Hi Folks. We had the adjuster seal on our D3-79U fail a few days ago. I ordered the seal kit, and have done the same job on our JD350 and 450 dozers before. In the Deere procedure it wasn't necessary to split the track in order to get the idler off to get at the yoke. I see in our service manual that track removal is required. Is there a trick (such as pulling the idler all the way back to get slack) to get the track clear enough to pull the idler wheel? Asking for a friend, though I have fewer when it comes to repairing heavy iron, so it looks like it's me asking! Any and all help and/or suggestions is much appreciated. We have to do this off-grid in the mountains. Thanks, -Tom
Ideally it’s a split the track job, and if the master link is a crocodile type that’s not a difficult task on something the size of a D3. However if the track link joints are somewhat worn it may be possible to slide the idler far enough back to clear the track. Then slide the track sideways far enough to allow you to pull the idler forward out of the way and gain access to the tensioner. A lot will depend on the ground conditions around the machine.
I never have wished for worn track links, though this time is possibly an exception. I was able to get the yokes back and slip the tracks sideways for clearance in the JDs, so I might get lucky. If not, pulling the track master pin will be yet another new adventure. About 5 years ago I had to rebuild the final and replace the clutch and throwout bearing on a JD1020 track loader. I had seen a video of a fellow using a Proto 10-HDL C-clamp and an 8 lb sledge to pull the master pin instead of a press, so I got lucky and found a new one from a private party which I was able to get for around $250 (which seemed like a bargain compared to list). I was getting set up to pull the pin when I noticed that the retaning clip was missing. As I slacked the track I was surprised to find I could push the pin out with my finger! So I just might have to put the new C-clamp to work if my luck fails me. Thanks as always Nigel! -Tom
Back in the days of master pins we never used a track press on the master. Always was a b&o (pin driver) and a 16 pound hammer
Happy to report that despite buying a backout punch in anticipation of having to blow the master pin out, we were able topull the idler wheel all the way back, then use a couple of sleever bars to pry the track off the idler and had enough pin wear to pull the track over to the side. We broke a bolt while trying to get the yoke unbolted from the idler, so we loadied both into my truck and brought it back to my shop. The yoke rod was badly pitted around the seal area and needs replacing. Getting the other three bolts off without breaking will be an excercise in patience and restraint! No to mention drillng out and re-tapping the broken bolt!