Hi All, I have a CAT tyne that's been converted into a ripper for my excavator. How do I remove the tooth? I can't see any pins or bolts. Thanks. Adam.
There's maybe four or five different retention systems. You'll probably have to post a photo, or can you see a part number cast into any of the parts?
That's a grader scarifier shank. You need to drive it off with a a hammer and punch. Wear glasses and gloves because bits can chip off the tips.
Thanks for the info. I'll take it off tomorrow. Adam.
Just as a matter of interest, the job we're doing at the moment has us scarifying many miles of gravel road with a grader. Too heavy for scarifier tynes, so we are using five ripper tynes. Thought we would try and save a few bob and use boots from well known Qld. aftermarket supplier. Turns out they are only lasting around half as long as the genuine Cat article we started with. Sort of thing you don't pick up on if you're not doing a lot of hours with them.
T'was ever thus IMO. Generally nothing aftermarket will compare favourably in cost/hr or cu.m. or however else you want to measure it against OEM if you want to use it in a production scenario. Hobby machines and those that only work a few hours a week then aftermarket can well be cost-effective. The only advantage of aftermarket is that it's cheap.
On that note Nige, the Cat Classic parts line is a fair amount less expensive, and I assume fitment is acceptable in regard to size specifications of various parts; what is the biggest difference in quality between their normal parts line and the Classic line, metal quality? Thanks
Personally I have never used them (never had reason to TBH), but from what I've read about them Cat Classic Parts are designed for machines that work less hours such as hobby machines and non-front line production machines. I assume that corners have been cut on both quality and durability to get the price down.
Thanks Nige!
Some of the classic stuff appears to have just been in a warehouse for too many years.
Classic parts are not for production machines - for example if you buy a connecting rod from Cat and it failed they would help pay for contingent damage that it caused to the engine in most cases. But if you used a Cat classic rod they will just pay for a new classic rod no contingent damage - go figure I was told a rule of thumb is if the machine works 500 hrs or less a year Classic parts may be used. They are 25% of the price of non classic for a reason I will NEVER put a classic part inside any component. Recently I had planetary gears that had some damage due to a failed bearing. The gears were borderline for reuse - it was decided it was less risky to reuse borderline genuine gears over new classics.
Keep in mind those are aftermarket parts from the land of "almost right". Expect problems with fit, questionable metallurgy and iffy quality control. Sort of like the "junkyard guarantee", if it doesn't work bring it back and they'll give you another one that doesn't work. Sad part is more and more regular Cat parts are coming from the same sources.
Going even further off topic... 563E roller refused to start yesterday, flat batteries, auto sparky was on site working on another machine and he investigated and declared alternator dead. Boys jump started and worked the machine this morning until I arrived with new alt. When hood was lifted it was obvious one battery was boiling....maybe faulty regulator allowing overcharge? Replaced alt and it fired right up. Could be testament to the quality of Cat batteries, next couple of days will tell I guess.
I always understood it as the Classic parts were built to the quality and specs they would have been made at at that time. So a gear from 1975 would be made to that quality.