Looking for some help.I got a 938g the transmission gauge has been acting up . It’s bouncing to the hot then back down , all over the place on the cluster .what would cause this ?? Changed transmission oil and filter. Oil looked good. New tranny temp sensor as well . Any ideas ?
I don't know about a G, how new that is and what technology it has. In the old days, a sensor wire that was shorted to ground would cause the gauge to jump to the top of the range. You could short the wire to ground at the sender and see if the gauge jumps to high, and then run a jumper wire from the gauge to the sender to see if it stabilizes with the old wire disconnected.
Possibly a wire shorting out ?
yes, short the wire at the sensor, the gauge should jump to high. A short anywhere in the line will do the same thing. That's the OLD style of gauges, I can't say what this one has, but easy enough to check on the machine.
You could well have a wiring hanress issue, either a short somewhere or a bad (loose/damaged) connector. First you need electrical schematic, and to get the correct one will require the machine Serial Number. Once we have Serial Number then maybe we can look at the possibility of obtaining Diagnostic Codes - this might also help to identify what the problem is regarding the transmission temperature gauge. Either way the schematic will help you because it will identify the exact location of all the connectors in the wiring harness between the temperature sender and the gauge.
Ok thanks for the input.I’ll look into finding a schematic . We’re would I find one ? I have the vin #
Post the Serial Number. I'll send you a schematic.
0938gtrtbo15611561
Sent you a PM with the schematic. Now I have the S/No I'll look into it and see how difficult it is to find Diagnostic Codes. Stay tuned.
Bad news I'm afraid. You have a 938G Series II and there is no way of identifying Diagnostic Codes without using Cat ET. In the older Series I models the Codes could be identified by using nothing more than a short length of automotive wire in the Harness Code Plug, but not in this one.
Good evening....I have a 938g series 2 prefix RTB2 With these errors 36 96 3 ... 81 70 3... 81 1401 5... 81 1403 5... 81 1404 5... 81 1405 5... 81 1406 5... The machine has problems applying first speed, it only applies when placing the lever forward, the second time the same happens when applying reverse, it does not apply except when placing the lever in Neutral and then reapply reverse It only applies second gear and third gear is applied and then neutralized within a few seconds of applying it...I appreciate any guidance
Are all those Codes Active.? 36 96 3 ... Fuel level sender circuit voltage above normal. 81 70 3... Parking Brake Switch. Both NC and NO switch inputs to the ECM showing the same signal. 81 1401 5... FWD Low clutch solenoid current below normal 81 1403 5... REV clutch solenoid current below normal 81 1404 5... Speed Clutch #2 solenoid current below normal 81 1405 5... Speed Clutch #3 solenoid current below normal 81 1406 5... Speed Clutch #1 solenoid current below normal
All active codes mr nige
The resistance measurement of all the solenoid coils of the transmission is 11.6 ohms
According to the electrical schematic the solenoid coil specification is 31 ± 3 ohms. However I wonder why you only have Active Codes for 5 out of the 6 solenoid valves in the transmission.? You don't have a 1402-5 Code for the FWD High clutch. So if the resistance of all 6 solenoid coils measures the same why is that Code also not coming up. Are the solenoid coils genuine OEM or aftermarket.?
Me dirijo a usted por la misma pregunta... Sé que la resistencia debe medir 31+ o - 3 ohmios. To clarify my doubts I proceeded to measure the resistance of the solenoid coils.From another machine with the same prefix RTB2 and all its solenoids measured 12 ohms in their coils Making all your changes perfect the only event that occurs is that you do not make automatic changes 1-4 of the rest The machine works well..that's why I turn to your experience to find out what might be happening.
yoThe coils are original in the machines, we disassembled them all and checked that they were not damaged.Mechanics of the solenoid or valve and is in good condition
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There is no system that locks the front axle as far as I know. There is an optional locking differential for the front axle but your particular machine was not fitted with that option when it was built. It has a standard “open” differential installed. Try these tests/inspections in the sequence they appear below. If a test gives negative results then move to the next test. I assume that the front driveshaft is still removed.? If it has been replaced then you will need to remove it again. 1. Place chocks (calzos) at the rear wheels so that the machine cannot move. Start the engine and release the parking brake. Loosen the service brake hydraulic line for the front axle in the articulation area and check for any hydraulic pressure in the service brake system that might be causing the front axle brakes to apply. 2. Raise up the front axle so that both tyres are clear of the ground. Block the front axle securely. Try to rotate each front wheel independently. Do they move.? 3. Remove the oil fill plug from the axle and try to obtain a sample of oil from it. Does it appear to have any metal in it.? 4. If you are not 100% sure about the oil condition then remove the drain plug (you can temporarily use the fill plug to replace it) and inspect the magnet for metal particles. 5. Install two of the bolts for the universal joint on the flange of the front differential and use them to secure a long bar or pipe. Try to rotate the front differential input flange in both directions. If none of the above steps indicate the problem please advise.
AgradecidoThank you, Mr. Nige... I'll give the mechanics instructions... Good night