Just purchased a 2000 CAT 950G sight unseen from an auction, price was cheap, got it brought home to the farm so we can push snow and I can use it with my business. Got tearing into it right away, interior was a disaster, mulch and mulch dust everywhere. Blew out interior for two hours, and then pressure washed exterior for 3 hours. Tilt steering strut was toast, so temporarily I put a 1” square tube in there to fix the steering at a set point. Interior panels didn’t have screws, put some in. No exterior mirrors. Bucket has cutting edge segments, and corner adapters, but no teeth or bolt on adapters. Probably going to put straight blades on it. Seat was garbage, replaced it with another mechanical spring ride seat. engine oil filter says it was changed, engine oil said otherwise. Changed the engine oil and filter. Cleaned air filter. Driver side door hinge was bent and could barely close or open the door so took the door off and straightened it. Passenger window is plexiglass and the frame wasn’t aligned so removed it, resealed the plexiglass, put extra screws in to secure, and put back on and aligned the hinges so it would actually seal a little. Hood actuator is toast, have to lift hood manually. The actuator body itself is there, the motor is not. AC compressor was seized, clutch toast, shaft broke, removed that. Now the engine oil pressure sensor seems to have failed, it has 5v going to it, but the ground wire isn’t grounding through the block, resistance on the signal wire to ground is 0.001ohms. Now the ugly part, the codes, this is what I have figured out so far. 030 0096.03 - fuel level sensor 030 0110.08 - communication fault speed sensor 030 0263.04 - sensor voltage trans oil temp 030 0271.05 - transmission speed sensor wiring 030 0821.04 - display datalink fault 081 0041.04 - 081 0168.01 - throttle position sensor fault 081 0562.09 - data link display erratic 081 0631.07 - 081 0632.07 - 081 0633.07 - 081 0672.02 - output speed sensor fault 081 0673.02 - issue trans speed sensor Here’s a picture when it first showed up.
Post a Serial Number. There must be 20 different flavours of 950G. It would be nice to know which one you have. Regarding the Diagnostic Codes. Which ones out of that long list are Active, or is it all of them.?
Bucket looks good, looks like they had teeth on it at some point.
For some reason I thought I posted it, I had intentions to for sure. My apologies. 3JW014718 I’m not sure which ones are active, how do I tell again? My 973c has been so good with codes I’ve never really had to deal with them. Bucket isn’t that bad, looks like it was a mulch machine because I found half a yard of mulch in the cab, and a bunch of paperwork for product numbers and weights for mulch. The cutting edge segments are brand new. The corner adapters are as well it looks like.
Too many digits (6) after the 3JW. Should only be 5. As you scroll through the list of Codes keep an eye on the SERV CODE icon in the RH side of the display window. If it's lit the Code is Active. If it's not lit, the Code is Logged. Check out the Click Box thread. It may pay you to do the McGyver solution and erase all the Logged Codes first. That way you ought to end up with a much more manageable list of Active Codes.
Sorry accidentally put an 8 at the end.
No worries. Date of Manuafacture 13th March 2000. Let's hope it does not prove unlucky.
These are the two active codes i have found on the dash display that show the "serv code" while going through. None of the others do. I also haven't had time to make a click box. I ordered an AC compressor, belt, oil pressure sender/sensor, i dont want to use the machine at all until i have the oil pressure issue resolved, it was working when it got dropped off. If this doesn't fix it, i'll have to get a mechanical pressure gauge and put it on the test port. Also got a cheapie vacuum pump for the AC system for when i put it back together.
Take a look at Page 3 of the Click Box thread, specifically Posts 50-52. You can do something temporary to erase Logged Codes with no more than a couple of short pieces of wire and 3 Deutsch connector sockets. Check your message inbox.
Hopefully it was just used in mulch and the corner tooth adaptors aren't worn. Seems dumb to put them on with no teeth. You're putting together a pretty good assortment of equipment.
Given the front tires, and missing teeth/shanks, best guess is it was last used for snow removal
The short sections on the cutting edge wouldn't be ideal for snow clearing.
