Serial Number : BMA29284 Hours : about 6,000 I went and looked at this tractor today. The Bad : It is missing the doors and the sheet metal has been torn apart from inexperienced operator clearing timber. The interior doesn't look much better. In other words it looks terrible. Undercarriage is shot. The Good : Runs great I can get this machine for $2,500 Would you buy it ? Thanks for your input
Worth more than that disassembled for parts and/or scrap..?
Are you kidding on price? Seriously that can't be a correct price if it has a functioning engine and transmission. Like Nige said it's worth more than that as scrap and even more as a parts machine.
Not kidding at all.
If I were you I would beat the door down to hand that man $2500. You could make $10K with a phone call to your Cat dealers used parts line...
Do you know the seller personally or know him to be reputable? If not can he prove ownership and the machine to be free of liens? It sounds fishy to me and a great deal may not turn out to so great if the machine ends up being stolen, gets repossessed by his creditors, is tied up in a lawsuit or divorce, etc. I hate to be negative, but sometimes when a deal sounds too good to be true it’s time to be suspicious.
None of that...……………………..its a legit deal with proper paper work.
Yes, I agree with what you wrote. I know the seller. He bought and paid cash $49,000 4 years ago.
He was asking 5,000 for it, offered 2,500 and he accepted. Ill let yall know how it works out.
Got two new batteries put in . Cranked right up , moved forward and moved in reverse. The Dash looks like a Christmas tree (a lot red lights blinking) and the buzzer going off sounds like a nuke attack. Ordered a operators manual to find out what all the red lights mean LOL
Bye the way, my machines are old school. D9H, D8K, D6D ect. these newer machines have too much going on...…………….Ha
Pics?
Of what ?
The dozer...
Don't know how to add pics. send me your number , ill text them
Paul did a great tutorial on how to post pics here on HEF. It's not hard. HeavyEquipmentForums
Has the process to up load pictures changed since that instruction was published or is it maybe something to do with my browser? When I click on the icon for image up at the top of the box I'm writing this message in the only option I see is to insert a URL for the image. The way I have added pictures for as long as I can recall is to use the blue button at the bottom of the box this text is being entered in: That one with the red arrow pointing to it. Then I locate the image file on my computer and double click on it to get it on the post and then select either the "Thumbnail" or "Full image" button. By the way I'm using Chrome for my browser if that says anything!!
Well disregard that link and my advice - I though that was up to date. Long, hot week.. Kshansen that is the way to post pics. Hit the upload file, choose your file off the computer and be sure to click the "Full Image" button instead of a thumbnail. Sample pic of a project we are finishing up.
Nice looking pick-up! Built back in the day no one gave a thought to mounting the gas tank inside the cab where driver was probably smoking his Marlboros! If that is the owner standing behind it I would not touch the truck or you might be in big trouble!
Photos
Another
tried to upload a file with the engine running, but it said its too large
how did a truck in deluth get in my thread ?
I think that was just someone showing that my instructions on uploading a picture would work! As for uploading the video I know many people will upload them to Youtube and then just post a link in the thread here for other to go there and view it.
Just a sample pic on my phone - we are finishing up a Duluth Trading Co. and I stepped inside a few days ago to snap a pic, store isn't open yet.
haha I was kidding about the deluth.
Thanks for the help guys about posting stuff
sounds good, under carriage is gone, why is the 1 track off for
Well,if that's genuine and above board,at 2500 dollars,I would not publish any information on a public forum until it was safely in my possession. I don't understand why you're even asking wether you should buy it or not. Get it bought sir.
IMHO one of the first things you should consider is what you're planning on using it for, then when you're buying replacement undercarriage select a more "appropriate" track shoe width. The wide shoes that are currently installed are probably what trashed the U/C if the tractor was used on ground similar to what's shown in your photos.
The track is off because the owner broke a pin and and he drove it off lol.
Nige, can I put standard width tracks on the machine ?
The idlers on this machine are not round. They have what looks like teeth , ive never seen idlers that look like those.
