Hey All , Can use some ideas on how to proceed I just took delivery on a nice 931 with Backhoe attachment, My first Crawler Loader, I own a PC45r-8 also , I use it on my property,I am hopeing to use them Both to help build a new home in Ct, I have no problem working on the machines,I have plenty on mechanical skills,I just don't know much about the workings on this machine,ie: adjustments,diagnosing the problem, The 931 has been well maintained Rebuilt motor, new brakes, undercarrige & Tracks that are 80% all done by Clevland Bros. Cat . 3640 Hrs total on the machine, There are a few issues , 1) Big issue is the Right side steering is not working,When I step on the right pedal the machine stops pulling both sides, the left side works normal, and the center pedal stops the machine great, Does anyone out there have some Ideas on what might be wrong or what steps I need to try to fix the steeringon the right side, I have all the floor panels off in the cab which exposes the pedal valves, All suggestions will be Greatly appreciated , 2) is a leaking seal on the Backhoe Boom Cylinder, Thanks in advance , Hope someone has some Ideas how to proceed, Thanks, Mike M.
Well I might not be the best one to answer you but here goes. In photo one number 25 is a plug on the backside of your clutch slave cylinder. which is right above your final drive and there are 4 bolt holes around it. There are the 4 holes that hold the cylinder in place. If you have a pressure gauge you can check the pressure with a long hose in the cab running it. it should be around 290 PSI. when you put your right foot on the pedel to turn. Also check in photo #2 It would be item #12 a roller bearing if it fell apart or almost apart it will not turn right. That is what supplys pressure to your clutch slave cylinder in Photo #1. It is under the floor pan on your right. You might need a mirror of if you have a camera with a probe it is way more simple that way.
Thanks, I will check those things out, How do I acess the slave Cylinder? Is it uder the seat/battery box?
You would have to remove the battery and battery box and the right hand clutch and brake cover. It would be much easier to just do a pressure test on the back fitting from photo #1 the slave cylinder is inside the clutch and brake compartment.
Hey Lilb93! I have a parts book for my 931 which is a 1974 serial # 78U 0789 , I have not been able to find the 2nd picture in my book? I am wondering if you thought mine was a 931B ? I have ordered the service manuel for my machine but I have not recieved yet, I did see the first picture in the book I have , Just wondering if anyone else has anything to add, Where should I buy a pressure gauge ? and what kind should I get? Thanks Guys, Mike M
I am wrong you dont have the valve in photo 2. you have this valve in the next photo.
I do have that photo, is that the valve attached to the right side brake pedal? there are 3 lines hooked to it, is this where you are saying to check the pressure? what kind of pressure test gauge do I need ? who do you think Harbor Frieght ,Napa,Sears,ect.would have the gauge? I have penty of tools but no pressue gauge that goes into the hundreds , what size fitting would I need to check the pressure, If I don't get the right pressure .What next? Rebuild that Valve? Sorry for so many questions , Just want to get it working good so I can do the work on my property without spending a ton of $$ on fixing the machine if I don't have too. Do you know a Great place for parts for this old machine, the rest of the machine is Great , Thanks for all your help Mike M.
The pressure should be 300Psi/trans pump pressure, need 200+ to release the clutch. If the other side works the bad side might have a broken spring. That is a pressure reducing valve, the more you compress the spring the higher the release pressure. Broken spring low pressure. Later Bob
Wow Bob ! That sounds about right! I think I will remove the valve and check it out ! The left side works as it should and the guy I bought it off said it has new brake bands on it, Do you know if and where is a good place to get rebuild parts for this old timer.(internet works) I am going to try to post a picture of the machine tonight (if I can figure out how) Any and all insight into my situation is Greatly Appreciated !! Thanks, Guys P.S.I feeling pretty Excited ! Its Great when you figure out what direction to go in !!!
Get seals and springs from dealer. Other things can be bought many places, people will advise you. Later Bob
I have the Right side (non Steering side) valve out ! Nothing seems amiss The seals and springs all seem to be in great shape, The larger sping does not seem that strong , but I have never been here before , Where to go from here ? There is an oil leak on the Good Side(LEFT SIDE) that I have not pinned down yet, It seems to be coming from under the area of the good left side valve, I think one of those hoses failed !!! Would that affect the right side at all ???? I will take the good left side valve off tommorrow and check the hoses carefully , Anymore thoughts on this problem Please Post ! Done for the day!! It is Sat. The Sun is going down along with the temperture , Thanks again, Mike M.