Okay, so haven’t had much time to figure things out. But here’s what’s developed. Oil pressure sensor was intermittently failing. Replaced it, no issues since. Torque converter speed sensor failed, with Nige’s help I was able to determine it had also failed. Replaced it, no more code. With the two important things fixed, I finally got some time to use it on the farm to pile up some rows of dirt. Which has led me to a couple more issues. First gear works, but then cuts out in a short time frame when pushing into a pile. Second gear works, and then I can go back into first gear and it works again. Second issue, it got hot, for no reason. Coolant level is fine, top radiator hose was hot, bottom was barely warm, but engine temperature wouldn’t go down. Short of replacing the water pump, I wanted to see if the pump was going. So I opened the valves to send coolant to the cab heater, and they got warm and it started blowing hot air in the cab. I decided while I was opening the hood I’d try and blow out the radiator, and I don’t understand how they were using the machine in the condition it was. The radiator was and still is so full of dust and dirt and mulch, I spent better part of an hour and a half with the air compressor blowing it out. There is a layer of dust and debris all on the ground surrounding where the machine was parked. And the roof of my shop is brown from so much crap coming out. I got tired of doing it that way so I took the garden hose to it to try and flush it out better. It’s still plugged up. But anyways, I figured the pump is pumping coolant into the heater core, the thermostat must be going out. So I just replaced the thermostat, and it got me thinking. Which way is the fan supposed to to be pushing air? From the engine compartment out the back? Or from the back of the machine into the engine compartment and out the vent in the top of the hood? It’s hydraulically operated, and I have two switches in the cab that I have no idea what they do. Currently, the fan is sucking air from the engine compartment and blowing it out the back of the machine. Third issue, the relief valve for the hydraulics seems to not be functioning. When I use the third lever for the auxiliary it instantly loads the motor down and could stall it if held it. And when I max out the hydraulics for the bucket, I could stall the machine when I push the bucket down to lift the tires when the cylinders max out. Fourth issue, no ride control, no functioning float. I’m guessing accumulator issues? No nitrogen charge? Fifth issue, ordered new magnetic tilt sensors for return to dig and height. They have the same ends as the machine, so I can’t connect them together. I ordered a connector kit I can change them over, I’m guessing that shouldn’t be an issue? Also, the bucket corner adapters are in very good shape still. So good I’m contemplating putting them on my 973C since they have the two bolt style instead of the one bolt like my track loader, I had to weld them to the bucket so they would stop rocking up and down.
Pressure gauge time. See the attachment. Get an Operation & Maintenance Manual.? You're going to need one sooner rather than later anyway. Cat Publication reference is SEBU7018. After checking the electrics the accumulator would be my next suggestion. Did I send you an electrical schematic.? I forget. That's the way it's supposed to blow unless you have some weird and wonderful reversible fan fitted. The system doesn't say anything about that. Is the fan belt-driven or by a hydraulic motor.? Pull the whoie assembly out of the machine and strip off all the shrouds. You'll never get it properly clean until you do.
Another update, the transmission fluid was red, and has a leak coming down from the top of the transmission going down behind the sight glass, I fixed the fill tube because the hose was leaking that connects the two pieces and sure enough. It’s ATF, the smell, feel, and look of it. I thought it may be foaming in the transmission and coming out of the breather up top of the transmission from what I could see. Quick little read on the cat website, not a good thing to have in the transmission. I got a new filter and two pails of proper fluid and drained and filled it back up. The transmission doesn’t kick out of first gear anymore, but it still feels like it’s slipping. 4th gear doesn’t have any umpf, RPM goes up but doesn’t seem to accelerate like I feel it should. Last night I pressure washed under the cab as best I could and tried to clean up the transmission so I could see where it was leaking from, but I barely got done the fluid change and it started to thunderstorm so I will leave that for another day to investigate.
1148947 GEAR GP-OUTPUT TRANSFER 1570955: GEAR GP-OUTPUT TRANSFER breather part number is #52 and the part number is 9G-5127: BREATHER ASSEMBLY The oil comes out of the breather and goes down the side of the transmission, I've been reading other posts where the breather is a recommendation to replace it, Nige said $10 part in an older post, but its now $28.31, crazy how inflation has made things jump so much. replacing the breather looks easier said then done, access to get to it is nearly impossible. I need to repack the steering cylinder on one side, so I should be able to get a little extra access that way. It's either that breather that's leaking of the speed sneers #38, but I never got a really good look at it yet. https://parts.cat.com/imageProcess?catalogId=10051&storeId=20248&imageURL=kjJ%2FmdwrNOnbY%2BVbpLHNLtWR5J9Y%2FhAX5AmJ5JULx49PcIIVHuuGL5t2tBaNvaWpb7SVA2MZGjMDgaRdvcERGi2tDJ1hcwpmXMfg9tTDT2RYRmOoUy1IdpCxysCElNWEMZsv5W4IMJVYn7iWo%2B%2Bxwg%3D%3D
It’s a shame that you didn’t pull the suction screen at the same time and inspect it. That might have told a story. Regarding the oil coming out of the breather, how are you checking the oil level.?
