I got to replace the grease fitting. How do you remove the grease fitting without removing the metal plate. The slots are slightly smaller that the fitting. The rock guard will be a pain-in-the-rear to remove because of the worn off heads. Thanks....J rear to remove because of the worn off heads
I guess that's a safety deal, designed to prevent you from removing the fill valve under pressure and having it fill your eye socket with valve and high pressure grease? The approved method to release pressure of course is to loosen the also captive relief valve first. Now that I've rambled on with my inane thoughts, the usual method seems to be to use a cutting torch to open up that hole big enough for a socket. Ugly, but very effective. YMMV What holds that plate on, is it bolted or is it just held in place by the grease valve and relief valve? If you do decide to remove the rock guard I've found that heating the bolt heads to a nice cherry red and then letting them cool completely will usually loosen the bolt threads. Of course once you unbolt the rock guard it will take two gorillas and a small boy with a large hammer to make it fit again as it will be sprung out of shape.
Thanks lantraxco. I knew they (Cat) went to a lot of expense to put a plate there and it had to be there for a reason. I think I will go with your first method of cutting the hole wider.
Lantraxco. I used a small wheel grinder. Only took about 10 minutes. Can't imaging how long it would take to get those rock guards off. And by the way, I bought this dozer near you...Myrtle Point.
Was just up there at the county fair end of July I think it was. Pretty quiet place now, and Powers is a ghost town basically. Did you get a good deal on it? Yeah, sometimes safety stuff is more hassle than it's worth, a bit of common sense is a better thing, and it's usually free
Lantraxco, I have another problem that may be more of a challenge for you. I am new to the site so I am not sure if you will pick up on this old thread. Oh, I always get a good deal....
Why do you need to replace the grease fitting? Usually, if the fitting will not take grease it is because the track is adjusted all the way out and as far as it will go. You can verify that fact if the front idler is adjusted all the way out against the front stop.
Thanks, but I had already check that. No problem since changing the grease fitting. Now I have a problem with the starter. You senior members may advised...should I start a new post? Anyway, we traced it down and determined it was the the solenoid switch (cranked it up bypassing the switch). In installing the new one, the wires got hot. Pull it back off and notice there is power feeding through the wires. So is something stuck on or what?
Which wires? Solenoid switch on the starter? There's usually a starter relay between the key switch and the solenoid also, a 9F3099, looks like an old metal case Ford starter solenoid relay, is that what you're describing?
I think it was the main battery when touching the terminal. However, it wasn't a big spark but there should not have been a spark at all. I am the helper....I have a friend, a retired heavy equipment mechanic but not familiar with the cat. I will double check with him in the AM. In the book, what I call a solenoid switch, cat calls it a magnetic switch. Next to this switch is a small relay switch (I think that is what it is call). So what should I check out next?
Found this tidbit: D3B Tractors; 910, 931, 931B Loaders With 4N241 Motor Group There have been reports of the starters that remain engaged after the engine is running. The problem may be caused by an open shunt field winding. The shunt field winding is inside of two opposite field coils. Damage to the shunt field winding is caused by starter motors that have overheated from extended periods of cranking or by faulty (sticking) start switches. If the shunt field winding is open, the magnetic switch (starter solenoid) will not drop out. Use a 6V3030, 6V7070, or 6V7800 Multimeter to test the shunt field winding. Touch the negative test probe to the starter motor case and the positive test probe to the shunt field winding terminal. See the illustration. The correct resistance for the shunt field winding should be 0.6 or 0.7 ohms. If the shunt field winding is open, replace the field coils with a 4N7553 Field Kit. http://ww2.justanswer.com/uploads/DIRTWRENCH/2011-03-26_041309_4n241_info.pdf Read more: http://www.justanswer.com/heavy-equ...iagram-cat-d3-1985-starter.html#ixzz3nCCw0FKk
Thanks lantraxco. Last resort is taking the starter out. We can crank the dozer by by-passing the starter. So are you saying that it can still be the starter and that can cause the solenoid/magnetic switch to go bad? Please, let it be an electric issue somewhere
A spark when connecting up the battery cable is normal, IF the master switch is on. That's why CAT put master switches on these machines, so the batteries wouldn't go dead after setting for a few days. Not sure why your wires heated up, may be a short of some kind, or something miswired. The problem described above, if the shunt in the starter opens up they're saying the solenoid won't drop out and the starter will continue to run, if this is happening things would get hot pretty quick I would think. I can't for the life of me understand how that could work, but obviously it must happen because they printed a service letter on it.