I have recently replaced engine coolant guage because it was inop, now that guage was replaced water temp will go to 170-180 and never go any higher. My concern is now antifreeze will vent out of small bolt on cap with vent hole in it , next to large screw on cap in radiator. after 20 minutes of running engine, antifreeze venting out of cap ,shut down engine and removed large screw on cap looked into radiator and discovered radiator still full of coolant. Do i need to vent engine some how when filling radiator and posibly did not get water back in block after replacing coolant temp sensor. Did not have any overheat issue, or radiator pressure venting problem until Ireplaced sending unit and lost some coolant from engine block. any advice would be appreciated , thank you
Don't overfill the radiator, leave it down a couple inches in the tank for expansion. If you fill it right to the top of the cap there is no where for it to go except out the relief when it expands
Sounds pretty normal. One note that bolt on cap the coolant is venting out is the pressure cap for the system. Not a bad idea to remove it and replace the valve inside every couple of years. You will need 2-5S4629-gaskets, 1-5S1218-valve and I like to replace the bolts 5-1A9579 and anti-seeze them to make it easy next time you do this.
Okay I understand the expansion of antifreeze if there is no room in radiator, but out of vent. But after short time of running engine medium throttle, steam was venting out of vent, shut down engine, looked in radiator expecting to find low on coolant ,but was still full of water. Can my thermostat be sticking or again possibly did I trap air in system and did not get water back in block.
Steam coming out of the PRV suggests that it's goofed. As a first step I would do what KSH suggested and replace the valve along with the gaskets, he's given you the part numbers. If it's not working correctly then nothing else in the sysem will work correctly either. Once you know the system is pressurizing correctly you can start to think about what else might be wrong. You may find the the PRV is the only thing that's wrong. Replacing the thermostat might also be a good idea, especially if you have no idea when it was last replaced, but I would not touch that until you have tried replacing the PRV. Another good idea would be to replace the rubber seal on the underside of the screw-on radiator cap.
If the temp goes to 170-180 and not beyond I'd say the coolant is circulating normally. Run it with the cap off and check for bubbles in the radiator. Bubbles indicate combustion gasses in the cooling system via a crack, low liner, head gasket etc.
With everyones help I have found combustion leak in radiator. Engine not overheating, but will build up alot of pressure with cap on. Also witnessed lots of bubbles and vapors venting out of top of radiator with cap off , immediatly after start up. Know trying to find out what engine I have, cat d6c, serial # 10k03438, also under tag stamped on engine block #3200 thank you
D6C 10K s/n should be a 3306
If it was a 3306 surely the engine would have a separate Serial Number to the tractor. A quick look in SIS for that S/N range shows engine number the same as tractor Serial Number. I'm not sure but to me that indicates D300 series engine..?
Nige is correct, you have the D333 engine. The 10K series did not get the 3306 until s/n 10K7953
In that case the answer to the OP is that the engine model is a D333 and the engine Serial Number will be the same as the tractor Serial Number for the purpose of procuring spare parts.
Nige, you have missed off the C from the end of the 3's
I stand humbly corrected - D333C.
Sorry I did not see any thing on SIS that indicates any mention of the D333C. Tried looking in the "As Built" section but that says no information available.
When Cat went from the D300 engine range to 3200, 3300, 3400, and even today with the latest C-Series engine, they subtly changed their parts listings and this gives a clue what to look for. If you look at something in the engine like the 5S-6778 Cylinder Block the listing will say something like "D6C Track-Type Tractor equipped with 3306 engine" so you know immediately what the engine is. However for a machine from way back like this D6C the parts listing simply says "D6C Tractor Powershift", giving you a clue that the engine is a D300-series. Not a definitive method but from memory it's never let me down yet.
I have removed my cyc head on my d333c engine and have found crack at # 5 cyc between valves. I am in the process of ordering parts , but I would like to know peoples opinion of after market engine in frame kits, and aftermarket new loaded cyc head. I am not sure about having my cyc head welded because I dont want to have to go back in engine in a couple of years. also one supplier is saying on inframe kit with serial # 10k3438 and engine # 3200 that parts super cede to 3306 engine. I have found picture of d333c cyc head and it looks just like my cyc head. Therefore I am pretty sure cyc head is different. Thanks for every ones help.Also one supplier is saying the d333c takes different valves from a d333t, turbo engine , my engine does have a torbo in cyc head
The 333C head is not the same as the 3306, the bore size pin and rod bearings should be handy though, the valve lenght is slightly off also the 3306 can have I think 6 differing sorts of valves, the fact that your head is a knacker job leads up to "Why" your engine is suffering cooling dramas, anyhow to save a load of print waste it would be a good job to pop up a picture of your engine possibly showing ether the water pump or the front part of the head, having the head welded is costly and those heads are not to bad to replace with CGR parts .
Cylinder head assy for 10K3438 is part #9S7515 which upgrades to a #1P4303 with(casting # 1P4302).