There is a sight glass on the side of the transmission, cold start line, idle min, and idle max. Operating temperature, idling. I still have the filter I could cut open. I seen the suction screen on the parts diagram when I was going for the breather part number. Getting to the screen looks like fun, just like anything on the transmission.
I think that in your circumstances I would pull the screen and see what horrors it contains.
Quick question. What oil did you put in the transmission.? I would have thought for your climate a multigrade TO-4 would be the most appropriate. This would be because a 10W TO-4 would be too light for summer and a 30 would be too heavy for winter. I think we may have discussed the subject of these oils before regarding your track loader. I know that Petro-Canada has a couple of multigrade TO-4 spec offerings.
I put in TDTO-TMS as it was recommended by cat for me. I didn’t want to take any chances for an oil to be issue for diagnosing. It wasn’t THAT much more money then petro. I did drain out a pail, and took the suction screen out. Cleaned it and put it back in. This is what I found The magnets had a decent amount of material on them, there was one chunk, a flat piece maybe 1-2mm across, and 4mm long. And not even a mm thick. The screen was mainly clear, except for the spot pictured. There was some plastic wrapper as you can see, as well as some tan pieces, and some black. The rest of the screen was completely clean. One thing I noticed this time, I had to move the loader up to the shop to work on it, before that I drove it over and pressure washed the area under it by the suction screen. Then drove it back to the shop. I immediately started draining the fluid, and there was a large amount of suspended air bubbles in the oil itself. First thing that comes to mind is a leak on the suction side somewhere, but I see no visual indications of any leaks. Reading up on another thread from an H model, there was someone else who said they had aerated oil right from new. And the samples come back ok. I haven’t gotten around to trying out the machine again to see if the oil change remedied the issue yet. I wanted to try and get in to the breather and see if it was damaged or dirty letting oil come through from the gears slinging in the drop box. It only seems to leak when driving at a higher speed.
Had a couple minutes tonight before it got dark. Barely managed to get my grubby hand in on top of the transmission. I removed the breather, inspected it. Perfectly clean, looks like a simple wire mesh screen breather. I cleaned it out with brake clean, no flow issues. But while I had it off I decided to take a couple brass fittings and relocate the breather with a hose to a higher location. It’s mounted directly below the cab now zip tied up for now. Took it for a drive around the yard in 4th gear, and no oil came out, but the transmission wasn’t at full operating temperature. So I’ll have to wait to see what operating temps have to do with the transmission if it still comes out the breather.
There’s nothing really to be worried about in that suction screen when you have no idea the last time it was removed. Certainly doesn’t appear to be any clutches coming apart.
Yeah that part is unknown, who knows when it was last cleaned out, right before it was taken to auction. Or 500 hours ago? I will say that the ATF I drained out of it looked brand new. And the filter also looked new, I cut it open and the cloth was still clean, not a single speck that I could find. They also have in permanent marker written on the frame above the transmission fill tube “ATF”, only seen that after pressure washing it for the 5th time. I used it yesterday for a few minutes, put a couple grain bins on hopper bottoms, and the wood floors needed to get pushed out into the pasture to get burnt, so I pushed them out with the loader and it never pushed fluid out of the breather, which is a plus. But I haven’t gotten the transmission actually hot yet to see if something happens then. I did see that first gear reverse seems weak.
Maybe time to check pressures. The longer you leave it towards winter the harder it will be to get the transmission up to operating temperature. You could sit and stall the converter against the brakes in 3rd speed to warm up the oil.
Regarding the ATF in the transmission. Maybe some previous owner experienced shifting problems with SAE30 TO-4 and instead of switching to a lower or multi-viscosity TO-4 they figured ATF was the low viscosity solution.?