A clarification. The track link group (aka chain or rail as it's often called in the US) is the same. The shoes are bolted on to the links. So you can put whatever width of shoes you like on any link so long as the bolt holes line up. Your tractor S/N ALY02331 (BMA29824 is the engine S/N) was originally built with Cat's SystemOne undercarriage with 34"-wide track shoes. The track that is split and on the ground is definitely S1. I'm not sure if the idlers on it today are S1, maybe someone can say for sure. They may be very early ones but the illustration in the Parts Manual does not show them like your photo. Can you see "Cat ©" and maybe a Part Number marked on them anywhere..? Track shoes for your specific D6N (which was built as an LGP machine with wide shoes) are available in 28", 33", & 34" wide. Standard tractors also had 22" and 24"-wide shoe options. So in extremis you could go from the 34"-wide shoes that are on the tractor now right down to 22"-wide shoes. None of the photos show the track rollers. Again S1 and HD are different. One thing I can say for sure is that it's not recommended to mix S1 undercarriage parts with Heavy Duty undercarriage parts. You say that you are in for a complete new undercarriage anyway, so you'll have to make the decision which type you go for. If you go for S1, Cat is pretty much your only source of supply. If you go for Heavy Duty then it opens your choices to pretty much every aftermarket undercarriage supplier out there in addition to Cat. There is documentation available to make the conversion from S1 to HD undercarriage. You probably need that first so that you can see exactly what you would have to buy, modify, etc, etc, in order to correctly change from S1 to HD and not screw anything up if you go that way. Last parting thought. You probably want to check both the equalizer bar pins/bearings and the pivot shafts to make sure nothing's worn out in those areas before you start to think about putting U/C on it. An alignment issue could cost you big style in premature wear of the new U/C.
if you are not in a big hurry to get going and not going to put a lot of hours on it , look for a burnt or flooded machine and get the under carriage from it and save some money
Personally,I'd have already had it back at my yard at 2500 dollars. Next,I'd be looking at another D6N to buy that's it good order and be keeping the dog d6 as a donor machine which will yield thousands of dollars in spare parts if needed. I'd be wary of trying to get that thing into a condition that is fit for service.It looks a dog of a money pit to me. 30k for tracks,eq bar and pivot shaft very likely shot,no doors,and a raft of flashing faults that may or may not be disaster to the bank balance. I can see 50k to bring that dog up to any sort of standard that's likely to make you profit. Save your money,and put it towards descent running d6n and buy the other for parts.
I bought it last week. im doing exactly what yall are saying to do. Im going to investigate what it needs and determine if its a parts machine or a fixer upper. If I find out what all the lights are about, I have already found a salvage machine to get undercarriage at a decent price I may make a nice profit fixing it and flipping it. If not, I will post it on machinery trader as a salvage parts machine.
Over here at least, that would still be cheap for a 13 year old tractor with 6000hrs.
For the lights you need an OMM Manual. $46 to download from Cat. I can give you “how to” instructions if you want them. Regarding the undercarriage, to reinforce what I said above if your salvage machine has S1 undercarriage the parts ought to be a straight swap. If on the other hand it has HD undercarriage then you may be in for a few mods in order to make the HD parts fit. It’s all do-able, I mention it only to make you aware that there will be “some home assembly required”........
Had some time this evening to get back out to the tractor. Got the tracks back on and ready for a welder to come weld a temporary pin in just to get it on a trailer back to my yard. I also pulled the error codes, I do not know if all of them are current ( I am not sure how to figure that out). 030 0600.04 0819.04 0826.04 114 2235.05 2233.03 2114.03 0875.03 0874.04 0874.03 0168.04 0262.04 0262.03 113 0070.02 0168.04 0177.03 0177.04 0190.02 0269.04 0299.13 0618.02 0622.02 0668.12 036 0164.11 Is that enough codes ? LOL
If you watch the video you will see the monitor will show servcode when one is active.
John , thank you very much that helped. Now I understand. I don't have that clicker box (but I will get one if I need it). Here are the active codes: 114 2114.03 114 0875.03 114 0874.03 113 0168.04 113 0177.03 113 0622.02 Is there a book I can buy to identify the codes ? a online download ect ? If yall know if these codes are a major problem or something minor would help. Again John, thanks a lot.
