I purchased an older Cat 955 track loader, transmission is slow warming up. Where do I check and add transmission oil if needed. What type oil and where can it be purchased. Everything runs and works fine just very slow warm up. Tks Ron
Depending on serial number, should be under seat, 30wt TDTO. I would change the filter ,clean the suction screen and check the hoses and clamps on the piping. Just to start as a general point on most machines with your symptoms.
Napa sells a tdto 30 wt oil.
If its like mine there is a panel which lifts up just in front of the seat. Under it there are two fill caps. one is the transmission and the other is the final drive. Mine had one dip stick which is used for both to check level. Just to the right in this pic is one of the fill tubes The sort of round cap is removed to gain access to the trans filter
Thanks, I appreciate the information
Alldodge, in your pic the round is trans filter and square is suction filter, I don't see many 955, more 977, thanks
I appreciate all the info I guess I have a different model. I don't know if it's older or newer, I could not find a serial num under the seat or anywhere else. I have attached three pictures, the first shows a dipstick and just the left a fill port. On the cap its stamped on nine oil only. On the third picture of the right steering pedal there is a fill tube in the very front and what looks like a dipstick on the right of the pedal, but could not remove it. Any suggestions where to go next? Thanks for the help.
955H 60A low serial# lever steer dry clutches and brakes. Front dipstick, just work at it cap likely is likely just rusted to tube. The other tube with breather on cap near it is the Powershift trans filler, the dipstick and filler at the rear by seat is for the Range trans. Use tdto oil in them, The power shift is 2 speed and the range is 2 speed with a neutral to allow for running a inch while not traveling. The range control has a lockout to prevent the lever moving unless the powershift is in neutral. The filter at the back is for the steering and the round cover with a pipe and hose off of it is the steering screen. Trans filter is on the side. Later Bob
Just so I'm clear, use sae30 Tdto oil in both places. Do I then add oil thru the dipstick? Thanks
No, look at the two breathers, put a wrench on the square of the cap they screw into and turn it. The cap is where you fill the oil. Later Bob
Bob, I hate to sound stupid, but is the breather the bolt that appears to be painted yellow and is directly to the left of the dipstick in the first picture? That is the one that is stamped engine oil only. Thanks
Have to admit I don't see the fill. Bob is the expert here, and in the pic below this is what I see as the breather
Breather on the cap in front of the RH pedal up by the dash is for the powershift trans and the one back beside the filter cover by the seat is for the range trans and bevel gear oil. Later Bob
Thanks AllDodge could you also mark the similar one up by the dash too please. Later Bob
If I understand correctly this is the power shift
Thanks AllDodge, go for those plugs Ron. The dipsticks have caps that are sleeves fitting tight to the tube and likely have rusted tight on the front one if it's not coming off. Later Bob
Thanks for all the information. Do I need to have the machine running or warm to check levels. Is there a website or place I can go to get specifications on lubricants and etc. for this machine.. Thanks Ron
You check the oils warm with engine at low idle. Final drives don't matter. You can use diesel engine oil in the hyd, it will extend pump life. Power shift trans or any component with a clutch needs TdTo or To4. Final drives use 50W. Later Bob
I too have a 955H series 60A with the same symptoms. I can't find the suction filter. My trans filter is forward of the right brake pedal above torque converter housing. Should suction filter be the same square housing as in the pictures? Or is it something else located else where? In the past I have actually primed the filter housing to get going. I hear the suction noise too. Just a farm machine but I do need it from time to time. Thanks for any guidance .
Russ, when you have the trans oil out there is a KEY HOLE sort of cover on the lower side. It's a round cover with a square out the side of it held on by 3/8" bolts and it has a screen under it. Later Bob
Bob, I just added 2 & 1/2 gallons of oil to each of the two fill ports and was still not able to read anything in the dipsticks. Yet the machine still runs fine after warm. Do you know what the oil capacity o Tito oil is? Thanks Ron
No I can't recall how much oil they take but would just keep filling it up until you see it on the stick. If you fill it stopped the level will drop when running. Later Bob
Hello I have the same setup as Ronm and I can't find any serial number anywhere and I've been looking for 2 years now. I would like to get a service manual also would like to figure out the year as I think by all the pictures I've looked at online I think I have it narrowed down to a 62, 63, or 64, . The reason I say that is I think the 61, and older has an older style dash and the 66, has a more square hood nose grill part and no console between the pedals . A nother thing mine has I haven't seen in any pictures that are clear enough is I have 2 small pedals close to each side of the console that I think are hooked to the toroidal. Any help in figuring outserial number range and what service manual i need would be awesome and greatly appreciated thanks.