I haven't gotten around to getting a service manual for this machine yet. But my lord, how does one even get to the test ports on top of the transmission without pulling the cab??? There's no hole in the floor of the cab on this loader like there is on my 973C, would make life a lot easier. I used it for a few minutes yesterday, got the transmission warm, I wouldn't say all the way to operating temperature, but still no oil coming out of the breather, which is a relief. I did notice when its cold, the transmission seems weaker the when the fluid warms up a bit. I'll have to buy myself the full hydraulic pressure test kit. I'm tired of borrowing the kit from a neighbour every time I want to test pressures. Now the last thing for today. My issue with the return to dig sensor, and the return to dump sensor. The return to sensors have the 27v power and ground. The orange light is lit up on the sensor itself. But the green one is not. I do not have sensor voltage at any of the 3 connectors when I disconnect the plugs and test for 5v. I did have sensor voltage for a bit, the green lights were lit up. And then randomly it all turned off. I checked continuity to the plugs from the large connector under the cab that you undo an Allen head bolt to take it apart. And there is continuity. It’s weird that both of the sensors would lose the 5v sensor voltage at the same time. Fuses are intact.
I think it's normal for the transmission to work better after the oil warms up. On my track loader it needs a lot more throttle to get moving after the initial start up even after it has warmed up for several minutes. When it's freezing I let it warm up for at least 10 minutes and lift the tracks off the ground with the loader. If it's even colder I'll pick the whole machine up with the backhoe and run the tracks to get things moving without much load.
It sounds like your machine doesn't have the optional remote (at extra cost) test points. You have my sympathy. Can I correct something right off the bat. They are not sensors, they are simply a magnetically-operated switch (Cat calls them a "Control") that when triggered ON will send Batt+ to the detent solenoids under the control levers and hold the lever in the set position. When they are triggered OFF the lack of power at the solenoids will allow the control lever in question to jump back from the Detent position to the Hold position. In the illustration below if you backprobe at connector "F" you should have 24v between Pins A & B with the key ON. When the magnet passes the Control you should then also have 24v between Pins A & C. Try removing the magnet and passing it one time past the control in one direction only and watch the orange light. Then try passing it one time past the Control in the opposite direction. To the best of my recollection the LED on those switches should light up Green when it is correctly powered. See the attached for an explanation of how they later ones, as fitted to your machine, operate.
I had the green light for a bit, and the amber lights, but while I was farting around moving the control by the magnet, and then hopping in the cab. The green lights went out. But they still have the amber lights illuminated. I had seen a video from someone working on an H series, and the kick outs are supposed to have 5v signal voltage when the control is unplugged. And I do not have that voltage, it did before. There is no voltage at all at pin C in any circumstance. I’m wondering if there is an issue with the detent solenoid under the levers in operating station. It appears that the previous owner had issues with the kick out working for return to dig, because I can see where they probed the wires right at the connector instead of going through the backside connector itself. Looking at that electrical schematic, it appears the 762-YL wire goes to the left hand headliner switch panel, which there is a switch there that has no markings on it, and three positions. No idea what it’s for. I’ll take that apart and see if there is something going on with the wiring to that switch. As for the transmission pressures, i did see test ports on the top of the transmission, there is one at the filter head as well. I will have to take a better look and see if there is any remote mounted. But I do remember seeing one by the breather pointed straight up. This loader is absolutely filthy, I’ve pressure washed everything three times and the more I dig into it the more I’m finding mulch inches deep covering everything. In the front frame on top of all the hydraulics, there’s two holes where the hydraulic hard lines for the bucket tilt cylinder come out. That area was plump full, to the top. With bark and chips and mulch. Probably 4-6 five gallon pails full.
There is a switch on the LH headliner panel only on the IT62G. It's for the bucket/fork select. Your machine should have a jumper installed in CONN 18. See Page 6 Grid H-7 on the schematic. If the connector is unplugged you won't have any voltage. The position sensors are PWM on the H Series. Yours are really much simpler in operation and should be fairly easy to diagnose.
With the connector plugged in I have no signal voltage of 5v at the wire. I will have to check continuity at the plug I did for the 24v power.
If you are talking about wire 762-YL there is no 5V signal voltage on that wire. You are looking for something that doesn't exist. Wires 762-YL (Tilt) and 761-GY (Lift) both carry battery voltage to the solenoids located in the cab below the lift/tilt levers. Think of both Controls are magnetically-operated solid-state switches. I know that Lift & Tilt are different Part Numbers but they both operate in exactly the same way. As the magnet moves past the Control in one direction, it causes the internal contacts to close, sending Batt+ to the detent solenoid in the cab. The result is that the lift/tilt control lever is held in. As the magnet moves past the Control in the opposite direction it causes the internal contacts to open, cutting the voltage to the detent solenoid and as a result the control lever jumps back to the Hold position.
