The machine will not start unless you use a hydraulic function and will die as soon as you stop. Filter is clean no metal or glitter. Constantly under hydraulic load if anyone has any ideas relief valve ? Or anything else that could be the problem thanks in advance KDE00193 TL1055C
Do you mean the engine wont start? So i think you have to determine if it is an engine or deadheaded hydraulic problem. Start with engine. How many hours? Any smoke? Does it sound like its cranking fast and smooth?
Engine starts and runs great long as you are working a hydraulic function, no smoke 5228 hrs I think it's not letting the hydraulic oil return to tank and dead heading and killing the engine. Also when you first start it it will run for about 10 to 15 sec before dieing and no throttle unless you work a hydraulic function.
When did the problem start? Any recent repairs or service carried out before the issue started? My thinking is either pump is stroked(load sense problem or pump swash plate jamed) or there an auxiliary circuit that could be operating without you being aware.
Key switch broke and they changed it out Pryor to this problem. Also if I loosen the return line off the main valve bank it barely produces any flow unless I work a hydraulic function
Load sense variable displacement pumps pump little oil and low pressure when not stroked. Something is stroking up pump. Time to get the gauges out and check LS pressure. Hopefully someone with the proper procedure will chip in soon.
I tested pressure on the pump last night if I start the machine it runs for a few seconds at about 3500 PSI and then jumps to 4500 before it kills the engine. If I start the machine and work a function the pump runs at about 3500 PSI with a little throttle if I stop a function it will Peg out to 8,000 PSI and kill the engine.
Thats scary high. Sales brochure states relief is 3650psi. Aux relief 3000psi. Pump is stuck fully stroked. Im thinking something worn or jammed in pump control. I dont have access to SIS but you need testing procedures @Nige
Did the problem start right after the key switch was replaced.? OEM switch used.? I think I'd be checking wire connections if only to rule it out. The 1055C service manual is available but too large to upload here. You can find it on this LINK to the Cat TH Product Support web site. When the link opens select NACD from the drop-down options and click "Proceed". You can then select your model, serial number prefix, and what specific information you require.
@Rench please take a minute to appreciate that @Nige just found and linked an English language website that contains manuals for your machine. How and why he located this information is beyond me.
@Cliffy - if you ever want to use that site you'll need to select EAME/APD which covers the Europe/Africa/Middle East and Asia-Pacific regions. The info might be different depending on region.
Learn something every day. I had no idea this information was public.
Thank you so much @Nige this will be a big help. The key switch is cat but the wires could have got crossed there are three purple wires with no numbers or markings I was not the one that changed the switch it was their truck driver. Again thanks so much
There is an electrical schematic right next to the service manual on the web site I linked. Not sure how much use it will be though.
I’m having the same issue. Was the key switch mid wired the cause of the issue?
For anyone with this issue in the future. I found this was a hydraulic issue with relieve valves the over pressure of the hydraulics would cause the ecm to cut throttle to protect itself.