Could be other things too. Verify the supply oil is getting to the valve and that the hose to the cyl is letting oil through. If you have a bulkhead fitting connect the supply and cyl hoses up and try moving the machine. Later Bob
Hey All ! As I told BOB (thanks for helping) in an PM yesterday on the right that was not steering while I was finishing up for the day. I found that the return line to sump was kinked and colaspsed under the steering control valve . To day I will taking the Left side (the side that is working)steering lines off and check them, There is major tranny leak coming from under the left side valve area , there doesn't seem like there is anything else that coud be leaking in that area. At this point from what I can see , All these lines are suspect. They are 40 years old at this point. If I find that this is in fact the case (FAILED CONTROL PRESSURE LINES THERE ARE SIX OF THEM) I will change them all so I don't have to revisit this proplem again. I am keeping my fingers crossed that this will fix these problems, Does anyone know a Good sourse for the pressure lines I need ? Should I get them from Cat if I can or do they make aftermarket lines that are just as Good ? Any imput would be appreciated, You guys are great for my moral , Redeading the post inspire me to Get it Done ! Thanks All, Mike M.
Hey All ! I had Another Question(4 or 5 accually SORRY) ? If I change out all or some of the pressure lines ! DO I NEED TO BLEED THE LINES ? WHICH ONES ? AND WHERE AND HOW DO i ACOMPLISH THE BLEEDING ? THANKS, Mike M.
When you take the lines off pay close attention, and a photo or 2 may help. When i replaced mine, i took them to the Cat dealer, they need to be the right length, to long and will be hard to get back correct, also there may be an O ring that must be in the right place. Keep the old line to ck the length of tthe new lines, Also the Lobe on the bearing should not be groved out, and make sure the small bearing is in good shape, the lobe should be moving the bearing as soon you push the pedal If you remove the plug on the outside, of the clutch housing, that may help to get rid of any traped air, I think i did that a couple times after shuting down the eng. Do you have wet or dry clutches?? good luck,sam.
Hey Guys ! Today I made some progress on the left sde while checking the lines I found that the pressure line attached to the clutgh valve was on by 1 thread , I sure that was the soruce of the bad leak , I suspect that I fixed it by tighten it down ! When I get a replacement line for the right side (the side that would not steer) during the week , I will fire it up cross my fingers and hope the kinked line is the soruce of the right side steering problem ! If that works the only other issues are 1 badly leaking cyclinder on the stick and 4 or 5 slightly leaking ones, 32 degrees today and pouring rain all day ! 3 days ago I new nothing about this machine, Today I feel like I learned alot about it in a short time! I have a few pictures to prove it, Thanks for the imput ! Mike M.
That kinked line is not an original one, it looks more like a high temperature fuel/air line to me. Also it's too long and trying to install it has resulted in the kink. It's hard to see from your photo but is there something like caulking around the union at the top end of the hose..? I think maybe replacing that with the correct one, whether from Cat or a local hose shop, should improve your situation no end. I just hope than when the "will fit" hose was installed the adapters on the machine systems at both ends of the hose were not butchered in order to install it, because if so that would mean you couldn't go back to the OEM design of hose.
Hey Nige ! Thanks for the imput, I have the control valve off , Nothing looks butchered on this machine at all , The fittings look fine, I bought this from a contractor that owned it from new, (His shop looked Great along all his other equipment) ! According to him of the years he spent alot of $$$$ manitaining the machine, The whole undercarriage was done over along with the motor, All done by Clevland Cat in Pa. !! That is who I bought it off, thru consignment , Anyway , I do agree that the line is a bit long or not placed correctly. As for the look of the line, All the Lines had and partially still have a black plastic outer covering on all of them that is cracking and falling off for most of the lenth of the hose . There are pieces laying inside that area. This leads me to believe that they ARE the originals that are 40+ years old. Maybe someone Can chim in or post a picture of an original line so I can see what I looks like? I was going to my hose guy to have one made up tomorrow. Thanks, Mike M.
