got and issue with my d6r serial 3zn00731, the steering has gone really slow both sides! transmission gears forward and reverse all ok. service brake and hand brake functioning ok. anyone had such an issue? would be great to get some advice on where to start and maybe pressure testing or case drain flow for the motor and pump? cheers
Have similar issue with my D3 and folks have mentioned I need to get some pressure readings at the pump and clutches. Since both are doing it as mine are it might be a blown O ring in a valve or such. I hope to get the fittings to measure tomorrow
Any idea at how much pressure at pump?
Sure don't for a D6, mine is 280 +/- 15 PSI (19 Bar) Maybe have a 30 bar gauge and give it a try
The D6R is differential steer. Nothing like a D3. Deffinatly need to check pressures first though. Did it happen slow or all at once?
The d6r diff sterr motor runs off the same hydraulic pump and valve as the blade.so if your blade and tilt function has not changed I would be looking at linkage then valves then diff steer motor.
I forgot about that linkage issue with those! There is a linkage rod on the older ones that runs under the floor that goes from the tiller handle to the valve. The linkage on the right end wears out also the mount bolts for the main control valve were bad about coming loose. Its hard to reach them all but they go in from the bottom.
Happened in a few days, wasn't sudden!yes feels like the blade and ripper has slowed down aswell. And right aswell the control valve bracket bolts are all lost,it's a nightmare putting them back in looks like I'm gonna have to pull it out to re thread the holes as they seem damaged. Did you pressure test at pump,I'm getting 2500psi at full rpm,service brake on with full steer left and right!
I worked on the ones like yours allot when they were new. I replaced allot of those bolts and the linkage rod ends but I don't remember the pressures off the top of my head. I know they eventually changed to bigger hydraulic test fittings on those because they increased system pressure so it is not safe to use standard size gauge hoses. If it has the bigger than normal test fittings you are supposed to use 10,000 psi hoses. If your main control valve is moving when you move the hydraulic controls. You won't reach system pressure. Your valves and pump may be fine once you get everything bolted down.
yup hope pump and motor to be ok! pulled out the control valve and will have it back in tomorrow and see if problem solved(hopefully) thanks for the heads up i do have high pressure pipes and gauges will use that on next test.
problem found! actuator for swash plate displacement broken. im shocked how? any ideas??
I'm guessing, probably just due to old age I encountered a similar problem some 2 years ago, on a D6R s/n 4FM00535 with approx. 19000 hours on the service meter at that time; only difference being, that in my case, it happened all of a sudden - one minute it was working fine, the next minute it was barely moving the blade (had no ripper), and basically (if I remember correctly) not steering at all. Since the pump is already taken off the machine (which is a bit of a pain in the a** to do), it's probably best to have it thoroughly checked for signs of wear in the rotating group, at the cradles where the swashplate oscillates etc.
Glad you found it.
finally problem solved. put in a new actuator,swash plate and support and getting full flow from pump now,steering and implements working great now. have another question regarding the final drive planetary gears,there is a play in the gear bearings and if i press the shafts in more to get rid of the play than the shafts pop out and are not flush with the retainer on the outside! is there a shimming procedure for this?
The way you're saying it, I suppose the play is axial (the gears+bearings move along the direction of the shaft). Is it so? And how large is the play? I don't know of any shims over there; according to the assembly procedure, the correct bearing preload is achieved by pressing the shaft until flush with the retainer, then tightening the outside bolt to 240Nm (177lbft). The only advice given is to make sure gear turns by hand, they don't declare any admissible value for axial play. Your situation sounds weird...
There isn't shims in planetary gear bearings. The shafts for the bearings are pressed into the planetary housing and you should not be able to move them in and out by hand. If you try to tighten the bolt in the end of the shaft, does the shaft turn? The only way to know for sure would be to remove the planetary carrier and disassemble it. If the pins slide out easy after you remove the bolt then, more than likely your gear shafts or your carrier pin bores are worn out. It sounds like the planetary bearings are worn out as well. Check the inside of the planet gears as well because a failed bearing can damage those gears. Be carefull when removing the carrier. It is too heavy to remove by hand..
Ok realised my mistake thanks guys. I was pressing in the shaft past the retainer. No the shaft go in tight and dont turn when I'm tighten the retainer bolt. Just found it odd that there is a gap between the bearing and shaft head(opposite side of retainer) around 0.040mm if it is flush with retainer.
There is nothing wrong with being too carefull. Or trying to catch a problem early.
