry an inverter for my trouble light and can run my laptop no problem. If I need more power, I can drag a genset near enough to use without making too much racket. The internet WIFi at the office won't quite reach out to the building, so if I need to consult it on anything I have to stop and relocate closer, or use one of the office buildings if I need to print something. At least they are air conditioned. It's getting pretty hot and humid lately so that can be a welcome break.
Sure, you can do that. Just check the ohms on the solenoid first. If OK run separate wires (start with the T06 blue first) to see if the problem goes away.
Thanks mg. I may tap into those wires and hook up a couple of meters to watch as I drive the machine to see it the short or whatever it is shows up if/when the failure occurs. Then I may do the wire replacement. I guess that's really what the manual means when it says to repair the circuit. It doesn't say straight out to replace the harness, so unless a bare spot on a wire is evident, I don't see a repair other than just running a parallel wire, or (much more troublesome, I'm sure) pulling a new wire through the loom. Some are pretty tight and even with wire lube that might be nigh on impossible. But I will check cold/hot resistance on the solenoid first. 7-11 Ω I believe you said. Sounds about right for a 24V solenoid. I'll give an update later today. thanks.....again tcw
Gentlemen, I congratulate you for your knowledge and wisdom. I may not have followed the procedures in the book precisely, but in spirit and practice. I checked the solenoid first as suggested and it was fine. Then instead of breaking every possible connection along the way (to avoid disturbing otherwise working circuits), I ran my test jumper all the way from the solenoid connector to the transmission controller in a single run. Just red butted for the test. Wrapped the wire safely out of the way and off we go for a test drive. This was wire T06 Blu, and I will label the sub for the next tech. I drove the thing over an hour and a half, over hill and dale....smooth and rough, uphill and down. I did everything but try to drown it, although we do have ponds and the thought did cross my mind. It never even blinked. In the morning I'll go swap to MTW and solder and shrink the splices and wrap to the existing loom. Then just a couple of access panels and some trim.....all done Well done, guys....couldn't have done it without you. Help most appreciated. I'm still not green-tagging this machine because of the low brake pressure warning light, so I guess I'll track down the pressure sensor and have a look. I must have pressure, it will throw you thru the windshield, so I'm hopping for a faulty connector, wire, or sensor. If I have to measure the pressure, I hope there is a gauge port. I haven't checked for electrical specs on the sensor, but couldn't check that too. Or just replace it. it's original. Looking in the electrical cabinet, I can see it's been worked on by a hack, so no wonder there were so many codes. Lots of live wires just cut and laying. Trashy appearance. No telling what really works right and what doesn't. I'll work off the operator "crab sheet" for a start. My local dealer/service center was not familiar with the Hall Effect FNR switch. Probably mad because I was right he was wrong. He didn't sell a new computer.....which wouldn't have fixed it anyway. Any chance one of you can get me the PN? I can order from Dallas or Houston just about as easy. I think unless it's twice the money the original style is, I'll update it. Will save a headache later, I'm sure. That's about the end, or near it for this one. Already got another lined up, and I'm sure hoping someone here is a Kobelco fan. I have an excavator 20 miles from the shop (can't recall the model) that won't run. Computer full of codes (sound familiar?) and rodent damage to harness....somewhere. Looked at this one a couple of years ago and one of the codes doesn't exist, per a factory phone call.....oh well, I love a challenge. New harness is north of $10k, so planning to try repairing it. Everyone chickened out on me last time we wanted to use it, but need is more urgent now. Hate working on it where it is, and moving it seems like a project. Boom and Bucket are extended and sitting on the ground, cab is turned about 90°, so there will be some discussion about it and whether I really want to tackle it. But that's all for another thread, and I'll try to get the manufacturer correct this time. I'm really not that dumb Again, many, many thanks for making me look good! tcw
Part numbers are AT378210 (FNR), AT412433 (wire harness) and (2) 19M9384 (bolts).
