Hello all, recently bought a D8H 46A13057. Got her hauled home august 6th and is in very good shape. I'm looking for some parts and thought I would ask here before going to the dealer. First off are the cutting edges, my id badge is missing on the right side of blade. Blade is 13' 1" wide at the end bits. And I'm working on the transmission gear shifter, having a machine shop straighten and build up the worn shifter. They are also making me a a custom aluminum shifter knob to replace 7M706, if it's not available. I'm in need of the transmission shifter guide 7m8796, which is worn severely inside, causing missed shifts and is rough on the drivetrain. Cannot locate one online, did not know if it's available aftermarket. Another part I'm looking for is fuel strainer 8H3498, which I found on ebay. But I cannot find the fuel dipstick or a part number in my cat parts manual on page 115. The dipstick goes in the strainer under the fuel tank cap and is your fuel gauge. Let me know if you have a source or part numbers that I'm missing, and I'll try to get some pics uploaded. Really enjoy pushing trees with this crawler.
7M0706 knob is available all over the web.
I did find the 7M0706 trans shifter knob on ebay.
Are you sure of that guide number 7M8796, looked on SIS 2.0 and I'm seeing a guide for the shift lever with a part number of 2M8796. Unfortunately SIS says to "See Dealer" which may not be a good thing but worth a try.
I called cat dealer, they show a qty of (1) in stock of 2M8796 shifter guide, $635.00 If somebody has a used one that isn't worn out I'd be interested in that as well.
Used one, under old part number
You need to get acquainted with Machinery Trader website.... https://www.machinerytrader.com/parts/search?PartNumber=2M8796&SearchType=Start Dipstick is listed as "plunger" item #11 page 115 part number 2S9391 Which Blade? 8S s/n 29E width is 12'-9" 8A s/n 28E width is 15'-2" 8U s/n 30E width is 13'-5"
Guess I slipped when I edited my post thought I had included the 9S0597 number as an option! $115. is not too bad a price, but wonder if someone could repair the old one? I'd at least keep it around for a spare. Also has the linkage been checked real close to see if there is slop in the rod ends and such causing the shifting problems? A couple sloppy points can add up real quick!
I bought 2 brand new non oem shifter guides for my D8H’s a couple of years ago.They cost £20 each here in the UK!
As for your sloppy linkages,you need to start with the 2 bushes in the transmission lid first.It’s a faff to remove the seat etc and take the lid of the tranny,but there is an amazing amount of problems solved by spending a few pennies on those cheap bushes. Just don’t drop your spare teeth or phone into the tranny
Where exactly do I measure the blade? Somebody welded "1738" in big letters onto the back of the blade.
I agree with you on the bushings, a few thousandths on one end can equate to an inch of slack 4 feet later. I just haven't gotten there yet.... The gearshift was bent darn near 90 degrees and had a hole worn into the side of it. I'm having it fixed and straightened. The transmission shifts really well, I was considering buying a new shift guide because I have a 1992 d4c that was severely worn and have never gotten it's shifter fixed. So I'm trying to start off right with this d8.
I'd love to have a cheaper aftermarket one.
I measured the top of the end bits, which stick just a bit past the actual width of the moldboard, and got 12' 9"
Looks like an SU blade to me. Send the photos into the Cat parts guy and he should be able to identify the edges and corners from that. At worst he will ask you for the measurements on the edges.
At 13'-1" across the end bits that would be a later 8S blade used on 46A19392-up with a blade s/n 69Exxxx.
Lindsey, can you measure the overall length of the cutting edges.? Also measure the centre-to-centre distance of the bolt holes, plus the distance from the last bolt hole to the end of the cutting edge. That would be "L", "B", "C", & "D", in the diagram below. "B" & "D" might well be the same but check anyway. Metric measurements would be ideal. With those measurements I can likely find the Part Numbers that will fit. With the Cat P/Ns you could also go aftermarket if you wanted to.