It must be different on the 950h because I went back and looked at the video and that’s what he was working on. So, I plugged in the control, and back proved with it connected and both the blue and the orange wire is showing battery voltage. But the control itself is only showing an amber light. I’m thinking the brand new aftermarket controls are fried. I took a very strong magnet and went by them and nothing changed. So long story ahort Signal wire battery voltage Power wire battery voltage Ground has continuity is good Control box amber light illuminated Control box green light NOT illuminated With the control boxes plugged in, the detent solenoid on the levers function, they hold the levers back, but when a magnet crosses the control boxes they do NOT kick the levers into neutral.
I said that in Post #31...... The H Series uses PWM sensors. First time it's been mentioned that the controls are aftermarket. For an OEM control the Green light means it has power, a Yellow light means that the control contacts have been activated by a magnet passing over the control. For an aftermarket control I have no idea. Maybe the fact that the Yellow light never goes off on your controls is the reason why the signal wire is permanently energized. When that light goes off the detent solenoids should be de-powered.
Off the start the green light was illuminated, then when input magnet across it would illuminate the amber. When I moved the magnet across the other way it would turn amber light off.
If I understand the way you explain it the Yellow light comes on when you move the magnet one way over the control and goes off when you move it the other way. Correct.?
Not anymore, the yellow light is constantly illuminated. When I move the magnet across it now, it does not turn on or off. The green light is never on anymore. The OE factory control I removed does not illuminate at all, not any lights. And when it’s plugged in, it does not allow the detents to function.
I would say your replacement control is defective. It may not have been when you first installed it but it seems as though it is now. So by the sounds of that the original control is not passing power to the detent solenoids at any point. It's likely toast as well. The fact that the green light does not illuminate usually means the control board inside is fried.
That’s what I’m afraid of, I just went over and checked my track loader as it has the same system, different connections or I’d try it on it. The green light is illuminated while on, and the amber light is also illuminated. But when the magnet is directly beside the control, the amber light goes out. So it appears I get to spend even more money.
Any chance of warranty on the aftermarket one you bought.? Or better still get your money back and walk away. TBH I would go for an OEM control. That said even OEM controls are fickle enough regarding reliability at the best of times. Vibration seems to kill them. No way would I trust an aftermarket one.
Well I will have to see, but the reason I went with aftermarket was the price, I can buy 4 of the aftermarket to 1 caterpillar control.
I contacted the company I ordered the control boxes from, they are checking with the supplier if they had a bad run of them. I ordered two control boxes and both have the same issue. I did dig into the machine more today, interior wise, turns out the machine had a quick attach coupler on it, one of the switches that I didn’t know what it did actually has “detach” written below it in black marker which I couldn’t see until I lowered the control panel from the right headliner. Sure enough I go under the front frame section and there’s an auxiliary electronic solenoid, the third valve goes to that solenoid and splits into the two smaller hoses for the hydraulic quick connect. The other switch on the left side that is unmarked, is tied into the 4 way switch, I’m assuming because it has constant power. The wires from that switch go up through the roof which I’m assuming is a beacon, but it’s a 3 position switch, so I’m not sure only two wires go up into the roof under the plastic roof cover. I also got tired of all the mulch dust coming through the vents, so I pulled the hvac cover behind the seat and there’s storage box. Unbelievable amount of mulch under there, the heater core and the AC evaporator coil must be so filthy, but I didn’t feel like taking everything apart. There was 4-6” of mulch in the bottom of everything. The drain was not draining. The cabin air filter was full, the exterior cabin air filter was a brick, I did have that one to replace. I need to replace the interior one. I also did use the machine today, loaded the manure spreader to clean corrals. I still haven’t removed the radiator to clean it completely, I just took the grill guard off a while ago and used the pressure washer with a jet flush nozzle and sprayed through it from the back side, I need to take the fan off to get more of the radiator. The gauge shows right in the middle on coolant temp, and transmission temp. I didn’t want to work it hard when I knew the temps could climb so I kept it happy there. The hydraulic temp was perfect nice and low. But the good news, 1st gear does not kick out into neutral after a few seconds when under load pushing into a pile. And the transmission breather does not puke oil out anymore now that it’s raised up. Seems like something maybe torque converter slip, hut it heats the oil quick, when I’m pushing into a pile to get a bucket the trans oil temp seems to climb quickly. I wish the fan would spin faster.
