Gentlemen, I recently purchased a Cat 955H with factory Cat side dump bucket and Hyster D4E and we ran it for the first time last weekend. It ran great but the fuel is old so I want to change filters...etc. I have read there is a screen I need to check in addition to the filters but cannot find it referenced in my operators manual. Any thoughts on where it would be located? Also 2 of the 3 winch control cables are locked up, I have the Hyster winch manual for the D4e winch but it doesn't show how the cables attach on the winch side, do they just thread into the winch? Finally, I have read there are two places to find the serial number: one on the left back side of engine/cylinder head and on the back of the machine near the draw bar. I believe my winch covers over the second...is there anywhere else I can find the serial number? Was there anything in the operators station? as always thanks for the help! Nick
That's it for s/n locations. Primary fuel filter is mounted to the fuel transfer pump. Cables will either be installed in a bracket retained by a nut or in a clamp with set screws. That's a pretty clean looking machine.
@Old Magnet - thanks for the compliments on the machine, I looked for a long time for a clean 955. This one was farmer owned and barn kept most of its life in Tn. Maybe this is a newb question but where is the fuel transfer pump. Under the fuel tank or near the injection pump? Thanks, Nick
I would try soaking the control cables in pb blaster. Spray it in at the highest point and let it soak in. Try and work the cable a little each time.I did it a couple times over 2 days and my 550 JD control cable loosened right up!
@redneckracin - thanks, I am going to give that a shot before I pull them off. I'll try anything as I've heard the cables are fairly expensive to replace from Hyster.
The Primary filter is a little to the right and below the Main Fuel Filter housing, under the transfer pump. If need be check "Cablecraft" on the web for control cables or Tuthill cable is a distributor, They are still pricey but better than going through Hyster or Cat.
Great, just give the penetrating fluid some time to work! I started using vise grips since I didn't have a control lever. Who in the hell takes a control lever off and doesn't replace it!?
To answer your question, "A farmer". To ask a question, does your M543 run? Do you have any trouble with the U-joint on the power divider? Regards, Clark
Old Magnet - thanks much I finally got a repair manual for the 955 and it has a great diagram. I was going to do general fluid/filter maintenance next time I go down later this month. Redneckracin - Yeah agreed...luckily I still have the handles but may still use the vice grips method to work them loose. Hate to break a handle you know? Sealark37 - actually mine is a m816 so no multifuel, it has the Cummins 250 in it. To answer your question no but from what I have read I am lucky. All my joints are in good shape. If you are having trouble I highly suggest you get onto steel soldiers. Me and two other guys have threads on there about the m816/m543 and one recently replaced that setup with a different more reliable set up. Some more pics below...she is definitely a work horse. More updates end of the month when I not on temporary duty for my job.
Gents, finally got down to the property to do some work or so I thought. Some animal made lunch of my dash! No major damage that some fiberglass cant fix other than my starter switch wire, it was a casualty(pictured). Couple of items to fix like the broken winch control(pictured) but the most immediate fix is the battery cables. The red and black have seen better days. Question for the Cat experts here. 1. Disconnect should only he the ground correct? 2. Does the large positive cable from my battery attach(pictured) to the back of starter or the starter solenoid? I'm going to replace the cables next time I go down. Finally I looked on the back of the motor but didn't find a serial number...could it be painted over? Was able to us the Ford 3400 FEL to smooth our the driveway a bit after our last rain storm. More to come, we are heading down on the 27th to work. -Nick
Does this help as regards a wiring diagram..?
Now that is a flash back to when wiring diagrams were printed on the last page of the parts book! And to answer your question, yes disconnect switch is the negative/ground side of the batteries.
Back to the days when Electrical Schematics were so simple that they'd literally fit on the back of a cigarette packet.
Nige, That did help! My dad and I went back down this last weekend and spent some time with the Cat. It turns out whatever chewed up my dash also chewed up my starter wiring (hence why it wouldn't start). At some time my dozer was upgraded with a newer starter and Starter solenoid. The solenoid is not on the firewall but similar to older GM starters is attached to the starter. we were able to easily jump the solenoid and get the Cat back in action. This trip was spent beginning to build a temporary structure so my equipment isn't living outside anymore! Also still searching for a Serial Number Will keep everyone updated. Thanks for all the help! Nick
Should be a simple master battery switch, the start rotary switch(if has glow plugs a switch position for those) and the wiring from a generator or alternator to the back of the ammeter from the ammeter to the master switch hot side. Minimal at best.
