I don't have manual as of now do you need special puller to remove final drive sprocket? Serial 5kg01070 suppose to be 90 model Thanks in advance for letting me join your site.
Are you asking about what is needed to remove the sprocket hub.?
Yes the hub the sprocket is segmented
I am hoping I don't need the big hydraulic puller. I CHANGED OIL IN LEFT FINAL DRIVE AND FOUND WHAT APPEARS TO BE A PIECE OF PINION GEAR.
You're going to need some fairly heavy kit even though it's only a small machine. 9S8900 is a 70-ton capacity cylinder. Procedure attached. Sorry about the quality of the photos but it was pretty much the standard back in the day.
Thanks Nige that is going to be difficult to find someone with the tool to do this in my area.
You will also need to press it back on tightening the nut will not get it tight enough
Thanks seems like this may a big issue,have not been able to locate anyone having the tool in my area.
There should be a independent mechainic or maybe ask around if you know someone that works at a mine. Not sure but I think you pull the top pinion from the steering chuch compartment if bull gear is not damaged you can just replace the pinion
Thanks for replying,I have checked with couple independents they don't have the press for it.Guess I will bite the bullet call dealer and see what they say.Most of the repair shops only work on Deere in this area.
Trial Pic post,also these are pieces came out of final drive any idea what I may be looking at for repair?
I’m not a fitter,but those are expensive bits of gears that appear receant.They aren’t from a previous failure as they would have been easy to clean out. The whole final will need to be stripped and assessed as you’ve allready figured out.I wouldn’t go any further into it until you’ve located a qualified fitter that’s got experience in pulling final drives.If they are as hard to find as you suggest,I’d be pulling both sides down at the same time. At the very least you’ve got a considerable labour expense to go at and a lot of wait and see drama to look forward to.An experienced fitter will be looking at any issues with the top pinions incase the entire bevel case needs to see daylight. I’m sorry to be negative here and wish you good luck.
Thanks I got 1 quote of 10,000 for a rebuild changed oil in other side was perfectly clean.
Be prepared to mortgage your family.
The downside of having it repaired by a dealer (if that is who quoted you) is that they will only install new OEM parts if you want the repair to carry a warranty. Doing it that way would cut out the option to reduce the cost considerably by using aftermarket (or even good second hand) parts. I suppose a lot depends on how many hours/year the machine gets used.
Bige it was a dealer quote,it is a farm dozer. I am considerig removing whole unit and maybe get it rebuilt since i don't have access to puller,option 2 wait until spring and do it all myself and get dealer to remove hub.
Drag Racer,unfortunately a clean plug on the other side is no indication that something isn’t going wrong.All it means,that it hasn’t started to fail today. With final drives,you can remove both track frames yourself in preparation for your specialist coming and only paying him to do the very skilled work. By having both finals apart at the same time,it’s very common to swap parts from each final to the other in order to wear both sides out evenly. Clearly any big gear lumps that have broken up are likely scrap,but you never know your luck.I’ve done a few of these on larger D6/D8 and D9 tractors that I own over the years and from experience I can tell that the side you think is allright is allways in worse shape than you expected. I will also point out,that as an experienced owner,I’ve allways understood it’s wise to get an experienced fitter to take the job on and not try it yourself.It takes experience to know what parts you can and can’t put back into it.Your Cat dealer will simply scrap everything that doesn’t meet their strict tolerances as is their way.They have no choice. It’s also a dangerous game to play with the tooling.It’s a baby of a tractor,but the pain will be same as a big one if things start flying. The key here is finding a good man to do the job. Good luck
On the Little D3 it's easy work depending on the way the track frame is mounted, some sprockets will pull off without moving the frame, the D3 / 931 type f/drive is about the easiest ones to tackle on CAT equipment, i still get called out to do them but would like 2 or 3 a week, best of luck tctractors.
Thanks TC sprockets can remove without moving frame.
I understand what you are saying,I don't lack mechanical skill,social tooling complicates this job,thanks for responding.
Looking for D5 manuals for another forum member in my pile of Cat documents, I found a number of manuals for your machine, including a complete service manual if you are looking for one. I can look at what other documents I have that apply to your machine as well.
I would take the service manual and parts manual if you have 1 or both.
It appears I have the service manual, SENR3800, parts manual SEBP1775-01 and the O&M manual SEBU6155-02. We should probably get Nige to verify these are correct for your machine. I am no expert but he certainly is!
Nige can you verify if these are the correct manuals for My D3C serial # 5kg01070. Service manual Senr3800 Parts manual SEBP1775-01 ,thanks in advance for your help.
All three manuals are correct for a 5KG-prefix D3C. As mentioned on the other thread if the SENR3800 manual is complete it should contain a copy of the O&M SEBU6155.
SEBU6155-02 is in the manual as well as a stand alone copy.
Curious if final drive issues are very common on D3B/931B machines and what are the symptoms? My 931B is running good and the oil is nice clean but just wondering if there are any tell tale signs of final drive issues? Sprockets don't appear to have any side to side play.
Others may have more input mine had no unusual noises ,only reason I found problem was changing oil.
I will take these manuals