I have an old file with all the Cat codes. If you send me your email address in a message I'll send the file to you. Cat keeps coming up with new codes so I can't guarantee it will have all of what you show.
A link to the Click Box thread - HeavyEquipmentForums As a temporary thing you can actually erase all the Codes that are not Active using no more than a couple of pieces of wire, although the Click Box makes it a lot easier - see below You need to refer to the Click Box thread, because your two pieces of wire are going to be used as a McGiver'd replacement for the Click Box. Your attention is specifically drawn to the diagram in post #16 on Page 1 where I tried to explain how the Click Box interacts with the machine electrical system. Forget the Click Box part for now and concentrate on the wiring between the "Caterpillar Monitor System" and the "Monitor Service Connector" (MSC), a 4 pin Deustch connector with male pins in it..... The machine connector looks like the one in the photo. The two gold pins next to it are typical of the pins you'll find inside it. The mating sockets to those pins are like the one shown installed on the twisted end of the wire. Using them makes it easier to connect the wires. Strip both ends of the two pieces of wire. Twist one end of piece together to form what looks like a chicken wishbone common at one end and with two separate ends at the other. Crimp a Deutsch female connector pin to each of the bare ends. I would make the wires longer than shown in the photo. I just knocked that up to illustrate what the assembly looks like. This is what you do: - 1. To access the system in order to clear the Logged ones the Monitor Panel has to be put into Service Mode, so we're trying to duplicate the Click Box procedure of grounding both the Scroll and the Clear contacts of the Monitor System at the same time. This is what the Mode switch does if you look at the wiring diagram. 2. Connect one of the separate ends of the cable to Pin #1 (wire #290) of the MSC, and connect the other one to Pin #2 (wire #291) of the MSC. (The connector pin numbers are stamped on the back of it. I always use the Wire Numbers though, just to be sure.) 3. Turn the key on and let the panel do the self-test. Connect the common end of the wire assembly to Pin #4 (wire #200) of the MSC. The display panel should show -0- which will then change every couple of seconds to -1-, -2-, etc . 4. When the display shows -3- remove the wire from Pin #4. The -3- should disappear and the first of the list of Diagnostic Codes should appear. Be aware that every Code is displayed in two steps. The first is the module recording the Code (e.g. 030 or 113), the second is the Code itself (096F03, 248F01, etc.), so even though the display will change to show one after the other on an endless loop it's all really one Code that you are seeing. 5. If the first displayed Code is Logged, you can clear it - go to the next Step. If it is Active you will have to Scroll to the next Code on the list - go to Step 7. 6. Remove the wire from Pin #1 of the MSC, leaving only the wire connected to Pin # 2. Then touch the common end (that you previously removed from Pin #4) briefly back to Pin #4 which will ground the Clear connector of the MSC. The Code should disappear and when it does it should be replaced by the next Code on the list. Continue clearing until a message END or three dashes --- appears. This indicates that you have reached the end of the list of Codes in the Monitor. 7. To Scroll to the next Code in the event of coming across a Code that is Active, remove the wire from Pin #2. Connect a single end of your wire assembly to Pin #1. Briefly touch the common end of the wire assembly to Pin #4. The current displayed Code should scroll to the next Code in the list. Be careful, if two consecutive Codes are the same module (e.g. 030) you might think it hasn't scrolled. Give the new Code a couple of seconds to display completely before deciding whether it has scrolled to the next Code or not. 8. To summarize. If you clear a Logged Code the next Code on the list will automatically appear. If the next Code is Active you will need to Scroll the list in order to get to the next Logged Code. 9. There is nothing at all to stop you going through the Code list twice or even a dozen times if the mood takes you. 10. Once you finish clearing Codes the Monitor has to be put back to the Operating Mode again. Repeat Steps 3 and 4 above but obviously forget the first bit because your power is already on. The display will start at -3- and go upwards through each Mode in turn. I'm not sure how many Modes your particular Monitor has, it may be as many as 10, but no problem. Keep at it until it shows -0- again remove the wire from Pin #4 and you're done. The display should then return to the normal Operating Mode that you had before you started. Remove your wire assembly and put it somewhere safe. You are going to need it again once you've done some electrical repairs.