@DMiller , I agree but I am definitely not doing it in the hot Tennessee sun. I will wait till this fall, jumping the solenoid is easy and I have to focus on my batter cables and my winch cables for now. Nige's wiring diagram is all I should need for the job. I will post some pictures of the cat working soon. Thanks again for all the help!
It has been a little bit since I have been able to get down to my property but my military job is keeping me busy. I do have a question for some of the experts on here, I found a pretty cheap 4 in 1 Bucket for sale near my property off of a IH 175, its a 1 3/4yrd bucket which is similarly sized the cat "multi-purpose bucket" according to my Cat book. My thought is to fab up new brackets and welded them on...I may even possibly make it a quick attach using the third valve and diverter valve so I can easily go back and fourth between my side dump and 4 in 1. Thoughts? as a side note I have a bit of training/experience for welding thick metals from the military and have easy access to a machine shop to cut the brackets. Thanks and as always any help is greatly appreciated!
IH will be considerably different, pin sizes, width of brackets, you will end up basically cleaning off most of the back of the bucket and starting over. Keeping it square, keeping pin bores aligned and then keeping the upper arm pin bores aligned so the bucket does not tweak every load will be the major challenge. This will not be as I just completed in relining and side paneling a bucket. May be worth the Cash to search out a pin on replacement instead and have shipped in. Be money ahead.
@DMiller , This bucket is literally a mile from my place. The only two 4 in 1s for a 955 I've found are 13 hrs away+ and $1000 or more. I can pick this one up for $350. I'm definitely not in a rush but also don't wanna miss a good deal even if it's a little work and money. Any ideas?
Steel will most likely run in the $2-500 range for your changeover, machine work not included. For me to re-floor, re-side panel and cutting edge repair, with rods, gas and shop supplies was close to $600, over a weeks worth of total hours expended and nothing as intricate as squaring pin bosses. I would take as many measurements of your lift frame at pins as you can imagine will need. Take that with you to examine the $350 bucket, inspect for cracks, wear of cutting surfaces and bottom side of floor if able(most wear and corrosion point), measure the lift arm connections on the IH bucket then decide as to value. If the cylinders show leaks add a couple hundred to get them resealed, if the bucket needs rehab then figure around where I was on the GP I rebuilt. IF for any reason there is more than that you can figure the $1000 pin on will be a bargain even if needs rehab.
1--listen to Miller, he knows what he's talking about 2--On a 4-in-1, check that the clam part isn't tweaked too bad. My 955K has a perfectly square and tight clamp, which is quite rare on these machines (as far as I've been told and have seen). If the clamp (clam) part doesn't fit tight to the blade/bucket part, it is almost impossible to get to fit right. And if it fits badly, that just messes everything up (it won't dig flat, won't carry fines...). There's probably a good reason it's only $350! But--it sounds like you are a metal worker, so you know the drill.
One other failed to mention, MP buckets tend to be Heavy, there should be a counterweight added to the rear of the machine or it will nose dive severely when loaded. Your winch may Not be enough but yours is equipped with a side dump, just as heavy.
Gents, thanks for the advice...went down to do some Hurricane Florence prep just in case and the cat fired up like a charm. Now that it is cooling off I am going to be re-wiring the chewed up ignition. Also what color cat yellow would this be? I have heard there is an "old" and "new" cat yellow. I am planning on cleaning up, improving and repainting the ROPS set up. Dmiller, thanks for the note about the counter weight, It seems to work pretty well with the side-dump on it without any nose heavy issues even with the bucket loaded with wet soil but with our hilly work area I appreciate the warning! More work to come next month, most likely more digging so I will definitely take some photos! - Nick
With the vintage of your machine the colour would be what's known as "Hi-way (or Highway) Yellow". The newer colour is more of a tan than a yellow. I saw that there is a PPG Code for it as "tractor yellow" 80453. Someone else may be able to confirm that.
