I need to replace two of the bucket pins on my 977k, but I'm having problems locating aftermarket pins. Most info I find on the web points to a 5k6383, but the only source I can find with dimensions listed show a 2" diameter. The pins I removed were 2 1/2" x 13 3/4" with a 3/4 keeper hole. Does anyone have the correct part number for the 2 1/2" pin, or can you tell me if the machine has possible been modified? Thanks!
Well how about a machine Serial Number for a kickoff so that those of us who have access to the parts system can actually go and look at your machine.? Also can you clarfiy exactly which pins you are talking about. I'm assuming that you mean what's known as the "B Pin" which connect the Lift Arms to the bucket, but I could be wrong. FYI the 5K6383 is shown as being discontinued with no replacement, which is somewhat strange.
Nige, we appreciate your relentless support to the cause. It’s thanks to you n a previous post that I don’t really know the serial number. The engine reads 11k 1133 which I believe you interpreted as 11k 01133. I’m measuring the B pin, but on this machine the upper link arms are the exact same pin on the bucket upper links. I sure appreciate your expertise to the community! Bobby
5K6383 has a Yellow Mark 241-2612 number.
5K6383 is the correct Part Number for that location on an 11K machine. All I can add to the measurements posted by HMC above is that the hole for the locking bolt is located 1.8" from the end of the pin and is 0.772" in diameter. The base material of the pin is a "modified" 1040 carbon steel, but it doesn't say how.......
I ended up locating aftermarket pins for cheaper than I could weld/machine them. Had on eBay for $70/each shipped in early 2023. Part number 5K6383 was correct OD in spite of the listing stating 2”. A good sloppy welding job on the bucket and a die grinder really tightened things up. Thanks all for the help!
I'am Having trouble to get those Pins out so I can repack the Cylinder Rods. I have a homebuild puller for the 1 1/8 inch by 12 hole where the grease zirk hole is, and also a 50 ton Hydraulic jack pushing on the inside of the pin. I used Heat and the pin still wont budge. Any suggestions from anyone? Machine is 977K 11K1345. Thanks
cut them out
I have thought of that but as a last resort. There must be a way to get them to move. I will weigh the cost of the new pins, versus calling a local service Cat truc, to come and push them for me. They use a hanging 250 Ton Press, but service rates are horrible. Thanks
Or thermic lance if you can get hold of one. And buy aftermarket pins. The poster just above got his for $70 each earlier this year. You’re not going to get much dealer support for $140.
Sounds like the pin is either hung up on a wear step in the pin or the pin has seized in the bore somewhere. Make sure you don't have anything putting pressure on the pin, like a cylinder leaking down or blocking not 100% holding up something. Is the pin free to turn in the bore when it doesn't have any pull or push on it? If so, it must be hung up on a step of some sort. On the other hand, if it won't turn, check your blocking or get out your oxygen lance and burn it out... Comment to Nige: My guess for the "modified" pin is that it is plain 1040 steel shafting, possibly hardened, with a 0.010" layer of hard chrome plating on it, which will take it to the 2.52" OD. Unless this machine is metric, in which case the pin is 64mm diameter....nah! Jon.
Mine slid right out, but I brought a 50 ton hollow core air over hydraulic jack home from work to pull the track pins, I couldn’t imagine it not pulling bucket pins. As I’m sure you know the key is a good straight pull and help on the back end with a sledge or your other jack if possible. PM me for my cell if you have any questions. Bobby
I will check for the pins having pressure on them. I have the bucket down and Flat on the ground. Iam using the cross stansion to rest a wooden cross table I built from 2x12 Planks, to hold the 50 Ton Hydraulic Jack pushing the Pin. I have a pin puller made from 1x3" steel to draw the Pin from the Pull hole. I can feel the threads slipping and not pulling much, but may help once the pin breaks loose. I'am sure these pins have never been pulled since mfr. I will start the machine and check for any rod pressure. Just wondering if heating the outer part of the Lever housing, then using Dry Ice on the pin would work while under pressure ??? Thanks everyone.
The problem, as I am sure you have found, when you push the pin from the inside is that the lift arm bends. This causes the pin to bind up in the bores of the bucket and lift arm. That’s why the threaded hole is there in the pin to pull on. I still believe that if nothing is moving even so much as a millimetre then the answer is to break out the cutting gear. If you actually manage to get the pin out and find that it’s ridged then you’re going to be buying new pins anyway.
Hi Nige Thanks for all you good info. Yes the Levers do spread at the top, mostly because of the lower pins on the lift arms are worn too. You gave me a good idea though. I'am going to run a chain through the top eyelets, as it appears to be plenty of space there to do that, then use a chain binder to pull them straight. Hope that helps, it cant hurt. I have a lathe and Welder,in case te pins need rebuilt. Also Wearsheild Rods to build them up with. Thanks for all the great input. I will post how everything goes.