Ah, that explains it. What showing of the hose right now is missing the outer covering. However it still doesn't explain why the hose is kinked, it appears to be too long for the application or even have the wrong angle of fitting on one or both ends. I'd still opine that although it may be a genuine hose it likely isn't the correct hose for that particular location. One thing you need to be aware of it that the inner rubber covering of hoses can also deteriorate over time and as the pieces crack off they migrate through the system landing in all sorts of inconvenient places where thay are not wanted. You may be looking at a major re-hosing project on this machine if the rest of the hoses are in a similar state.
Thanks Nige ! You might be right, But I'm not sure I'll live that long !! I decided to go for the $43 + tax at Cat ! Just to see what the cat one looks like !(Bronx HO Penn Cat said he has to make it up also )!! I'm sure the Great hose guy at Century Rubber in L.I.C. N.Y..I would think his price is well uder that !! I will update this over the weekend, This is a weekend project for me !1 Thanks All, To be continued, Mike M.:usa Mike M.
What Part Number did they quote you for the hose in question..? I think I have found it but it is shown routed differently in the Parts Manual than your photo shows. Maybe the hose itself has gone hard over the years and taken a set, or maybe if someone was in there at some time before they just didn't bother to route it correctly when reinstalling. Also what is the S/N of your machine..? You can send it to me by PM if you don't want to post it here.
Actually if it's the one I think it is, judging by the Parts Manual illustration, the currently installed hose is too short rather than being too long.
Hey N ! The machine is a 1974 Cat 931 Serial # 78U 00789, (I posted it earlier in the thread). The part# 6s9254 which I got out of the parts book I got from the original owner, I do have the service manuel coming this week. The picture of the line just shows the Kink in the line after I extracted it from under pedal As for the routing ofthe lines! The 3 lines on each side are routed underneath the pedal and come up from underneath the control valves on each of the respeted sides. They seemed to be routed correctly in my opinion , Althought it is real tight under the pedal.The whole, valve, lines and pedal move in unison ! I think over the years that line moved forward and from flexing and age it finally collapsed and failed. That is just my take on things! Althought this is the first time I laid hands on a crawler. Man it is tight under the floor, lots of stuff going on under there! You thoughts? Thanks, Mike M.
So now we have our first problem ............ that Part Number is not for your machine. According to the system it only fits machine of S/N higher than 79U2222.......... The 6S-3531 Steering Clutch Control Group is the same for all, but the individual parts that make up the group change depending on the machine S/N. 6S-9254 is 31.5" long. The correct hose for 79U789 is a 6S-4095 and it is 34" long. Both hoses have exactly the same end fittings, only thing that changes is the length of the hose to which those fittings are crimped. That kind of supports my theory that the hose that is installed right now is too short.
Hey N ! My machine is serial # 78U00789 not what you posted serial # 79u00789 ! Did you get it the Serial # wrong?? You thoughts, Thanks , Mike M.
79U was a typo on my part. I have just double-checked and I was definitely searching under 78U prefix. All the Part Numbers and Serial Number breaks check out.
Hey N!!! I can't $%^&^% Believe it ! I just looked at the Parts Book I have and it Covers Serial # 78U3914-up !! :Banghead:Banghead:Banghead SORRY FOR THE CONFUSION !!!:notworthy I hope I can cancel the part tomorrow and get the one you told me too. The right part is part # 6s4095 , Correct ??? I am so sorry I just figured the last owner gave me the book for the machine , Unbelieveable ! I did order the service & parts manuel for serial # 78U 00789 ! I'm sure I will check the cover of the manuels when I get them . Thanks for the time and effort , Mike M.
As far as I can see the correct number is 6S4095. Have the dealer look at 6S3531 group for S/N 78U00789 just to check, it's reference #12.