I'm no structural engineer but is that roof going to handle the snow load in winter? As flat as it looks even with steel roofing I don't see the snow sliding off. Or maybe the snow fall in Ohio is not like what we get in Central NY!
@Nige - thanks I got some on order for our next trip! @kshansen - you are correct sir, this 100 would crumble in Ohio but thankfully in Tennessee we barely get to freezing so it's acceptable to use a fairly flat roof. Plus this is only a temp structure to cover my equipment until we dig the foundation for my permanent 30x48 pole barn. Appreciate the concern tho!
Gents, it's been a few months since I have been able to get on here. Between temporary duty for the military and life in general I have been crazy busy. My dad and I were able to get down to the property twice in that time and finish up the barn as well as clean up the cabin a little bit to prep it for our winter projects (finished bathroom and Kitchen. finally). Barn went up well, I am happy with how it came out, it's not pretty but everything is square and it should last as long as I need before I dig out the hill side. As you can see by the pictures it turned into a muddy mess the final trip as we sheathed the roof and put down the roof cover (nearly 3/16" thick military vinyl cover which was 28'x24'). Everything is covered minus about 2 feet of the crane truck which is fine with me. We tried to pull start the big truck again but we underestimated the Tennessee mud...even the 36K truck slid all over in that mud. we moved the batteries from the Cat and it fired right up so no worries just surprising how slick that red mud is. On another subject...what are everyone's thoughts when comparing a D4 7U vs. D6 9U for general dozer work, building/maintain roads and cleaning up trees? That 955 is a great jack of all trades but I will need something to help level my house building plot which will be approximately 125'x125' plus driveways. I thought maybe the extra weight of the D6 would be helpful. Not in the market just yet but trying to identify what I should be looking for so I can start putting away the $ for it. Thanks!
Mud is no fun, never has been. As to a 7 or 6, regardless the S/n is dependent of what use you intend. As a D7 is a LARGE hard to maneuver in tight places excavating/grading machine, are hard/Expensive to get transported due to weight and dimensions, are EXPENSIVE for maintenance components more so than a D6. 6 is more nimble but less apt to drive thru a grove of trees, if you only need a short term grade cleaning machine use the 955 to rough grade and your own small hoe to finish to working grade as is a less expensive alternative. If have extended uses buy the 6 as is a faster turnaround resale machine due to the notations above. Having more expensive machinery to sit and grow stuff around is not a great choice.
@DMiller - Thanks for the advice, but I meant a D4 7u not a D7 haha that's waaaaaaaaay to big for my britches. it would probably be more of a long term use as I have almost 50 acres to maintain and we are looking to buy more. and the mud is terrible, maybe it's because I grew up in the north but its still a steep learning curve.
D4 is a Nice finish grade size, as with the smaller Allis dozers still working they have a place but unless have finish grade projects lined up are not much worth that to own. Can clear brush, if work long enough hard enough can remove trees, as stated would likely sit a lot while use the 955 and TLB. Sorry about the Dyslexia cut in missed D4 for D7!! D6 still a better overall choice.
With the red mud/clay down here, its always best, if its wet leave it until it dries out some. Have tried my self several times over the years to move things and it never worked out well
Dmiller and Alldodge - Thanks for the advice...as you can see by my recent picture we had quite a bit of red clay/mud and it is slippery as an oil spil. The 955 made quick work of the hill side I am beginning to open up to access the back of the cabin. We will be putting in the drain pipes to our septic (previous owner had no idea what they were doing) and burying our power line finally. I used some of the extra dirt to backfill my barn which was in about 2" of standing water. Hopefully will fix that in April or May with the addition of a few inches of either #7 or rip rap. Still looking for a good deal on a D4 or D6 preferably a D6 but an upcoming duty station change for the Air Force may put a pause on that until we are in Florida. Thanks again for all the advice gentlemen! - Nick out
Set yourself up some side drainage toward the rear, then fill the shed floor with 2" clean and use the equipment to pack it in, top it off later with inch minus where can crust over will be almost as a concrete floor.
Your coming along, looks better already. DMiller has a good thought on drainage, and dense grade will pack in hard. I need to work on my D3, but wouldn't mind a D4, if I get anything any larger I cannot transport it. Already pay someone to move the 955 when needed