serial number 1644779 Hi I am having issues with my d6r losing drive you can be plowing along and then all of a sudden lose drive, or it’ll be reving still and slowly come to a stop, if I’m sat still and engage forwards or reverse you can hear it engage and revs drop also but won’t move, also another thing I have noticed is if I’m sat in neutral and hit the brake the buzzer goes off and transmission light comes on and the ! Mark, fault codes I do have active is 113 0673.02 and 0675.02, which I know is speed sensor 2 any help would be appreciated and the sensor locations.
Correct. One is the #2 intermediate speed sensor, the other is #2 output speed sensor. But here's the thing, with the #1 speed sensors in both those locations (671 & 674) functioning correctly the transmission should work perfectly happily. The sensors are inside the transmission. You can't get to them without removing it. What does the oil look and smell like.? I think you could have more than just sensor problems.
Hi nige, I have been told that they have known about the speed sensors for a while, and right now it isn’t coming up with them being active for some reason, but I now have a active fault 113 672.02 which I believe is my torque converter speed sensor? Could this cause the machine not to move? When I pull some oil from the filter housing you can so almost a glitter effect in it, but the older fitters said that this is normal amount to see, and it doesn’t smell burnt or anything, just like nail varnish remover almost, got a brake light also on and 113 689.06 which wasn’t on when I initially posted the thread, I have read that this is for the brake solenoid under the seat could be n/g so currently taking the seat out to take a look. Thanks again
Indeed it is. That is for the left brake solenoid - current above normal. I wonder if with all these Codes seeming appearing out of nowhere you have wiring issues.? Your "Serial Number" posted above is actually the arrangement number. If you want an electrical schematic I'm going to need a good machine Serial Number. Look on the plate for the "Product Identification Numnber". Not in my world it isn't. Any amount of sparklies in the oil indicates that something is starting to come apart somewhere.
The .02 on the end of those speed sensor codes means “Data erratic, intermittent or incorrect” I reckon it’ll be the other way around. Machine not moving will cause the speed sensor codes.
Machine serial number ade00462
What pressure should I be getting at the test point near the brake solenoids? Not that I’m getting any mind it’s sitting at 0 if hand brake is applied or not
The torque converter speed sensor is a pig to get at, I usually tackle these from underneath so it's belly pan off then chip away at all the crud, the sensor is vertical on the outer case of the torque above the drive output shaft, its a 2 wire job and you need to clean all around it before removing it, the plug will be a dog to undo, then you need a mirror to look down onto the teeth to correctly position the gear, I back the new sensor off nearly 3/4 of a turn to avoid damage, you might then when your underneath check out the priority valve on the back case below your left foot if your sat in the cab, 2 test points so make sure the mag valve is working correctly at low speed, the transmission speed sensors show a fault often due to low clutch pressure, is your Tractor Diff Steer??? p.s. test the pressure at P1 the test point at the top of the back case.
That’s great cheers for that, I’m going to take a look at the priority valve tomorrow first thing, Is this the p1 your talking about just behind these solenoids under the seat/ above the top casing? If so I had no pressure showing. Thanks again
I think you might be advised to start working through the powertrain pressures starting with the pump and working downstream from there. See attached charts, pressure tap locations, etc.
P1 is as I said at the back of the transmission case,it's the quick coupler by the feed pipe, if the Torque speed sensor is damaged or failed you will be struggling with gear selections, the main pressure for the brakes has to be made first before the transmission will get oil and work, the 2 pressure test ports on the brake control valve show brake release pressure and foot brake pressure, 2 of the mag valves work on P.W.M ( 5 volts) the other 2 work on 24 volts, the transmission works on P.W.M, what is the answer to my question on steering?
Sorry for the late reply, yeah it is diff steer mate, I’m going to go deeper in to the brake control valve tomorrow as I’m getting 0psi at the test port, I’m getting 24+v at park brake and 24+v at the service brake solenoids when applied but nothing is happening with pressure if either of these are activated or not. Thanks again for everyone help
Have you got any pressure at the pump.?
Just quickly had a look at the attachment nige had sent and it’s Very informative, and I haven’t tested it at the pump yet no, I haven’t been back on the machine today so I’ll try test it at the pump tomorrow and let you know what I see.
Unless there is at least some pressure from the pump it’s not worth checking further down the line. Based on the sparklies you mentioned earlier I have a bad feeling about this……
A wise man once told me to pay attention to what Nige says, That's all I have to say about that.
Add @tctractors to your list as well. What he doesn't know about Cat tractors isn't worth knowing.
Pressure at the filter is 450psi
The park button runs on 24v, the foot brake limit switch runs on 24v, as you put your foot down slowly on the range before the limit switch that area runs on Pulse Width Modulation (PWM) 5 volt, the pressure at the filter should be the same on the test port at the back case.
Sorry which test port are you referring to at the back of the case? I’ve checked all the clutch pressure points and they all seem to be fine and then I have tested the transmission relief Vance at the rear and getting 50psi there and then 0 at L1
You need to read the posts and stop looking at the wrong things, right your picture of the brake control valve shows the valve knee deep in crap, you can hardly see the tops of the 2 pressure test ports, Nige sent you a CAT Test point and pressure chart showing to a degree all the test point locations, the steel feed pipe comes across the the top of the case and fits onto a 90 deg elbow, just below this elbow is the P or as we call it P1 test point, remove the back plate and you will see all the modulating control valves, they run the 5 clutches and they all have a test point, on the brake control you will find more valves hidden in the dirt, you might want to move the Park button on the diff steer control to find a bit of pressure, P is your main pressure, you need to see the correct value here testing at low and high idle, L 1 you need to keep away from as its not going to get you moving so just look in the back with the engine running at oil spraying every place as that is the lube, the drive from the transmission goes into the diff steer unit on the left hand side only, a long shaft takes the drive to the right hub, the steering unit is powered by a motor fed from the implement pump set and nothing to do with the transmission.
Found the issue with this machine, ended up being the solenoid below the 2 solenoids I have pictured previously, it was welded to the shaft with all the rust and dirt in it, although when tested it was operational it mustn’t have had full movement, new one fitted and full pressure straight away, cheers for everyone’s help again.
Back to Tony’s point 2 weeks ago regarding all the dirt in the area of the solenoids. I hope you took the opportunity and gave the whole area a good cleaning while you were in there.?