Hey N !! I was able to catch The HO Penn guy in time (7:00am EST) before he made up the line, I'm glad I didn't start off on the wrong foot with the guy, I will update over the weekend , I can't wait to see if these problems are cured with these 2 revalations and fixes ! And I can't wait to get the service and parts manuel . Thanks for the imput all Thanks, Mike M
Hey Nige and anyone else that has helped !! I must applogize for No Report on the fix you were trying to help me with, Sorry for not posting the out come. Sorry for the "No Contact" !!! But the last thing I did was replace and straighten out the Hydrulic lines that go to the clutch control valves ! It was 6;20 pm when I finished in the dark 3 weeks ago, Since that day we have not had a nice day weather wise to even test out the machince , Between the snow and extreme cold, I have not gotten to see if that fixed my problem! This week I am leaving for a Baja 2 week trip, I hope the weather will be better when I return , I will Report the outcome of the fix A.S.A.P. !!! The suspense is killing me !! I just got the machine and I don't want to put undue strain on the starter try to get in running in single to sub zero weather! I am deciding just to wait, I am not planning any work with it till the spring, I am confident the Hydrulic line fix will cure the steering problem. But will see ! The Suspense is killing me !! Thanks for all your help it is Great to be able to pick everyones Brain(and benifit from your experiance) !!! Thanks, Mike M.
No way that I could've waited, I would've fired it up as soon as I had the lines on and before I buttoned up the panels and moved it enough to see if it turned. I'm impressed with your patience.
The suspense is killing me too. If you will tell me where exactly the machine is, I'll go test it out for you and call you in Baja to let you know if your fix worked its magic.
Hey Guys, Well it was a though winter for working on things outside, plenty of snow and real cold in New England, As for the 931, I did fire it up last week and try out the new lines , and to my disappointment it still is not disengageing on the right side. so no turning right, Nige did say he suspect something more than just the lines, So today I am picking up the parts (SPRINGS AND SEALS) to rebuild the cluch control valve, I am thinking this is the way to go for now , if this doesn't do it, I will start looking into the cluch adjustment at the rear near the clutch, I also rebuilt tne stick cylinder(the seals were in pieces) and bought the kits for the rest of the cylinders (9 others) this week, Great price on e-bay (Reliable after market parts in Michigan) The deal is only good if you buy it on ebay 2 1/2 Xs the price if you call. On ebay they average $18 a kit for each cylinder, Headed up this morning hopefully get more done, I can't wait to get the steering figured out!!! Any suggestions well appreciated !! Sorry I took so long to report back, I other irons in the fire also, Thanks Guys,:usa Mike M.
Well Men ! I have taken the right side clutch control valve out and apart to replace springs and seals. It turns out the larger spring in the valve now is 1,29mm shorter and 1.46mm dia. larger than the new spring which is defintely the correct part (bought parts from cat dealer) AMAZING:beatsme! So I nstalled all the new parts and the plunger on the valve now seems a bit harder to the touch . Tomorrow I will reinstall it,(FOR THE 3rd.TIME):Banghead:duh:crying One thing for sure I am getting much better at it ! I also installed the stick cylinder I rebuilt during the week(only 9 more to go ,but I enjoy doing that stuff), I will report back tomorrow if that does the trick on the right side steering, All commets and advice always appreciated, Thanks, Mike M.
Well !!! I reinstalled the rebuilt right side clutch control valve !! Fire it up !! And to my dismay , The right side steering, STILL IS NOT WORKING! Can Someone Please give an Idea on what to check now!!! I am sure it is under the seat but I really don't know what to check next? If someone would mind chiming in and giving me a idea on how to proceed it would be a Great Help, I do know I need to buy a hydraulic pressure gauge to check system pressure, I don't know what kind of gauge and where to get it? I don't think it is that though because the left side steering operates as it should!! I am starting to get a little worried this is going to be a bigger fix than I anticipated !! ALL AND ANY Words of WISDOM AND ENCOURAGEMEANT WILL BE A PLUS !!!! THANKS, Mike M.