Back in for Lunch. I got the Levers chained together at the top with the chain binder, it looks straight and the Push Jack apparatus is level with tremendous pressure now. I started the machine up and moved the bucket rams in an out hoping it would break loose. It hasn't yet even with heat. I will try again later.
I would not waste my time messing with those knacker jobs of pins, just get the cutting torch focused and burn them out, the effort to try and save something than is time done is not good use of your time on this Earth, its like pressing out an old Track pin, its not worth your effort so cut it out and fit new.
You may be right, but I'am Retired and on a fixed Income. This is my Toy and trying to work on it with, the tools I have. My Ox just ran out so can't heat or cut anything, until the holiday is done and get more. I done the Lift Cylinders with no problem, except getting the Big Nut off the Rod. Had to use my skid loader and a 10' cheater pipe and a 4' Pipe Wrench. I have a Double Hammer 1" Impact but not sure I can lift it anymore, will try once I get this one apart. Had a thought, that the top Pin on the Can might come out easier. I could pull it that way and rebuild the Head and rod seals. Maybe ?? Thanks
Nige I just watched a Youtube video of an ARCAIR system to burn the holes in the Pins. Looks impressive, I'll check and see If I can rent one when I get my OX refiled Tuesday. Looks like the thermic lance You mentioned but a new version. Works on Ox/12Vdc .
Just found the correct Cat part number for the Bucket Pins which are aprox 3" Dia and 8 1/2" long. Part number = 6K1983 weighs 17.6 lbs One source wants $241.66 and free shipping each another wants $ 72.66 each and $40.80 shippng. Just wondering if I can drill a hole through the pin or is it too hard to do that?
AISI 1040 is a medium carbon steel containing around 0.40% carbon, and can be heat treated at 844 to 899°C (1550 to 1650°F) followed by quenching in water and tempering. 1040 steel can be tempered at 316 to 705°C (600 to 1300°F) based on the desired strength. 1040 steel can also be satisfactorily flame hardened. This steel can also be hardened by cold working. Cold working is the plastic deformation of metals below the recrystallization temperature, done with high pressure machinery in the factory. The tensile strength of 1040 is around 90,000psi, so it rates as a high-tensile steel, but it can be drilled satisfactorily. I'd be using a cobalt alloy drill bit. You'll need an extra long drill, or you'll need to drill from both sides. The hardened areas will provide major resistance to drilling, although the hardened areas should only be on the outer circumference of the pin. Encore Metals - 1040-1045 www.encoremetals.com
The Arcair Slice is what I was talking about for removing pins. It's just a newer version of a thermic lance that doesn't need an axy-acetylene torch to fire it up klike the old-school ones did. Works very well for getting equalizer bar centre pins out on tractors.
Firstly might I ask if you would accept my sincere apology as I was not aware of your situation, I am sort of Retired now at near 68 and have trimmed down my work hours a slight amount, I totally understand your comment of doing it with what you have about, I feel I cannot now add anything to help you but my very best wishes with this task as your years of getting it done will pay off and make it happen, I have all the Service Press tooling and let nothing become to big a problem, its an easy job to me but I am not in your Back Yard, so I need to again extend my Apology and wish you nothing but success.
tctractors You need not apologize for your comments, I was just explaining why I can't just cut into my tractor without trying. Your doing great, and I'am sure everyone benefits your's and everyone's input. I'am just one old guy that grew up and not throwing anything away. Headed for Ox refill tomorrow, and ask about the Arcair tool. I would like to have one, if not too expensive. I thought about the pin having a ledge, that may be keeping it from poping out. I pulled off the Rod puller that was in the Grease Zirk hole, reinserted the Zirk and filled it up with fresh grease, and hopefully any void created by a ledge. Yesterday I tried giving the 50 Ton Jack some more pressure, and it broke the chain, I had to hold the Levers together at the top. Got it back together and will try again tomorrow and apply lots of heat. Thanks everyone. Oh by the way I just turned 80 July 9th. Still got the 40's mind but body a lot slower. Ha
You’re going to get this done, and doing fine with what you have to work with. If you’re within a few hours of WV private message me and we’ll make it happen if I can help in any way.
Been away mowing, but back at the 977 Bucket Pin problem. I have another way I am going to try. I purchased a few pounds of dry ice at a grocery store. I will release the pressure off the 50 Ton Jack, then remove the 12"x 2 1/2" piece of hollow cold rolled steel thats pushing the pin. It has a hollow center, that I will fill with the dry ice. Then I plan to put a plastic shroud around it like a milk jug or similar, and also fill it with the dry ice. This should transfer the cold to the pin pretty good. I could also shroud the other side which has the pin puller rod in it and also dry ice it. Then put the 50 ton Jack under great pressure again, and reheat the Lever Eylets on the inside as well as the Hydraulic Rod Eyelet. Something has got to give. I will Post what happens next. Thanks everyone for your support.