Oh man this machine just doesn't want to leave the workshop lol. Sorted the hydraulic pump,final drives now just sometimes the transmission seems jammed when i select forward of reverse, than play around with the gears 1,2,3 and it releases and shifts ok. Got a ET from a friend(getting mine soon) he said calibrate modulation valves but there is an error I'm getting
So, are you saying, it says there is an active code in the calibration screen but doesn't show a code in the active fault screen?
yes. but on calibration it shows error code 0002 active diagnostic present!
yes on calibration screen on et it shows error code 0002 active diagnostic present and no error on fault screen or self diagnosis
Ok. Get in the stored fault screen. Clear out all codes. Then shift the transmission to make it mess up. Even if the fault is only active a second, it should be stored. If that doesn't work. Clear out all inactive faults, run the calibration for modulation valves. Then, go back to inactive fault screen
tried that, im not getting any fault codes active and logged are all clear
Interesting... What actually makes the transmission mess up? Just shifting it to reverse?
Sorry. Just re read your post. Might try calibrating shifter. I've had the problem your having but it was years ago. 0002 is a code that can be looked up.
when it jams yes seems like reverse is the cause! calibration for shifter (forward,reverse)was succesful. also calibration for fill is showing the same error. any idea what code 0002 is?
I honestly can't remember the cause of that code. I do know that transmission oil goes to the brakes first then to the transmission via the priority valve. Do you have any recent codes for it? It is an electricly controlled hydraulic valve so, it can have an issue and not throw a code. Does the machine have any issues while steering?
When i had the et on first time there were quite a few errors, corrected all of them eg fuel sensor,speed sensor,reverse switch,brake switch and i remember transmission solenoid number 1 and5, but these two i erased and didn't re occur,the rest went away after i rectified them. No,no issues with steering after i repaired the hydraulic pump. I can't find this code anywhere on sis,
You need to call your Cat dealer or maybe start another thread here just for the 0002 code. The info is available.
I'll try local dealer but they are a rip off! They'll probably ask the machine to be brought in and transport only would cost me over a 1,000 bucks. Lemme try open a new forum. Cheers and thanks for your much advice
Are you in the USA? The dealer in Oklahoma will answer customers questions
Hi naheed, when having calibration issues like this I would suggest using the machine monitor to perform the calibrations instead of ET. the procedure is in SIS and is quite easy to do a couple of things to check make sure you have the correct transmission temp during the calibration if you have ET check the indicated transmission temp is accurate and the transmission temperature is reading within spec Mark
@r20d12 - nope im in kenya.will try the local dealer here monday. @MARK -machine monitor? ok didnt know calibration can be done from there. gave the sis and et back. have you recently done it and maybe guide me through? yes the transmission temp was within range,it said 104 or higher.
No problem just PM (start a conversation) your email address and I will send you the info or if you like I can post pages here Mark
Great thanks. Can we continue on this forum so anyone else with such an issue can use this info aswell.
OK ,there is a fair bit of info to get across, so the first thing we need to do is either purchase a scroll box or make one to access the monitor. the part number for the service tool is 4C8195 to make one your self is quite easy and hear are the instructions More to come Mark
Hi, For transmission calibration select mode 6 with the following procedure then select sub modes as required
Wow great Seems like i got some shopping to do. Will get on asap tomorrow. Cheers mark
Scroll box ready. Will have a go at calibrations soon. I'm shocked how how simple this thing is and what it does Cheers mark
Caterpillar's best-kept secret ....... At one time long before ET the Click Box was THE way of programming & calibrating.
looks like a pretty neat job of the scroll box hope it goes well, don't forget to keep temps up Mark
Yup came across it in the store. Yes will keep temp up Should go well now.
Finally calibration complete! Machine running great now.thanks mark. Was quite a job but the simple scroll box made it happen.
Had the same issues and dunno what to do too.
Well done. Good to here a success story Mark
Hi, All the info you need is in this forum, go through the previous messages , make a scroll box and you also have all the info you need on calibrations and fault codes
Oh by the way mark, I found out error 0002 on et was actually torque converter speed sensor. Although funny it wasn't showing in the error codes when i tried calibration with the et.
From my experience, if you try a calibration using ET, it notifies you directly of an active code (as in, you see a pop-up message on-screen) only if the respective error should negatively impact the result of the calibration you're performing. If it's an unrelated service code, it does not show up by itself; you have to check them yourself - click toolbar on Diagnostics -> Active Diagnostic Codes, or press F3 on the keyboard. I also love using the clicker box on dozers, even loaders & graders sometimes. On dozers actually, I've become so familiar with it, that I actually prefer using it 90% of the time, rather than connecting the laptop via ET.