Nothing in the way of numbers on the engine.? Look for something like the image below on the side of the cylinder block. The key is the "traxcavator" at the top, directly underneath is the Serial Number.
No I can't find any plates anywhere except for all the 1s I don't need like how to operate it and they are all in the cab I can't find any plates anywhere else
As Nige mentioned, left side, rear of the block and under the exhaust manifold. The plate is not very big, I missed my for a few years until noticed it was painted over
Those 2 little peddles on either side of console are decelerator peddels Nick
I’m not sure if this is one of the models from that era where the machine Serial Number was stamped on the top surface of the bevel gear housing. It certainly wouldn’t hurt to check.
Reading through this old thread is a great reminder of the late Bob/Ont's vast knowledge and expertise in Cat track loaders. He is very missed.
Just to make it clear that if you go looking on the top of the bevel gear housing you are NOT looking for a plate, instead you are looking for a number stamped directly into the steel of the casing in characters probably about 1/4” high similar to the photo below. In your case the first three characters will most be either 12A or 60A as these were US-built versions of the early 955. There is an outside chance that it could be 45A (UK built), 72A (France), or 93A (Japan).
Thanks all I found it it was kind up under the back over the hitch now can anyone tell me the best manual and where would be the best place to get it? What I think the number is. 60 A 6570
Unfortunately it doesn't seem as though there are many options for used manuals around, only new ones. See this LINK for a Parts Manual. Put 00034920 into the box and click Search, the illustration below should come up. Search for SEBU6448 if you want an Operation & Maniatenance Manual. Alternatively see HERE . All these links are for genuine new factory manuals. If you are ever buying parts from a Cat dealer tell them your Serial Number is 60A06570 otherwise they'll probably look at you like you have grown a second head.
60A 6570 is a 1963 model, buy the caterpillar manuals, don't waste your money on the aftermarket books. caterpillar 60A manual for sale | eBay Get the best deals for caterpillar 60A manual at eBay.com. We have a great online selection at the lowest prices with Fast & Free shipping on many items! www.ebay.com
Can't stress that enough. The knock-off manuals you find at @ $80-100 on internet marketplaces are not genuine and a waste of money.
That serial # would make your steering clutches & brakes oil cooled. Nick
Serial # 60A 3561 & up uses 11 gal in trans. Seems odd that earlier serial #60A up to 3561 uses 14 gal. Nick
Hi all I have a few more questions I'm hoping someone can help me with?? What's the chanc I'd have to take more then 1 link out of my track on my cat 955? And second question is dose anyone know who can take links out in Central maine???
Most likely need to rebuild the spring piston
Unless you have backed off the track deliberately, I would say AllDodge has it correct. You probably have a leaky grease piston in the track tensioner, letting the track slack off. I say this because the idler does not look like it is fully forward and maxing out the track takeup travel. Once you fix the takeup cylinder you will be able to tell if you still have excess track and need to take out a link or two. Most any outfit that works on heavy equipment (dozers, excavators and the like) will either have the stuff to take a link out or know who can do it for you. It isn't terribly complicated but you need a special press to get a track pin out--they need to be able to push about 100 tons. In reality, your undercarrage is probably worn out but to fix it properly would probably cost close to 5 figures. YMMV Jon.
Yes I did back the track off. when it was fully tight it jumped the track 3 or 4 times so I backed it off I do need to replace the spring it's broke in 3 pieces but the grease cylinders haven't leaked
The broken spring is probably one of the biggest reasons the track is jumping. With a good spring in there you could run the track at the correct tension.
So do you think I should still take a link out?
Need to replace spring first, then see if links need to be removed. Find out how many shoes should the track have? If it's original then there is something else that needs replacing
There is 40 links but even if I do the spring first I still need to get the master pin out? I got it to move with a 32 ton bottle jack and a clamp thing I made but just as the pin starts to move the jack losses prime because the jack is on its side.
I had it a bit easier, I had a master link Don't see the need to get master pin out first. I cut my spring up and took it out in pieces. CAT compressed and banded the new spring. My guess is you may not have to remove the pin
A bottle jack will work just fine laying horizontally, as long as you position the pump on the bottom side.
It depends on the jack. Some are designed for horizontal and some are only for lifting up.