Cat 3406 s/n: 4CK13021 Can someone look up and tell me what the hp/tq specs are on this engine? Also, arrangement number, if thats available? Engine is in a 1993 Volvo. I've always been told it was a 425hp engine, but you can't read the data plate sticker anymore because it has faded away. It seems to run well, but compared to our 2012 Freightliner with an ISM 15 Cummins, it doesn't pull the same. I'm just feeding my curiosity at this point. I know there are lots of variables that affect how a truck performs, and I'm just starting to compare the differences between the two trucks.
6I-3401 350bhp@1800rpm
Torque 1335 ft lb @ 1100 RPM.
@Nige & @heymccall , thank you for looking that up and sharing. Now I know why it doesn't pull like the other truck. The other is 450hp, 1550 tq.
But it's still enough power to do the job of hauling grain. As we know I do it with just about 1/2 of that power and we still make money.
There's 3 screws that need tinkering
Even on a "C" motor?
My biggest truck is rated 28000 LBS GVWR, engine is rated 250 HP (Cat 3208, 10.4 liter turbo V8). It is under powered in a big way. Friends have bought an older ford tandem nearly three times the GVWR, it has an inline 6, I think Cummins, rated at 220 HP. I haven't driven it. Seth used it to take his CDL test as my truck is automatic & he wanted a standard transmission endorsement. He reports that empty, he had to use ALL the gears to get to highway speed on near level highway, took forever. Still, these people haul gravel all day, everyday with this beast.
Also your, I assume mechanical, 3406 is going to lack power in all rpm ranges over the electronic controlled isx.
It may sound counterintuitive but I actually like a truck that lacks enough power to tear itself apart, or wear itself into an early demise. Much more profitable over the duration of ownership that way. Easy enough to increase the power output of almost anything out there, but if the total package is not kept in balance, it will spend more time in the repair shop than doing what it was designed to do. I've seen this highly, and negatively offset those seemingly rapid "gains". Kind of like that speeding ticket we've all received in the past where we wouldn't have been stopped if we'd just have allowed a bit more time to arrive.
Depends on the engine not all cs where peec some where mechanical 3zj pre had both I'm not sure on 4ck
This engine is a PEEC. I know it has an ECU on the left side of the block towards the rear. I'm not looking to turn this up. It gets the job done. I was more interested in why it didn't pull as strong as the other truck when I was told they should be similar. Simple answer- they are not set up the same.
The good thing for a grain truck is you have the grunt of a big displacement engine when you let out the clutch is a soft field with a full load. I had a 4ck several years ago, now busted. It was an easy truck to start rolling when its soft.
I enjoy my low hp N14, has higher compression so it starts easier, and probably in the winter too, and has a small turbo so it spoils quickly. In the hills it does slow down but I'm okay with it. I should be able to turn it up to 330 -> 370 and that's plenty of power for what I need it for. When I was hauling water with a mp8, that thing would make you forget your loaded and then you would remember when you needed to stop lol. I liked driving the e7 at 460 HP because it was a older simpler truck that didn't give you def problems, and I slowed down loaded to make it easier on everything including me.
What transmission did you have behind your 4CK? We've got a 9 speed behind this one. Seems ok, all I've known really, but I wonder if a 13 would do better when we get in the hilly areas. Not something we would spend money on to change out unless the 9 speed crapped out, but something to think about when shopping for a replacement some day.
Will need one with mounts on the bell or swap housings.
With the torque curve on the 3406, I don't think you would benefit that much from a 13 speed. I like the 9/10 as I get part time guys to help that aren't full time drivers. The splitter box seems to be the source of most transmission problems.
I've only driven 9, 10, or 15 speed boxes as thats what we have, and we don't change trucks very often. The new truck has a 10 speed, and more than enough torque to get the grain hauled comfortably. I suppose when it's time to upgrade Bluey, we'll just look for something 20 years newer and we'll do alright. We will probably add another large straight truck with an automatic, when finances allow. Something versatile enough to use for silage and grain, that almost anyone could drive.
I like a nine speed myself behind most engines. I have 9, 10, 12, and 13 speed transmissions and the nine speed Fuller is the best and easiest for an inexperienced person to learn on. I also have a couple two stick Mack transmissions but they are no longer worked and any more a "different animal" to attempt to teach on how to drive properly. None of these would operate very long behind the torque rise of the modern diesel engines available these days.
By that time more than likely you will be looking at trucks with AMT's, those already have 10 solid years on the market, most of those are 12 speeds, eaton or freightliner. * Sorry but being in this business 48 plus and rebuilding countless Eaton's-trying to compare the ratio splits in a 9 or 10 on the high side to a 13 isn't there. It's a 450 rpm rise or drop compared to 225. Pretty tough to keep in the torque range with 450 rpm full gear splits. For what you guys are doing {short distance/farm related} it doesn't matter, long distance vocational/otr 13's are the only way to go.
I would agree with Truck Shop on the gear splits. I've never been involved with long haul trucking at all; only vocational and as of late farm related. The wider gear splits work alright and the road speeds are never fast, nor steady, so you tend to rely upon the engine to do quite a bit of the work rather than grabbing another gear, or running against the governed engine speed often.
I've driven 7,8,10,13,18 speeds with the 13/18 are pretty much the same and yes there is a huge difference and you should want the 13, 18 is hardly ever needed they are good for heavy loaded and need to shift up hills at lower speeds. Once you get into high side your essentially running 1700-1900 the whole time up and down and the gears are easier to grab without any grinding or effort. Your engine will last longer and so will your trans, your brakes will last longer because you won't need to use them.
My truck experience is not great. I imagine engine or transmission failure grinding up a steep hill in lowest gear with an underpowered truck. I have no transmission temperature gauge for my Allison. I presume all that torque converter action will build heat. I find the engine does not deliver significantly more power at speeds above 2000 RPM so I just keep it there and wait it out.
Kind of the same thing I do; just wait it out. I do keep the radiator, and oil coolers cleaned out and they are pressure washed each time back at the cousin's shop because it is such a dusty environment during harvest. Heat is the enemy of engines and transmissions I feel so do what can be done to minimize this. The Allison in that "S" series I drive has a temperature gauge installed but it never comes out of the normal green zone during a long and hard hill pull. It does however shift quite differently after dumping a full load off and exiting the scales, till when I get back to a field. I'm going to change the fluid and filter this next week hoping that is the reason for the shifting change. The upshifting is definitely different when the oil is hot, as opposed to cool, or warm. Fluid is not burnt and smells good, but is about five years old since last transmission service.
Depends on your transmission but it might be locked up and it doesn't build heat when it's locked up Put a trans temp gauge in there yesterday, will save you thousands