For the 69Exxxx blade Center cutting edges (2) 6J7116 RH end bit 5J8769 LH end bit 5J8770
Cutting edge measurements: B and D are the same. L-60" width on center (2) cutting edges B- outside diameter of bolt head in bit 1.5" on the center (2) cutting edges C-- on the (2) (left and right) end bits outside front of blade is 1.75" diameter End bits are 16.25" wide at the tops. All parts are 13/8" thick. (7) bolt holes in the end bits (10) bolts of each center cutting edge, for a total of 20.
Based on Lindsey's length measurement the numbers supplied by OM are correct. 6J-7116 has been cancelled & replaced by 4T-3418. Same measurements though. This edge is 1" thick. If you want an edge of the same length but 1.75" thick order 107-3476. Whichever of the numbers above that you buy you'll need two of them.
Your D8 looks quite nice Your blade is a standard 8S blade and will be easy to buy edges for. It has 2 center edges and 2 corner shoes as seen in your picture. The D8K has 3 center edges. If you get them made up,it’s likely you’ll need to trim them up abit to make things fit. Personally,I use genuine Cat edges as they fit perfectly and aren’t too badly priced.In saying that,I’ve been buying MST Bucyrus edges for the last 4 years as they are cheaper and have been lasting longer in my application. I’m not sure if you can source them in the US though?
I really appreciate everyone's help. So is the blade prefix a 29E or 69E? 8S? I got it back together this evening, and raised the blade to look at the bottom of the current cutting edges. The end bits barely have any bevel left, and the 2 center edges are flat on the bottoms. When I put cat edges on my D4C 7kg years ago, it had an angled bevel like a knife, and would dig much better. I'm not crazy right? It's supposed to have a bevel like a knife blade to cut with. I've replaced more bucket teeth than cutting edges. More pics forthcoming.
Your blade is a semi u blade D-8s don't have straight blades. Your cutting edges are flat and the tapered edge will wear flat. they have a lot of wear left other than being broken These guys are guessing which blade you have. Look on the right side back of the blade there may be a serial number tag ,if the tag is gone look for the rivet holes the number will be stamped between them. Good luck Bob
The straight blades are of a modified "U" design. Really do need a s/n to get it right. The straight blade is the only one that matches your width dimensions. ,
The D8H has 2 10 bolt sections, the D8K has 3 7 bolt sections, both types are common to find. tctractors
You need to get tighter with your measuring. To be a 8S 69E with 4T3418 cutting edges the length is 60.34", 6" bolt spacing and first hole 3.17" in from the ends. This is a 1" thick cutting edge. My info does not show a 1-3/8 thick cutting edge for the 69E
Made a mistake, measurement from top of end bit to end bit is 12' 9". BUT I did find my blade serial number, tag is missing but can read it stamped into blade: 29E5638.
Got my gauges all replaced and throttle knob installed today. Beginning to consider welding peices into the broken center edges or just replacing the 2 center cutting edges. I wonder if they will come off and leave the end bits on? Nige has me thinking since I have at least 1.25" of edge left before i get into the moldboard.
29E5638 (correct for your s/n) is an 8S blade with latest number cutting edges (2) 4T6531. These are 1" thick. The end bits are LH 4J8850, RH 4J8849 and are 1-1/8" thick. Welding on cutting edges can be done, iffy at best, helps to have special rod which I don't recall. Late "S" Blades...
Just as well to leave them alone until they really need to be messed with you would have to be doing some pretty fine work with the old 8 to even notice those little strips of dirt that get though and run over by the tracks
The cutting edges on that blade have been worn way past the replace point in the past and Your frogs have been have been worn off. Your cutting edges can be turned as the upper side is full width just have to buy bolts. If you look at the left side you will see how the edge is sniped off to allow the blade to be turned to the other side. I would go ahead and run them for a while. In homeowner land this blade may be called a straight blade in in caterpillar land it's called a semi-u blade. Keep a close eye on the water level and temp these motors won't take over heating well. I'm just finishing up a 583 with 2 busted heads same motor. Happy dozing Bob
I believe the book term is “semi universal.” Straight blades as I recall are used to push scrapers.