Here's what your Active Codes indicate: - 114 2114.03 - Accugrade Trigger Switch - incorrect signal. 114 0875.03 - Accugrade Manual Select Switch - incorrect signal. 114 0874.03 - Accugrade Auto Select Switch - incorrect signal. I didn't look too closely at the photos but I don't recall seeing anything obvious related to Accugrade on the machine, yet according to the system it was built with it - 233-0272 Grade Control Arrangement, Laser. 113 0168.04 - System Voltage Lower than 21.3V (If the voltage drops below 18V, the brakes will apply) 113 0177.03 - Transmission Oil Temperature Sensor - Voltage Above Normal 113 0622.02 - Transmission Upshift Switch. (This switch has two inputs to the ECM. The inputs are Normally Open and Normally Closed. During normal operation, one of the inputs is open and the other input is grounded. A failure is detected when both inputs are in the same state at the same time. The transmission will fail to upshift when the upshift switch is pressed.) There will be specific diagnostic procedures available for troubleshooting the above. Shout out when you need them.
Nige, after reading Johns response last night I actually came across the thread you started about the clicker box. To be honest, that thread is way above my pay grade. In regards to the active code you have given me I agree with the accugrade comments. I haven't seen anything on the tractor that would indicate accugrade . On the low voltage code...……………...I put brand new batteries on the tractor because it didn't have any batteries when I bought it. The old owner took them and used them on another machine he owns. If I bought the wrong size batteries would that cause that fault code ? Or does that code not have anything to do with a battery. Maybe the alternator not functioning properly ? One last question, do you know the actual battery size required for this machine. Thanks for all yalls help, very much appreciated.
Oh, one more thing. You are correct about the shifting. The dozer does not shift into other gears. If I remember it is stuck in 2F and 3R. The little yellow buttons don't seem to work porprly when trying to downshift or upshift. The owner told me they washed machine and after that, the machine didn't shift.
I would guess that the upshift switch is probably giving a permanent signal to the transmission to upshift, so it "automatically" upshifts as far as it has been programmed to go which is 2F and 3R. Probably got water in a connector somewhere, or maybe even in the upshift switch itself. Finding which one could be a problem though...… Don't get too hung up on the Click Box thread. Go to my post #45 above that takes you step by step through a procedure where you can create a McGivered replacement for a Click Box using two pieces of wire and some electrical sockets that will fit on to the pins of the Monitor Service Tool Connector which is identical to the black connector shown in the top of the photo. It's not that hard. The Part Number of the socket (circled) is 126-1768 - probably costs about 50 cents each. You'll need three of them, one as shown plus one on one each end of the other two wires. Just make the wires a bit longer (6"-long should be fine) than I did in the photo which was just to demonstrate the idea. It'll make it easier when you connect the wire assembly to the black connector.
Temporary track pin put in and welded. Will have the tractor at my yard next weekend.
Nige, the machine is now at my yard so I will have more time to devote to getting things done. I bought the Cat service tool and have erased all codes except the ones that are now active. I am not concerned about the accugrade codes unless you say I need to be. I can see on the blade that it had the laser mounts on each side of the blade at one time. Should I change all fluids and filters first and check any magnetit screen filters ? Engine oil looks filthy
I wouldn't worry about the Accugrade Codes either. If there is no Accugrade panel in the cab that is what is causing the Codes. Get the belly guards down and give it a good wash. Be careful - HeavyEquipmentForums IIRC you said earlier that the machine had been sitting in that field for years..? If that is the case I'd get the engine nice and warm, change the engine oil & filters, fuel & air filters for a start. Don't forget to clean the fuel/water separator, drain the cr@p out of the fuel tank and make sure the tank is clean inside. While it's warm drop the transmission oil and change the filter. Remove & clean all suction screens. Take photos of anything "interesting" Cut all the old filters and look for particles. "How to" videos on YouTube. You do have an O&M Manual for it now I take it.?
Belly pan is off, previous owner is trying to find it LOL . Will do all the oil/ filter , yes I have O&M. Thanks Nige
You'll notice I didn't mention anything regarding final drives yet. I was thinking about leaving those until you start to dig into the undercarriage.