Before I make a fool out of myself,I'll ask.Can I pull the brake/clutch assy out of my D3B (dry clutch) without pulling the fuel and oil tanks? I have them ready to pull.Just have two bolts in the clutch cylinder,and one bolt left in the brake drum.Looks like its gonna be a PITA if I must pull the tanks.Thanks for any help!!
Yes they will squeez out with tanks in place. Later Bob
Thanks, for great news!
Well,the right side is out.There was three inches of water in the bottom.Someone had left the brake ajuster cover loose.Its really rusty in there,but will bead blast up OK.The clutch plates I ordered are the ones with the steel center and not all fibre.The problem I'm having now is my 2 5/8 socket, will not fit down inside the clutch spring retainers.So I'm going to make a tool and put the whole mess in the press,and take the springs and retainers off one at a time.That will make room for the socket.If anyone knows of a problem with that please chime in!----Oh the throw out bearing feels smooth as glass, I'm debating on weather to replace them or not,don't want to go back in there, but some times the OE stuff is better than new.
You need the right plates. The socket needs to be turned down to fit in there. You need to be carefully not to press the tapered shaft in to the hub anymore than 10 ton. Manuals say 20 but that will split the hub. You need a plate like a phone dial to compress the springs. If you tighten the nut with an impact keep the drum on or the plates will scramble the teeth up. Later Bob
Thanks Bob,made a tool and got the springs out, and the nut off.My OTC manual puller won't push out the shaft. My sons bringing a ten ton hydro, from work tonight.Hope it's enough! New clutches and band linings just came through the door, so just have to get seals for the slave cylinder, and control valves.BTW, there was no oil in the clutch housings,How prone are the seals in the bevel case, and pinion housing to leaking into the brake housing? I'm leaning on leaving as is.Thanks. OBTW "plate like a phone dial" your giving up your age,who remembers those!!!
Well, it came apart with a bang.Now it looks like i need to make a spanner for the throw out bearing nut.
Still have a party line/semi private I guess if we had another party on it, that makes it a private line because nobody knows to ask for a semi private. I think you should find a shop press with a tonnage gauge on it. That will press the stub shaft out and back in right. Just support the hub close to the center or you might break it. The two holes the lock plate is bolted down with are for the long bolts to the plate or H bar to press it apart. You need a sleeve tight to the stub to support the hub pressing together. Later Bob
Ok,I got both sides out,and the worst side torn down.Its going good so far.The only thing I'm not sure of is when I split the inner bevel gear flange from the clutch hub (six bolt side) there was about two oz of oil that spilled into the brake case.It came from inside of the flange.I don't see any ring or seal to keep it from coming out around the bolts.The seals are dry and there was no oil in the cases,when I started.Is this normal?
Another setback,started to put one side back together today.Was assembling the clutch pack.Was looking at the splines where the shaft presses in and,Ya it's cracked,in three places.Im guessing that eather it was pressed to hard at one time, or shocked real hard trying to unstick the clutch pack.
Don't count Cat out on prices!Went internet, shopping for a new brake hub this morning.Price ranged from $340 down to $256 plus shipping.Called Mich Cat new priced a new one $785 wow. BUT! the salesman said it was available in the "classic line" for $220 and they will bring it on the truck next week free!!--Not bad