Trainbuff, could I point out the fact that the First man to answer your post was telling you exactly the correct method to find your steering fault, so I am enquiring if you managed to stuff a gauge into the slave cylinders to check this point, or did you think it better to waste coins on things for no reason, a gauge (600psi)and a bit of 1/4" hose will only cost around £25 from any Factor or Hydraulic supply outlet, the first poster had all the correct info you needed to sort things, so I suggest you make the effort to approach this task like you need it working. tctractors
Tctractor, could I point out the fact that this is being done in my spare time as (sort of a thing I like to do) not as a job! Also as I said in the first post and further along in later post "I just bought the machine and new nothing about it or what was done to it in the past" ! The first problem that need to addressed was a major leak coming out from under the flooring !!! tctractor! Are you suggesting that I just ignore that major leak and put a gauge on the pressure line and see what the operateing pressure is !!!! Also when I fixed that I found another line coming off the clucth control valve that had been kinked! Should I not have fixed either? (I also explain that in my later post) I am proceeding in methodical direction from the begining to the end till I fix and elimate all the problems along the way! Now I am at the point where I will test the pressure at the clutch cylinder !! (I needed to address other issues first and also had a very hard and snowy winter here so working outside was not an option unless you absolutly had to and I did not have to!) I will check the pressure when I get back from Easter Vaction out West ! Also All the input that the others gave me was FANTASTIC:thumbsup:notworthy And hope if I need further advice I hope they will help me out! tctactors also if I was a Catapilliar Mechanic I would not be on this forum looking for advice I would alresdy know how to fix it!!! So I do apprciate your input but I'm not sure if you read all my post and seen there were also other things going on that need to be takien care of and I have no time issues having to get it done fast. Obviously I would like to get done as soon as possible but I am also doing many,many other things in my life,I hope you can understand !!! I am not on the forum to waste anyones time I just need some advice and help with machince I have, Thanks To All,:thumbsup:usa Mike M
When I see the same question posted on other Forums and people taking trouble to answer in a very correct way, I must admit It Pops me off some, I would suggest you go back to page 1 and take the action suggested, as its not a front line item and you have plenty of time to follow your "Methodical Direction" I am sure you will manage to fix and eliminate all your problems and possibly get the little Cat fixed as well. best of luck tctractors
:update:update:update Hey All !!! Sorry I have not gotten back for a while!! All the advice all gave was Great and informative, Unfortanately I was hopeing for an easy fix for my steering problem! Anyway I put off working on the steering for the last few moths and rebuilt all the cylinders on the backhoe attachment and afew on the loader that were leaking ! That all worked out Great and now I am back to the steering issue! When I last look at that I need to check the pressure in the line before it went into the clutch housing, I have done that and the pressure seem good at 240 psi ! So I finally realised there was a real problem inside the housing, (like a few suggested) Anyway that is where I am at !!! Yesterday I opened it up !! (the Cluch/Brake housing) And there it was PLAIN AS DAY!!! :shf I am pretty sure it is a dry clutch, ser# 78U00789 CIRCA 1974 ! The clutch housing compartment had 1.5-2 inches of water in the bottom !! OMG :dizzy:Banghead !!! And everything inside the clutch drum/Brake and Yoke assembly are rusted pretty badly !! The brake ban does not look too badly. The guy I bought it from said he had the brake bans done not to long ago. I figure WHOEVER did the job did not seal the compartment when he closed it. Also it took me a little time while looking at it to figure why the clutch was not disengauging? But I think there is a problem with the nut that tightens the Yoke assembly that disengauges the clutch is loose or not right(cannot tell till it comes out), The Yoke moves a half of an inch or more around the base of the fork on the shaft (THIS DOES NOT SEEM CORRECT) hopefully someone can advise me on this?, I am sure the clutch is siezed in place While engauged (That is why it still pulls strong) I AM in the process of remove the CLUTCH/BRAKE assembly,(MUCH BIGGER JOB THAN EXPECTED) BUT I AM ALL IN AT THIS POINT. I guess I need to jack the OLD GUY up at this point! I am reading up on the fix right now trying to educate myself on the fix, All Coaching and Advice ,Suggestions , Cheering or Ribbing will be greatly appreciated:notworthy, THANKS, MIKE M.:usa:thumbsup
Check that the pivot ball on the bottom of the yoke goes into the bearing. It may have not entered it on assembly, if so just lift the clutch up and put it in then bolt the clutch back in. Another think is the release bearing may have failed and clutch need to come out. Later Bob
The pivot ball is in the rear wall of the case, the problem I see is the center of the yoke is not fasten in the center around the center shaft. Is that the release bearing you are talking about Bob ? If so I think you hit the nail on the head! It seems like something is not right with the clucth/Yoke assembly, I cannot see in there , but I can see the edge of the inside of the drum about 1/3" is really rusted and looks like the clucth has not diengaged in a long time, In my opinion I will have to take the clutch out to see what is really going on !! I will have to get the water out of it and derust everything! it will take me a few days to get to it ! Thanks, Mike M. P.S. I cannot figure out how to upload photos to the site.
