Hi Guys My 977K 11K has a track cylinder Seal blown and won't hold the Idler forward. I've cleaned up the track, and noticed this seal repair, doesn't look like a quick easy job. Do I need to remove the spring, and split the track to get to this seal? Thanks Max
DO NOT SCREW WITH THE SPRING, it is inside a retaining mount and is for Rebound ONLY. Commonly referred to as the Death Spring as people try to remove them and die. Need to break track move idler forward and remove the tensioning assembly, are seals inside of the affair to replace and clean up the bore they slide in. If have never done this, pay someone to do it as is cheaper than destroying your tractor or hurting yourself.
As stated above do not mess with the spring! Do not just start taking bolts out etc. so you can get the whole thing on the bench. There are very specific steps to take if you need to remove a spring assembly. I would highly recommend getting a proper service manual. Most often, like DMiller says, you can just break the track, push the idler forward and rebuild the cylinder in place.
Hi Thanks D and Ct I checked out the Spring this morning, and it appears that there is a Thick Ring, in front of the spring, and against the Spring stops. Is this to hold the cylinder cans? I used to have trouble, losing Spring stops, and was informed by Cat Mechanics, on how to replace them by using a spare Track Pin in the sprocket, and backing up to compress. I've done this ,and replaced the lost stops, which later I found that I wasn't torqueing them enough, so I know how to remove them if need be. I don't really want to mess with them, if I don't have to. I don't have a problem separating the Track, and moving the Idler forward, but once I do this, there's no way to remove the Ring ,in front of the Spring, unless I put the track back together. Another Question is is there a rebuild Kit, for these cylinders, or do I have to order individually, each O Ring and Packing? Thanks to all. Love this Fourm
The Death Spring is an assembly that is prepared In a Press then installed and the assembly retaining equipment removed, do NOT under any circumstances worry with or work on that spring.
Ok D Thanks. Now to find the Master Pin in the Track. I put it in a few years back, there's no difference in all the pins. May have to rap any suspicious ones with a sledge to see if I can get one to move. Had to Tac Weld the starboard side Pin, as it kept slipping out.
Look at link ends thru the shoe gaps, full bushing visible NOT a Master, gap or split in bushing may even seen pin, Master.
Thanks D I look for it this morning.
If your track is well worn you can change the piston seals without breaking the track. The adjuster flange comes apart by removing 4 1/2" bolts . The piston has 2 rings a seal and the flange has a seal and ring. If you PM me your phone number I can talk you thru this. Bob
Bob can you give a approximate on well worn. Some of the steps to getting the track off and on in one piece would be much appreciated.
Not gonna roll it off and back on, just hyper extend the idler then disassemble the seals package, rails alone on these close to 1000lbs, not including shoes where with shoes somewhere around two ton a side.
Hi Bob I had a House Emergency on my roof, so I have had to stop work on my 977. I don't hear well, so I wouldn't be able to follow you much on a phone. My Tracks have very little wear on the chains, because I replaced them a few years back, they were good used tracks, that had street pads though, and I welded Grousers on them, there probably 90%. I have a 843 Bobcat, that I use to get the Tracks back on with. I must have put the Master pin in backwards, as I don't seem to find a Lathe dimple in the ends of any of them. I'll get under and check again after I get my roof problems fixed on the house. You say you have gotten the Idler tension rod out or clear enough to repair the cylinder, I can try that, I can pull the idler enough forward with my skid loader, if need be. Is that what you had in mind to do?