Hi all, thanks for letting me join. I'm a rookie small time farmer with a dozer and backhoe I have a D3 (no letter) that I'm trying to fix up. I'm having trouble dropping the oil pan in the chasis. The service manual just says to unbolt it and remove but that doesn't seem to be the case. So I guess I'm asking what's the trick? Thanks
If you have all the bolts out start carefully prying at it they can get awful stuck
I've made it past the stuck oil pan ...it seems like the oil pickup tube is in the way.
not sure how much room you have but likeiy have to get in there some how and unbolt the pu tube. is the belly pan off?
The belly pan is off. I can drop the pan about an inch before it hits the beam between the track frames. I haven't been able to bend the locking tabs down to get a wrench on the bolts due to the tight space.
I couldn't remember if on them there was something in that way or not must be
On my D3B the oil sump will not let the pan drop far enough to remove.
All Dodge, that seems to be my problem too. Is there a work around?
If it's anything like a D3B/931B the engine has to come out to remove the oil pan because the cross beam for the track frames is in the way. I'm guessing but is the service manual just referencing the engine by itself and not in the machine? On a 931B the engine and transmission also have to come as one unit because there is not enough room. Even the transmission mounts have to be removed.
Dave, I was afraid of that. I think it is very much like a d3b. My manual specifically says the oil pan can be removed in chasis. But I don't see how. It also doesn't mention anything about the oil sump being in the way. That makes me doubt the manual. I was hoping I could unbolt the motor mounts and lift the engine slightly to gain the clearance or something. Anyone ever try that? Something else? I would rather not pull the engine if I can help it.
What manual do you have?
I have a cat service manual and a parts book for my d3 in the correct serial number range. No mention of the sump as being a problem. The whole oil pan removal section is like 8 lines
I appreciate the advice even if it isn't what I want to hear
I had a d3b that spit out a rod bushing and I pulled the pan and head, I think the pan will wiggle down enough to take the p/utube off and let it lay in the pan
The motor can be removed without the trans, I did that during rebuild HeavyEquipmentForums
On a D3B the engine may be able to come out sperate. On a 931B loader it can't because you have the loader towers and a lot more frame to deal with.
On a side note and hind sight, I wish I would have pulled and gone thru the trans during my rebuild.
When I took it in, the shop checked the transmission screen and it was clean so they said that's a good sign the transmission is good. Never had any problems with the trans., just need to let it warm up in colder weather.
Well I got the oil pan down without removing the engine. I ended up unbolting the cross beam from the rest of the frame, and the rear track frame mounts. Then I jacked the front up so that it pivoted on the finals. It gave me plenty of room to get the pan out.
General tips for oil pans in dozers. Obviously this will not work for everything...but if something works then it beats the hell out of pulling engine. 1) sometimes it’s possible to remove pan without doing anything special. Almost never happens for me of course. If so, great! 2) Next step is to pull off the pickup bell and see if that will give you clearance. You’ll have to do a little blind wrenching and cursing. 3) Bar the engine over to different positions, sometimes crank gets in way 4) unbolt engine mount bolts or loosen them enough and lift engine up a little with crane. This is usually a viable option to try because if it doesn’t work and you have to pull engine anyway, you’ve done a few of the steps needed to pull it and thus it’s not a waste of time.