Call it what you want but when you need parts this is how Cat lists it.
You'd want a welding rod designed for difficult to weld steels such as spring steel and high carbon steel. Coincidently it's the same type of rod used for removing broken bolts, generally 120-130,000 tensile strength. Most specialty rod suppliers have them in smaller packages. Preheat would also be advisable if you went the welding route.
I weld grader blades together all the time with normal 7018. They wear it off before it ever breaks.
7018 and lots of preheat may work on standard blades but I'm not sure what dozer blades are made from.
All are Cat DH2 steel from what I remember. Someone may have better information however.
some cheaper edges are carbon steel and may be case-hardened. the best edges for wear and low to moderate impact are through-hardened. you get what you pay for
I ordered 2 4T6531 center cutting edges and bolt/nuts today from Warren Cat. I do agree with you get what you pay for, and I always liked cat's bolts and nuts better. The 4T6513 are just barely shorter in length than the 4T3418 edges. Hoping the shorter overall length will allow me to leave the end bits on(no cutting of bolts) and just simply replace the 2 center edges. If not, I've got a grinder. Will likely replace the whole edge later as Nige suggested with 1.75" thick hardware. Also ordered the shifter guide 2M8796, crazy for spending that much $$, but I want it to be right and stay right for a long time. Ran it today about 2 hours stripping topsoil, it's incredibly hot here in southern oklahoma, engine water temp gets to 200f, I let it sit at high idle for 10 minutes and the temp drops back down on the gauge. Oil pressure is a smitch low but I'm running 15-40 instead of sae30. I've also noticed the fuel pressure gauge isn't in the green, but in the middle. Don't quite understand the fuel pressure as this is my first machine with this particular gauge.
You don't want to use a thicker cutting edge as you will lose cutting action. The 4T-6531 edges are the right ones for your blade. You should be able to change any of the blades or end bits without changing the others. Clean the blade and the back of the new blades with your grinder Make sure you tighten the new bolts tighter than you think they need to be.. Block the blade up so it won't mash you. Be careful. Check you fan belts and wash out the radiator . if you have a reversible fan put it on push. check the water every time you start the tractor. Good luck Bob
Usually when the fuel pressure gauge is running below the green zone, the fuel filters need changing. Other than regularly changing them, thats how you know they are starting to get restricted.
That tractor should have a screen in a metal bowl in the fuel line right before the pump. The nut on top 15/16s. dump the bowl and blow out the screen. Turn the fuel off under the right side of the fuel tank. There is a drain plug right below the filters will drain the sludge in the filter housing. after you change filters open the fuel tank and the wheel on the top of the filter housing and the filters will self bleed if the tank is mostly full. Bob
Usually you get what you pay for but sometimes OEM prices are out of this world. The Cat dealer here wanted $1200 for a new 3204 water pump no exchange. That is kind of crazy.
I bought a water pump for my D4c about 10 years ago from cat, think it was $400. Replaced one on my 455G crawler, it's the earlier version with belts instead of serpentine, it was $800. If it were the later serpentine version cost would have been less than $250. Go figure.
Thank you for the advice. I'm slowing working my way thru this tractor. Working on a septic system install, too hot to go mess with D8 after that.
I never thought of that, I do have an operator's manual, I bet it's in there.
