can someone please tell.me if the solid link is the master or not. got to replace seals in slack adjuster.
Post a photo of the link showing the links either side of it. That will help clarify if what you think is the master link actually is.
is the solid link the master if so which side do you try to knock out
You don't remove (knock out) a pin. That's an alligator style master link. Unbolt the grouser.
so is this a better setup than a pin that must be pressed out. sure hope so this is my first time working on tracks. really appreciate the help and information
From the photo it looks very much like a split master link. Wire brush diagonally top left to bottom right just to confirm. BEFORE you start pulling it apart there are some things you should be doing..... 1. Position the master link over the bottom half of the drive sprocket, just high enough to be able to fit a good hardwood block under the grouser of the link below the master link. (Don’t put the block in just yet) 2. Release the grease out of the track tensioner. 2. Get the front idler as far back as possible by using something like the pin from the tow bar in the top of the sprocket and gently easing the tractor backwards. A 2-man job, one operating, one watching from the ground. 4. Now ease the tractor back until the weight is nicely on the block at the sprocket and remove the bolts from the master shoe. The block will hold everything together. Everything ought to come apart relatively easily at that point.
Here's a better explanation of what I was trying to say earlier ........
thanks guys it does have split master link setup. maybe all will go well in replacing seal to the tensioner
Split your tracks on the front idler and back machine up far enough to get to adjuster. Move idler out far enough to get to seals. you can pull tracks back together with a come along. Good luck Bob
That's the Berco style master link. It's a little tougher to put back together than the Cat but still works OK. I second spitting tracks on the front idler. You only have to back up the machine a little bit to have the track clear the front of the track frame enough to get to the adjuster.
I agree with the above. I missed the OP bit about wanting to reseal a leaking track adjuster. Splitting the master link is basically the same procedure whichever end of the track frame you choose to do it though.... If the blade would come off easily that would make working around the front idler a much more simple job. Something like a D3 it might be a bit tight in there with a blade installed.
It's a PAT blade guru. Bob