I think the release bearing has come apart, clutch will need to come out to replace. Later Bob
Hey BOB, I just looked under the rear at spot the clutch/brake is located. There is a bolt protruding out from the center where the assembly is located, it is encircled by a protective steel sheild ! The Questions I have are, What is the purpose of this bolt(does it help in aligning the flange when installing or? ), Also is this bolt threaded into the brake band or is the brake band just resting on this bolt, If you answer these questions it would be helpful to me understanding this clutch/brake setup !! Thanks so much, Mike M.
Hey All, I finally found the clutch problem, Besides all the water and rust in the right clutch compartment, The YOKE BEARING IS DESTROYED! I have the clucth out !! I was able to get the brake band and drum off the clutch , My problem now is taking the large nut off figureing out how the spring retainers work on the clutch so I can take it apart , If anyone has suggestions on how to proceed please help me out and share the info with me, I'm pretty sure I will get the large nut off I just have to make hold down set up so I can get some leverage on it, All advice will be appreciated !! If it wasen't for everyones help on this site I would not have gotten this far!!! I can almost see the light at the end of the tunnel!! Thanks, Mike M.
You need manual to get it apart with no damage. Stub shaft needs to be pressed out and in again. only press to 8 ton not 20 as per manual or you will destroy the clutch hub. Later Bob
Thanks Bob I do have the manuel but it is not clear how to get spring retainers off, I'm sure I will figure it out after a while! thanks, Mike M.
You need the right manual, it is in it. The disassembly and assembly section. Later Bob
Yes Bob ! You are right , I went back to the book and read it again, I got the nut off , I am in the process of looking for a puller that will get it apart, Thanks, Mike M.
Some oictures of the clutch and compartment !
A few minutes in the shotblast cabinet and those parts will look as good as new .......
Yes That would be Great Nige (if I had one) But I will get it clean up and painted before it goes back in. I must say Nige you guys were right about thinking it was not going to be some "Fantasy Easy Fix" of mine, I first have to press the clutch apart I have one some I will have to go out and buy something, I was looking at the cheap Harbor Freight 20ton press, I hope that will do it. The local HO Penn Dealer said they get $179 an hour to do some work and he doen't know how long it will take, So I am not in a hurry to go there, If I buy the press I'll have it for the next job. Thanks for the encouragement, Mike M.
Hire them, you only need the bearing changed for now. Press the stub shaft out and back in (only to 10 ton) and replace the release bearing. Later Bob
Hey All, While I have this torn down I am replacing as many parts as I can that are worn, So this Question is , Does anyone know if the ball on the end of the Yoke is supose to rotate or stay in a fixed postion? I have the old one off and waiting for the new one to arrive! The old one was frozen in place! Also should I grease the whole in the compartment where the Yoke end sits? Thanks Guys , Mike M. P.S. I was not able the press the stub saft out with a 20ton press, I had to bring it to a garage, He has an 80 ton press , He gave me the whole "this thing might break" speech ! Hopefully he will get back to me today with the news, Leaving Thurs for Indianapolis for the Moto GP this weekend , hopefully start reassemblely next Tues , (If they don't break the clutch plate) Yikes !
If your talking about the ball and socket on the steering clutch arm, the shop that rebuilt my steering clutches said not to use grease like it says in the manual because it just attracts dirt and brake dust and everything else. They said to use a spray dry graphite on the ball and bushing. The bushing in the steering clutch is replaceable too but a pain to get out. I tried heating it with a torch and no go. I ended carefully cutting them in half with a cutting torch and then using a hammer and big chisel in the notches I made to turn it. I had them cut just about all the way through and after a bunch of hammering, they finally broke the last little bit holding them together and came out. They were a bugger to pound back in. I'd suggest getting some dry ice to freeze them really good. I think the yokes can turn but never really checked.
This Clutch is like an "Artichoke" :eek almost at the center! Mike M.