Like I said before,here in the UK we refer to your blade as an 8S blade.I note that Cat describes it as an 8S too in a previous post in this thread. I’ve owned 12 of these 46A/68A D8’s all with 8S blades as in the op’s picture. If I recall,my D8H parts books offer up 8A 8C 8S 8SU and 8U blades,same for D8K’s. However,my later hidrive D8’s,they seem to designate their 8S blades as 8SU
In the 90s Cat changed calling their semi-u blades straight blades . The D-7 is the biggest tractor to have a true straight blade none of the bigger tractors did. If you have any old One Safe source books or Cat Performance Handbooks from the late 90s on take a peek. The 29E blade is now listed as a 8SU blade. Bob
Been pushing up topsoil and having a good time running the D8. I'm in the process of changing filters and ran into something weird with the primary fuel filter housing. previous owner welded up the bottom of the primary bowl, pn 8H-2810, so I'm replacing it along with the nut, 8H-2807. My question is about the threads. Got new parts in, and they won't thread together, even with new nut. Old parts were somewhat difficult as well, but still in use. I tapped and chased threads after galling up and it's a no go. So returning new parts. Threads seem to be 3/8-24 nf. Anyone else ever experienced this? Also replaced the fuel pressure gauge, and after changing and flushing secondary bowl, I think my fuel transfer pump is shot due to contamination and primary filter being improperly seated inside thus stuff getting by. Dozer runs good even with low fuel pressure, starts well, but new gauge has started fluttering. So after reading service manual, I'm guessing it's time for a new fuel pump, or maybe the bypass valve is stuck partially open. Where is the bypass valve and is it easy to get to? Thoughts?
Could you get pic of the pump please. If it’s the later compact fuel pump,they have a tendency to flutter when they are worn out.This affects your pressure gauge as you describe,but can happily run like that for years without particularly affecting performance. It can get expensive replacing the horseshoe,shaft and plungers etc. The older style big fuel pumps were bomb proof in my experience,but the smaller compact ones were abit less tolerant to wear and tare
Horseshoe, shaft, and plungers? I've found 2 aftermarket fuel pumps on ebay, seller is globalpartszone, would appreciate help picking which one is correct. called cat dealer this morning, gave serial # 46A13057, they gave part number 2564756, cost of $1,541.27. Ebay pump is $207.00
He's mumbling about a whole fuel injection pump not a transfer pump. Clean the dirt off and remove the fuel line ,2 3/8 bolts and the pressure relief valve is in there . ask Cat about a yellow mark pump. Bob
Sorry,I thought you were on about the whole injection pump causing the fuel pressure issues and fluttering about. My bad. You’ve got the older style pump and I’ve used a non Cat transfer pump in the past at a cost of £100 or so with no problems whatsoever. Go with the e.bay item
My apologies for mumbling.
I heard no mumbling. I've been working 7 days/week so I probably uttered some mumbling lol. I picked the $364 transfer pump on ebay, pn matches what cat dealer gave me, 2564756. I suppose I need a gasket as well. Thanks for the help.
Please specify which 2 bolts. Is the bypass valve inside the fuel pump? Is it the 2 bolts on the side of the pump in my pics?
Inside the cover in the picture. Bob
When I ran a service truck it was not unusual to change Caterpillar fuel filters and screens only to have no change on those damned idiotic pressure colored gauges.
Got the 2 center edges off today, used my 1" air gun. Did not have to cut a single nut, never had that happen before. Did however have to trim the inside edges of the end bits with the gas axe. Is that normally how it's done? I never had to trim cutting edges before either. I'm thinking a previous owner installed aftermarket or 69E edges on my 29E blade. Doing the fuel pump tomorrow.
Got fuel transfer pump replaced today and have full pressure at full throttle now. Was pretty easy to repair, only 4 9/16" bolts and the fuel supply line. If you have rubber compression fittings inside your supply line, the part # is 4H-2662. Have a question about 2 open ports on the new fuel pump. I plugged them with 1/8" npt plugs. Read the service manual about replacing/installing the fuel pump, it says something about a drain line, but isn't very specific. Is the port on the pump I'm pointing at in the pic with screwdriver supposed to be open and vent to open atmosphere?
Just off the top of my head, i think thats the seal drain line and should have a steel line connected that goes forward behind and down, tucked in by the timing cover and goes down to the corner of the oil pan. Ya its open to atmosphere. Similar to the weep hole on an engine water pump