My friend at the shop had a 963 brought that needs some serious work done. He asked if i can give him a hand whenever have some time and of course i wouldnt miss that opportunity. Figured i can post some pictures of the proccess. Enjoy!
We started yesterday by taking the bucket off. Lower pin assembly was really Hard to remove. Used hydraulic press, hammering and heat. We ended up torching the tapered cups and the screws on the lift arms. After some serious hydraulic pressure and a lot of heat, they came out with a big bang!
Today we had the machine sit on blocks and Took out the tracks. Some rollers have to be replaced and we noticed some play on the track frame pivot so we Took the track frame out as well.
Equaliser bar bushings and Rubber buffers were almost non existant so it had to come out as well
A t least checking deeper as need to. These receive quite a beating.
Is that a 977 or 988 with ripper in the background behind the orange forklift?
Man Spyros you aren't shy when it's time to Tear her Down! Love the pictures.
It is my 955L. You can check it out in my thread 955L
My friend said the same thing In the construction comoany i used to work, we used to rebuild all kinds of machinery, 5-6 of them every year. It was a great experience You can have a look in one of our projects here
What's the story regarding the gas-cut bolts in the split clamp for the bucket pins on the end of the lift arm.?
Looks bigger than a 955 in the picture angle. Just read through your 955 thread. Impressive.
The nuts on the bolts were so worn we couldnt get the socket wrench to fit so it was a one way street
Cab came off today. New Doors and glasses will be fitted. sprocket segments need to be replaced
Suggestion for when you install the new pins. You can fabricate some wedges then drive them into the "split" in the end of the lift arm (see arrow). The wedge needs to be pretty wide, as wide as you can make it. This will open the bore just a hair and help installation of the pins. The wedge should also be quite short because otherwise the bucket will hit the wedge before you can get the pin bores in the lift arm and the bucket lined up. DON'T under any circumstances put anti-seize anywhere on the outside diameter of the lower bucket pins. Put anti-seize ONLY on the inside diameter of the tapered collets (arrowed) that are installed on each end of the pin.
People who have actually done this before just loosen the 2 outside bolts and tighten the middle bolt to open the eye and drive the pins out. Bob
Now would be a AWESOME time for a Pressure Washer use.
There are no jacking bolts on the end of that lift arm, unlike some of the larger models. The three bolts in the photos above all screw into a threaded plate underneath. Loosen three bolts (5) at the end of both lift arms. Use tooling (C) to remove the lower bucket pins if they are tight in their bores.
Now i understand why you asked about the gas cutting of the bolts on the split arm. There was no threaded plate, Just bolts with nuts.
Here's the complete pn & seal group for the bucxket linkage. I picked a S/N prefix at random but all the 963 models, from the earliest one right up the C, are the same in this area. The "bar" as it is called on the Parts List, is Ref #20. I assume that the idea of the bar is to get more clamping force on the split joint and also to minimize the potential of damage underneath the lift arm if nuts were used.
Bushings replaced on roller frame. Support sleeve.
The shaft was worn too so it had to come out for machining. Man that thing was hard to remove! There were two threaded holes on the flange that are supposed to eject the shaft by inserting two screws but that wasnt enough. Had to use some Wedges and a lot of brute force!
Ιdler needs new bushings That bearing assembly was also really Hard to remove and even harder to unscrew the flange in order to get that bearing out
11 out of 12 bottom rollers were shot Starting from the rear side, the rollers on one side were S-D-S-D-D-D while on the other side Were S-D-S-D-D-D. I think the second is the correct sequence. Can someone confirm?
According to the info I can see there should be 4 singles and 2 doubles on each side. Sequence is called out as S - D - S - S - D - S Usually a double should never be installed immediately next to either the sprocket or to the idler.
Yours should have a single next to the front idler and the rest are correct. Usually roller position is called out from the front to the back S-D-D-S-D-S. Bob
Sorry, typing error. The other side was S-D-S-D-D-S
Hi guys, Things are going pretty slow due to lack of time. We started the assembly today and hopefully we will finish in the next weeks New rollers, repaired idlers and new bucket blade and teeth The old teeth are just perfect for my 955 bucket
Spyros curious why you are taking the teeth off and putting a smooth cutting edge on that 963?
We have put new teeth on as well. The old edge was worn out so we change the whole thing
Great to watch you work Spyros! In my good days I would have had trouble keeping up. Keep those pictures coming!
New sprocket segments Undercarriage support shaft was welded and machined down to proper diameter.
how much work ... beautiful
I know this is a couple of years ago, but we are rebuilding pivot shaft on 86 963 machined spindle and having a tough time understanding how the seal is supposed to be installed in hob on pivot, any more pictures? Thank
Big side into housing little side towards tractor make sure ring on pivot shaft is not all pitted up