On the basis of that statement I think the problem might not be 100% related to the radiator, but in addition you have to consider the performance of the transmission cooler. The speed with which the heat produced in the converter is taken away all depends initially on the efficiency of the cooler to get that heat from the oil into the coolant and get it to the radiator. By the sounds of what you found in the aircon ducts, etc, I would bet that the radiator is in a similar state. The Lift & Tilt Controls are two different Part Numbers, 145-8670 & 176-5459 respectively. The first difference appears to be the harness connector plug on the pigtail. The Lift Control has male pins in the connector and the Tilt control has female sockets in the connector. The second ( and really important ) difference is that the two Controls are pinned completely different. 145-8670 has Ground on Pin A, Batt+ on Pin B, and Signal on Pin C. 176-5459 has Batt+ on Pin A, Signal on Pin B, and Ground on Pin C. Did you order something that was a "will fit" replacement for each number or did you buy two identical Controls.?
I know I will have to clean the radiator more then I have, this is something that has to get done sooner rather then later. Winter is coming in a month I won’t be able to wash any equipment. I ordered two of the same controls as it was listed for both part numbers, I did not physically have the bucket kick out control box, or the wiring extension. The whole assembly must’ve been damaged and removed from the cylinder. I used the part number off of the lift height kick out to find the aftermarket parts. When I received the controls I realized one was different. the connector was wrong for the bucket tilt control. Once you sent me the wiring schematics(thank you again), I was able to put on the proper connector and have it wired properly. Without both of the control boxes plugged in, the detents do not function, so that tells me that in order to function both need to be functional, and connected.
Whoops guess that never posted yesterday, but I did try and clean the radiator out today got some time. It took two full tanks of fuel with the pressure washer and the jet flush nozzle going vertically between the vertical core tubes. I could tell where I got before, because the other 70% were still plugged, the water didn’t flush through the radiator instead it came back out towards me looking like a chocolate milkshake. It was easier for me to pull the grill, the fan guards, and then fan itself then it was to pull the radiator. But when I finished blowing all the mulch out of the rad, when I fired up the machine the fan blows probably twice as much air out of the back end now. I have high hopes that the cooling issue for the water and the transmission are going to be solved now, that much came out of the radiator core
Hard to see since I messed it all up, but when I started cleaning the rad out, that was just a pile of mulch that I cleaned out from between the loader arms. All the mud looking fine material came from out of the radiator.
Had CAT come out to work on my track loader, and while they were out here I got the tech to recharge the nitrogen on the ride control canister. It had barely enough pressure to register on his gauge. But recharged it to 400psi, and it looks like it has ride control again. Got him to plug the computer in to check the codes, the only active code is the alarm in the cab. The codes are now cleared, so I can check to whatever comes back. Since I have procrastinated on building a click box, o have bought a connector kit, but haven’t bought any switches.
Did you have him download a Product Status Report for you while he had ET hooked up.? If you didn’t then you missed a trick.
I have no idea what that even is, so nope. What trick would that be?
When he first connected to the machine with ET if he was following standard protocol he should have downloaded an Adobe pdf document that gives the complete machine status, all the software numbers, ECM part numbers, lists of Active/Logged Diagnostic Codes, Events, etc, etc. Also by protocol he should have downloaded the same document again after he did whatever he did so the customer has "before" and "after" reports. On some models a PSR can run to 20+ pages. If you can call him ask him if he downloaded a PSR and if he answers in the negative then ask him why not. See this LINK to give you an idea what a PSR looks like.
Talked to another ex cat mechanic that specialized in transmissions and he has said that its sounding like the torque converter is hurt. But the aeration in the oil can cause similar symptoms to what im experiencing. Seeing that forward and reverse gears act exactly the same. He suggested that i replace the o rings on the suction side, and the intake screen cover. Then do a pressure test on the filter head to get a base line on the pump health. I'm thinking im going to change the oil out again, but leave the filter because the oil is still quite red with ATF. This time he suggested i put in the 30wt. So the two hard lines on the transmission those 4 o rings, and the 1 o ring for the suction screen cover.
Was that for some sort of test or permanent.? TBH unbless you are prepared to spend an hour or so warming it up after every cold start to thin the oil out I would still say 10W-30 for your climate, especially this time of the year. I would say there is more chance of aeration with a pump sucking thick oil than sucking something thinner.