TY Sir tcw
mg.....got the new parts for that FNR swap, but no info with any of it, especially on the pigtail. The two main plugs fit the machine side of the harness, but no action. Since the new lever does not have a mechanical lockout for keeping it in neutral I must assume the pigtail is related to keeping it out of drive positions electrically. As I may have hinted, the local dealer isn't a lot of help. Is there an updated schematic that will show where the pigtail goes? Or can someone tell me? It appears to have a pin to replace one in one of the connectors, but I have no idea which one. I'm surprised, and disappointed I guess that there was no "revision" drawing.
The AT412433 H Series jumper harness is connected to the 1 pin weather pack connector near the base of the steering column. This is the ground wire to the wiper circuit. It is under the steering column covers. The service jumper will tee into the wiper ground circuit. The single weather pack terminal on the jumper needs to be inserted into the spare connector cavity on the machine-side mating 4 pin weather pack connector for the FNR Lever.
Hmm, I don't recall an empty cavity on the 4 pin weather pack connector, but it's probably there. Easy to get to, someone removed all the covers and they aren't to be found. Sounds good. I'll get over there this afternoon and put it on. Even as simple as this is, you'd think a single illustration sheet would come with it. I guess maybe it covers different applications so maybe it would not be so simple as a single sheet. Oh well.....as long as I get it done. Thanks mg tcw
mg, you were correct, as I suspected. The “empty” connector was properly plugged so I just didn’t notice. All is well and I thank you. Next on the list, as of this morning is a new/used/rebuilt suspension for the cab. No wonder my back is killing me. This one has hydraulic gas-springs I would call them. And they have leaked down so the seat is flat on the bottom and very solid. New one is mucho dealer bucks so won’t happen. Need to find a supplier. Seat itself is fine. Dirty but no rips or anything. Is there a rebuild kit for these things? Naturally the owner is in a rush, but that doesn’t change availability. Got any sources to share? tcw
They do make several kits for repairing suspension seats. You would need to know exactly what you need then look at the parts page to figure out which kit. Look at this site... https://partscatalog.deere.com/jdrc...ment/64273/referrer/navigation/pgId/123826253
Interestingly, from my quick glance under the boot with a flashlight, that illustration appears to be the same style suspension package as I have on the machine. I plan on removing it Monday morning so I can get a good look at it. Since it has just settled at the bottom, it could be as a simple as a leak, which might be repairable, or a cheap part. Kind of doubt I'll find a fatal part in that simple mechanism. Thanks for that link! tcw
Now on the system illustrated, there is a bladder. That is to support the weight, as a spring would. The owner of the machine is under the impression that it is like a truck, with a engine powered compressor, that supplies all air systems on board, same as to power the trailer brakes, for instance. This machine of course, has hydraulic brakes and no air system at all to my knowledge. So....this begs the question (to settle our argument) is this bladder simply a constantly filled, closed system, or is there an external air supply required? In the case of a "flat" bladder, is there a way to refill it if there is a repairable leak? I'm planning on just replacing it. I wouldn't R&R (2x) the seat for the cost of the bladder, so to patch it is kind of ridiculous it seems to me. But if there are hoses and fittings involved, a leak look might be justified.
Electric compressor, hose (and wire) to rocker switch, hose to airbag. (All within the seat suspension assy) Push rocker one way and compressor operates and air is directed to air bag. Rocker in neutral and airbag holds. Rocker other way and airbag deflates.
OK...missed that detail in the lower left corner of the drawing. Working on laptop instead of big monitor at shop. So in that case, other possibilities open up for points of failure.....all the way back to supply voltage and switching. Which as it stands now, the compressor is not running. I haven't noticed a rocker switch so that might just be in off position, or there may be no power to the switch. Beyond that, it sounds like plumbing or airbag. It would operate without the damping shock, just would be a bit bouncy. First things first, I have to get the bladder to inflate. Working on this machine so far I have found many cut or disconnected wires, poor splices bare wires twisted together....no tape even, and everything imaginable done sloppily on the electrical system. The "12 v center tap shorted or open" code seems to be that whoever made the connections has tapped the wrong battery. 50/50 chance. I'll probably have to go back to the fusebox and trace from there to find the problem with the compressor circuit. Oh well.....I asked for it. Thanks heymccall tcw
The "switch" for the air suspension on the "J" is just a little valve/switch combo on the front side of the seat (#10 in the illustration) which receives power from the F08 10 A fuse..
