Does anyone know if you can just undo the rubber briskets and slide input flange out and replace the seal? Or do you have to remove torque converter cover and install it from inside of the cover? Serial number on dozer is 83j-3795
Yes, you can replace the seal in place. It's a bit of a tight spot to get the new seal in. Easiest is to make a tool to pull it into place.
Ok, thanks.
Those bolts that go in around the seal don’t hold anything inside??
Yes, they do hold a carrier in place to the outer casing, but it can't fall away when you remove the bolts. Be aware that those bolts are not concentric around the center. You can also use a flat bar with just two holes and something like an old bearing shell to pull the seal in. I have managed to tap a seal or two into place over the years but its a gamble in that awkward space and you'd better have a spare seal on hand.
Got one more question for you, it has a winch and a logging type roller assembly on the back, do you have to remove all of that to adjust brakes and steering clutch’s??
No experience with winches here, but it appears there is no access from the back with them attached. You can still gain access to do the settings from the covers under the seat with a little more difficulty, so no need to remove the winch.
Ok, thanks, I am going to have to get a service manual, don’t know how much free play there should be on the peddles?
https://www.dropbox.com/s/uncjtpj45...ssembly_Assembly_D4D_Tractor_REG00892_01_.pdf
Thanks, that manual will be very helpful!
Well, got the seal out, and looking in there at the bearing it appears that the bearing is bad. Looks like it is missing about half of the ball bearings. Can a person remove the torque converter cover without removing the transmission or has this just turned into a major job?
I seem to remember someone on one of the forums trying that some years back, but can't recall the result. I would recommend dropping out the whole converter and rebuilding it as the other bearings have probably taken a pounding too. Not a huge job, just a bit of a squeeze to get it in and out.
Ok, the manual shows taking out the entire transmission, was just hoping to avoid that if at all possible. Is tha input shaft connected directly to the converter or does it slide off of converter and come out with the front cover??
You don't have to remove the transmission. You would split the converter from the trans at the 2nd row of bolts (holding the entire converter to the transmission casing), not the bolts which hold the front cover of the converter in place Splines connecting the t/c to trans. The t/c shaft goes about 2'' into trans.Also 2 short steel tubes between t/c and trans control valve which will give you a bit of grief. Best is to put the machine on blocks to give more clearance underneath.
. Ok, have it sitting on 4x12 Timbers. Hope that is enough! Thanks for the help! I will keep you posted.
very wrong; that late a serial number will probably have the live drive pto attachment. And converter can not come off in place. Converter and trans has to come out in one piece. Does it have the pto drive disconnect lever down by your left heel. ? That you use to disengage drive to the tracks when using the winch ?? If not and you just pull on the winch lever to start winching; then it has the live drive setup. Live drive has a long shaft that is direct drive off the transmission pump gear. A completely different PTO design to any other cat crawler. Trust me i have been in there on my D4E which has same setup. Unless of course it has a hydraulic winch driven off the crawler hydraulics ? But if its a Cat 54 winch or hyster W5A or B then it is pto driven
I believe it has a hydraulic winch, appears to have two lines coming from hydraulic pump on motor back to the winch. Only lever on the floor is brakes and Parking brake lever. And decelerator pedals.
Merv is 100% correct if it has the pto setup. Apologies, that didn't even cross my mind as winches are almost non existent on these machines in my part of the world. Most came with a no4 ripper as standard equipment.
Do you know what model winch it is ?? Cat 54 winch has winch pump driven off timing gear case on LHS. But this is NOT a hydraulic winch. That pump provides power to engage forward clutch, and also to release brake. It is a PTO winch.
Any way to tell what model of winch it is? Just see a couple part numbers on it. I do believe it is a cat winch. Has a little site glass on lower right hand side. Hydraulic lines coming from a pump on engine.
There is a pump mounted below hydraulic pump that is running it.
Try posting a photo of it maybe.? Somebody ought to be able to recognize it.
Here are some pictures of the winch. Looking underneath it, it looks like it is coupled to the transmission. Do you have to pull the winch to pull the transmission?
3P4301 is the casting number for the 3P4302 case part number so it is a #54 19Exxxx s/n winch.
Looking at replacing the rubber biskets between the engine and transmission that attach it all together and wondering what they are called can’t seem to find them anywhere
It is called a flexible coupling. Part number that I have is 5S7893
Depending on the Serial Number of your tractor which you didn't mention the 5S-7893 Joint may or may not be the correct Part Number. If you plan on replacing the flexible joints it might pay you to check, & set as required, the alignment between the engine and the transmission to reduce stress on the joints.
Exactly what I need thank you.