I have a Cat 943 that I have used in the farm for several years. It's a good machine that I've used to clear land and dig a pond. I've noticed recently that the pivot bars on both sides are rotating around with use where the access cap to add fluid will be pointed toward the ground one day and up in a different direction the next. is this something I need to get on and fix by spot welding it in the correct position, get a bushing to keep this from going on or just leave it alone. Thanks for any help.
I'm not sure about what you are calling pivot bar. Can you post a few pics to explain?
I don't see how to post a pic to this thread. Is there a way or do I need to email u one.
t Hope these pics work
Yep, that's not a good thing. The permanent fix is to weld and bore the track frame and possibly turn the pivot shaft housing undersize. I wouldn't advise welding it together unless you're desperate. You could try removing the caps and putting some sheet steel shims in to take up the gap. Whilst you have the caps removed, lift the pivot shaft clear of the track frame and check it for wear. Also check the ends of the equalizer bar for play.
Cmark , could he have the caps machined down so they would clamp down again or is that a bad idea?
It could be worth a try, however you would then have an oval hole and without a round hole clamping a round housing I think it would only be a temporary fix.
Cmark , I have another question but my need to start a new thread. I need to remove the swing arms to install new idlers , I tried pressing off with the threaded holes but they are rotted and stripping out. Or I may not have all the hardware loose to remove it.
The arms are held on the shaft with a taper pin retained by a bolt and washer. Have you got your new idlers? They usually come complete with the arms already fitted.
I have what I refer to as a raw idler. I have to remove my arms and install them. My new idler has only the shaft which is about 2" in diameter out each side. They told me the 53 and 63 came with the arms , not the 43. I removed all the bolts , is there a wedge or keeper down inside that locks the arm to the shaft?
Yes that's right. Have you got new duo-cone seals as well? Also you will need to fill it with oil.
I removed the bolt and washer , I guess I have to drive the wedge out the back side? I'll try to post a pic of the new parts and explain more. Thank you for your help. I have 3 machines , and all 3 are being worked on this week. I fixed my dozer ac , and I'm changing these uc parts myself. The backhoe needed more done than I had rigging to do as far as gantry crains to remove boom. I need to get back running to get some money flowing. Once again thanks.
Yes, it's a cotter.
Use a long punch to drive the wedge out. Yes it comes out the opposite end of the bolt head. The wedges are sometimes hard to get out of there. You may have to blow a hole through the wedge to get it to release. If you have never assembled an idler it's a big job for the first timer that doesn't have someone instructing them. As said above you need new duo cones seals and shaft orings. Everything needs to be as clean as possible so no dirt gets onto the seals. Don't nick the orings when installing the swing links on the shaft. If you don't get it sealed correctly you being losing oil immediately and you idler will shell out after a few hundred hours. James
I got it all put together a week ago and put oil in the idlers. So far I have not seen any sign of oil leaking. One question I had and my book didn't give a capacity is how much oil goes in the idler. I put about a half pint in each one but I can add if needed. I have pics on the other thread 943 undercarriage. BTW did the op get his pivot shaft worked out? Or have any solutions yet?
Half pint probably about that. Somewhere I have specifications for how much oil but I don't remember where it is. Two ways to oil them. Mechanically using tools and manually by pouring it in. Pouring it in I always laid the idler at about 45 degree angle so as the oil drained into the center cavity it was able to force the air out. It's a slow process as the oil goes down add a little more. Once the oil stops moving and you don't see any air bubbles coming out stand the idler up vertically and if you have oil draining out of the hole install the plug. You don't want it 100% full as it builds pressure inside once you run it and it's going to find it's way out. Minimum of 50% to 70% oil. The other way the oil is injected via pressure but you have to have tools. Didn't mean to hijack the OP threads. James