From what I was understanding he said the transmission should be running the 30wt tdto, the TDTO TMS has a better range all around from -20°C to 43°C that’s what it was recommended to me. But maybe either all the ATF that I wasn’t able to drain in the system and cooler it’s still not good enough. I do agree about the thicker oil causing higher vacuum suction and chances to pull air. We just had that issue on a international 886 tractor in the farm, the pickup tube wasn’t sealed completely in the transmission for the hydraulic pump and when it was really cold you couldn’t barely use the hydraulics. But in the summer there wasn’t really much issue at all.
You already have practical experience of the issue in that case. I'd still vote for the TDTO-TMS, or the Petro Canada equivalent. If you want to simply flush the remains of the ATF out of the powertrain oil system then with the ambient temperatures at this time of the year in your area you could actually use TDTO SAE10W which covers you up to an ambient of around +10 degC and would be a lot cheaper.
I got all the o rings on the suction line, and pick up screen and the case drain line changed out. While I was at it I did the ones on the drain plug as well. Dropped all the oil and put in new TMS. I kept the old oil, and drained the hydraulic tank, put it in there. The transmission oil isn’t red anymore at all, and just driving it around the yard it seems to be more responsive while cold. Oil isn’t nearly as aerated. But still has decent amount of aeration in it more then I remember the loaders at my old work having. The hydraulic oil will need to be drained and refilled again to try and get the crap that was in it before out. But for the winter it should be fine with the new filter and the tank drained and filled again. Also finally got the right cutting edges for the bucket. 30mm blades are heavy. Sure enough there’s a left and right side too. But only 3 bolts holding each blade on is kind of concerning. Meanwhile the two small outer blades have three bolts holding them on and they’re 6” wide basically lol Also rebuilt the accumulator because it was leaking the nitrogen out. And holy crap thats a heavy awkward thing to get in and out.
There’s the loader now with the stupid heavy blades on it, still have a couple things left to do. The tail light protector box things need to get straightened out. The one light replaced. The two magnetic sensors I’m still waiting on the manufacture to give me an idea of what I should be doing. Finally found the boxes from them. And that accumulator still seems to be holding its pressure now. It’s right at the articulation point on the front half.
Those edges will last you a life time,
First time using it to push snow, and the hydraulic pump was not making nice noises... can hear in this short video. The 4.25yard bucket isn’t big enough. I need a 16’ snow pusher blade. But she was an ugly day out.
I know it will be pretty cold right now where you are. What viscosity of oil do you have in the implement hydraulic system and was it well up to operating temperature when you shot that video.? Does the hydraulic tank have a relief valve mounted on top of it.? If yes has it been replaced since you owned the loader.? Those valves are a 2000-hr service item. Also is there pressure in the hydraulic tank when you unscrew the cap with hot oil.?
It sounds about normal to me
I have changed out 3 of the accumulators on 980H's. They are very heavy and helpful to have a wrench buddy helping to put into place. Simon C
Well, I have only drained the tank, the old oil I have no idea what it was but it was black. Terrible oil. But seeing as I only drained the tank, there’s lots left. But I had put cheap 10wt oil in it, probably never met cat specs but I knew I was going to be dumping it with little hours on it so I didn’t want to spend a lot on good oil. I honestly don’t even know if it has a relief valve on the top of the tank. But I will be replacing it now that you mention it. I did not check to see if the tank was pressurized. It was 90+km winds today and blizzard conditions I didn’t even have the heater valves open like a dufus.
When I lowered the bucket down the tone and sound changed like it was cavitation. And sometimes when I use the brakes it made the same. It seemed to start the noise after I was trying to bang the bucket and maxed out the range on the tilt cylinder.
I was an idiot and had the cat tech help me with the proper way to rebuild it since I had never done one before. The barrel was replaced before, and it was like brand new but it did have a piston spacer in the top which he said was a bandaid fix for old barrels for when they get wiped and struggle to seal so the spacer puts the piston down a little further and gives a better sealing location. But what we found in the accumulator wasn’t ideal, it had gotten quite hot. The seals were cooked, literally melted. So the hydraulics must’ve gotten really, really hot. And after we got it all done and sealed up he offered to help put it back in the hangers. And like an idiot I was like “nah I got it” trying to save myself $5. And then I proceeded to struggle by myself for what felt like 2 hours haha