I did find that switch (S32 on schematic), 2 wires and a hose connected to it. Located the circuit on the schematic. It couldn't be much simpler. No tests yet, but will check supply first. If I read the op manual correctly, the compressor will run only with key on. If power and switch check out, compressor is suspect. Already gone thru all the fuses but there were a couple missing that I didn't concern myself with while working on the trans control issue. Will review the fuses if no power to the switch. So far, I have fixed or remade about 50 connections overall, some bare twisted wires, some taped, some not, several miscrimped spade and butt connectors, corroded grounds and a few that were just not made. There are still a couple of hot wires leaving the fusebox that I haven't traced down. Could be one is the seat. I presume it's 24V? Thank you, mg tcw
Yes, 24 V.
Pump, she no run. Bladder (spring) leaky. Probably ran the pump to death once upon a time. New parts ordered. 3-4 day delivery. I'm not sure how exactly to get the seat out to maybe make this easier, but I pried it up and blocked it enough to get my hands in there. That scissor mechanism is pretty stout. Hope my blocking doesn't let go while my hands are in there. The top of the seat (cushion) was held on with sheet metal screws. Didn't look factory and now it has none in the back. No way to get to them. They broke with a little persuasion. Replacing them I'll have to figure out. Front to back slide is stuck. Release lever is stiff, and everything that is supposed to move doesn't. Should be interesting getting this seat back to factory shape. Top half on this example was held on by 2 bolts. That released the seat back so I could see a little better what I was doing. 24 to switch is there, ground is good. Switch is good. Jumped it for good measure but still no pump. This will be a good time to replace those air lines too. They are getting a little stiff. If I can contort my body enough to get it all back in there, I'll be happy. Last thing to fix on this machine is a false alarm on the service brake pressure. Dash warning light always flashing, but great brakes. Hope just a bad sensor or yet another bad connection. It's usable, but I don't want operators to get used to ignoring flashing warning lights on the dash. Then on to the Kobelco. Not really looking forward to that, but I'm going to tackle it. Assuming I can get it moved. Still puzzling on the swing brake....but that's on the other thread. Can't tell you guys how much I appreciate the help on this machine. tcw
Hi, Tony new to the forum here. Did you get your false brake alarm code to go away? I have a 544j giving the same 117.1 code. Brakes work fine, both pressure switches were replaced on the brake pedal. Code still returns, any insight on how to proceed?
Welcome to the group, Josh. Lots of smart folks here. You can get some great assistance from them. Unfortunately, I never pursued that brake alarm. Machine owner really wanted it back to work and told me I could come back to it later “when I wasn’t so busy”. Well, that was just a nice way for him to blow off fixing it. I have months of project lined up. I really think I’ll never see that machine back in the shop again. I didn’t really don’t have a recommendation for you right now, but I’ll look back at my notes and see what I wrote up on the brakes. Hopefully something helpful. Maybe someone else will chime in. I will say that my trans issue turned out to be a physical wire and you may have to dig in and do a few wiggle tests and do them again against machine ground. Many of these wires get flexed and chafed a lot so start basic and make sure the actual wires and connectors are good. I wish you success and if I can find anything helpful, I’ll post it. My 544 collection has grown to 5 I think, and am about to get another t
Alright, thanks Tony.
Welcome to HEF Josh ! Start a new thread and post a serial number. First thing to check regardless of the serial number is the pressure to the Brake Valve.
Ok, I couldn’t find anything on service advisor about the code. I’ll start a new thread. Thanks