Hello all I have a D7 17A Have only owned for 2 years serial (on engine) 10002 Shes a beauty and been well cared for I am a tad suspect that it could have a 3T back end on it is this possible? It has a wet clutch but the old style spoked front idlers and manual track adjusters The ID plate has gone from the rear It has a D7N winch It has the 17a gauges Can anybody help please The reason I am wanting to find out is that I have found another 17a for parts and would like to know if final drives etc will fit Many thanks LG
You really need to know s/n's of both units. Scratch around where the s/n tag used to be and look for numbers stamped into the case. A lot of parts carry over from the 3T but not all as s/n's change. In particular the final drive gears are the same as the 3T for 17A1-17A11980.
Thanks for that Old Magnet Been a fan of yours for yesars you seem to have great knowledge in these old machines
Also need a set of sprockets and could do with a new manifold if anyone in NZ has any
It will be hard to find a new manifold at a good price , I bought one for mine more than 10 years ago , quote from Goughs 4800 plus gst and freight x us . I contacted Hamilton Tractor Parts , they got me one , new unused , from Melborne 1350 including freight and GST to my gate in 5 days .
Are there any good spare heads on the wrecker one ?
I think the heads are good havent had a chance to have a good look at it yet looks like it maybe one of the last before the turbos came out It hasnt been running for 20 odd years but hope to fire her up to get it on a transporter
I came close to doing away with my turbo and making a manifold , would have been far harder to fit the turbo to a homemade manifold . Not so keen on heads off a going motor , doesn't seem right some how .
Do yourself a favor and at least put in new pre combustion chambers. I had a D7 17A and had one cracked and washed the oil off the cylinder and seized the piston and pulled the top off it. Then caught another one in time on the other head before it did any damage and it also was cracked.
Hi I have a17a as well, have been looking for the serial number, where did you find yours?
Hi there The ID plates are located above the starting engine left side of engine block in front of decompression lever and also on the rear of the machine left side of the rear mounting plate used for winch etc approx mid way in height from the final drive filler cap and the top of the transmission block
Well I found it on the left hand side behind the pup motor gear box, it is 17a13014 can anyone tell me the year it was built?
That's probably the engine Serial number, but if the engine is original, then the engine and tractor number are the same. That number appears to be a 1959. FWD
Hello old magnet I posted on my own thread but got pushed to the back quickly what could cause this and how do I fix it? My dozer runs very well as far as the motor but it won’t even spin the track s and push dirt pile 2.5 to 3’ deep it’s a d7 17a2890 if you could point me in the right direction that would be amazing I’ve tried to adjust the clutch under the front floor plate went in and out quite a bit. But no change?
I apologize for butting into the thread just really frustrated
If the main clutch is working correctly there may be an issue with worn out steering clutches.
You could removed the floor plate and try working with the tractor and when he stop pushing check if the drive shaft is spinning if so the stering cluch are sick but if he not spinning you need to work on master cluch and did you running the tractor in first gear
How do I turn the adjuster ring ? I tried by hand and cut my thumb open lol
If remember you need to desangaged the cluch lever and turne the cluch until you find the lock bock adjusting and loosed the nut 2 turn and nock on the small plate lock and turne the cluch 180 degré for lossed the second lock nut like the first one and turne the adjusting ring just a little bit and tight the 2 nut and try to and angaged the cluch if she click.
Thanks hector! I got it adjusted but now I have oil seeping and lots of smoke coming from clutch area it gets what seems to be super hot on the top of the cover plate what would cause this or is it normal?
Make sure your cluch housing is not over full and check if the oil pump gear still on shaft
I find if you loosen the lock nut as above get a 18 inch adjustable spanner on the lugs that hold the little rollers on the clutch hub you can spin it easy enough you want to turn the hub not the outer ring
While we are on the subject of Clutches I have just had the master out of my 17A and have 2 nuts and bolts left over can anyone think where they may fit and have come from please Bloody Rookie... I just hope I dont have to pull it out again