Hey all ! I finally was able to get everything apart,the release bearing was so frozen the outer race had to be cut and broken out a few more pictures of the parts. The only salvageable parts were the spindle hub,clutch springs ,retainers and the yoke. Waiting for the inner and outer clutch plate and drum, it should come today. I have been getting parts from CEA Services in Fla. (813)365-2273 Claudia You do need to have the part #s . They have the best prices and cheapest shipping I was able to find, More to come , hope to start reassembling tomorrow, I have learned so much from this rebuild, Thanks to the help from this forum, Thanks all, Mike M.
I Finally got the Clutch assembly put back together, Hopefully will get it put in tomorrow,
That is some nice looking work! Excellent idea to hold the work for assembly with the trailer hitch.
Thanks Nitlite, You can work like that when you just have the machine for personal use and not pressed for time, On Another Issue, While Cleaning up the Track rails , I noticed theses to things 1) The nuts on the back of the track springs look very different on both sides,Attaching pictures. ( I am thinking the left side spring broke at some point and was replaced by later model but don't know) there are no issues just curious ! Make one of the Senior members can let me know there opinion on the springs, 2) While cleaning the ride side Sproket I noticed these cracks,I am hoping to weld it up before taking it off the blocks, If anyone has advice on the weld fix that would be Great! Thanks, Out of town tonite 10 days in Maine and a week in Texas before school stars, I'll finish up when I return, Thanks Guys Mike M :notworthy :usa
Better Photos
The nut on the unpainted frame is correct. They are supposed to be backed off and jammed on the end of bolt with washer and bolt. Later Bob
I would weld the cracks in the sprocket. You can see where someone has done some crack welding before on that sprocket.
Hey Bob, Thanks for that info. I'll pot that on my to do list, Nitlite yes there is diffinetly a previous crack fix, It should be an easy weld evrything seems to be lined up real good, I am going to grind a bit of a VEE in the cracks so I maxamize penertration. As for Progress , I was able to get the Clutch/Brake assembly bolted in and Yoke adjusted, (I needed to shoehorn it in with a medium size Persauder Bar) Ran out of time and will finish up when I return from my trips, Life has a way getting in the way of my projects, But I need to keep everyone Happy , More Pictures, Thanks Guys Mike M.
Hey Guys, I am looking for the "Yoke Stop Screw Adjusting procedure" for the steering Clutch that I am installing on my 931 ! I cannot find it in my manuel ! The assembly part of the manuel refers me to the testing and adjusting section , But in my manuel in the testing and adjusting section where I think it would be page #18 IS BLANK !:Banghead Any help would be Greatly appreciated , If it wasn't for this forum I would really be lost you Guys, Thanks a million, Mike M.:notworthy:usa
Is this what you're looking for..? Procedure 1. Release the brake pedals. 2. Make sure there are no bent linkages. 3. Loosen nut (5). 4. Move piston (6) out to dimension (A). 5. Make adjustment to rod (3) by turning nut (2) so it is against yoke (1). 6. Tighten nut (5). 7. Loosen nut (8) and turn bolt (7) to dimension (B) between steering clutch housing (4) and bolt (7). Tighten nut (8). (A) Dimension end of piston is to be from end of cylinder ... 1.0 in.(25.4 mm) (B) Dimension between steering clutch housing and bolt ... .39 in.(10.0 mm)
That should do it, Thanks, Nige As they say in N.Y. , Your a Real "Mensche" It's a Complement, in Yiddish it means (I'm not Jewish but grew up in N.Y.) A GREAT ,FABULOUS,WONDERFUL,SOMEONE YOU CAN COUNT ON GUY, ECT,ECT,ect,ect. Hope you get the point, Thanks, Mike M.
Hey All, Well guys I fired the 931 up today to test out the Steering clutch you guys have been helping me with, It is still on blocks and the compartment is still open (I figured if there was a problem I could easily check it out), I put it into gear and stepped on the pedal(I had the brake rod fastened to test the fix) YEEEEE !!!!! HAAAAAA !!!!!!!! The Son of a gun Works:drinkup:drinkup:drinkup (although I Don't Drink any Acohol Anymore), That was It !! Thanks for all the help, It would have been much harder and Less likly to attempt to fix it myself if you guys were not avaible to answer my questions and giving me advice, I will finish it up and send some pictures along, I just sent for some cat stickers , Does anyone know if I need to bleed the Slave Cylinder to get any air out ? If so is it done while running or what is the procedure, Thanks. Mike M. :usa