I have a hydraulic line that is leaking. It's just barely seeping but I want to get it replaced. I know I need to relieve the hydraulic system before removing it. But my question is once I do that is this line below the tank level and will it start draining all my hydraulic fluid? Is there any rule of thumb to know which lines you can replace without having the drain the entire tank? https://photos.app.goo.gl/azWtX5k4m7X46NEj9
There are few that will drain the tank, IF you have the proper caps and plugs. You need to purchase an ORFS cap and plug kit. Before removing any line or fitting, all implements are to be resting on the ground, followed by hydraulic tank cap removal. Most of those lines are ORFS, meaning the connections have an O Ring to Face Seal the connection. This allows you to loosen the connection two full turns, then rock the hose stem to see how much pressure is present. You always wanna seal any ports when the hydraulic system is opened, not only to prevent additional oil loss, but also to prevent dirt entry. Many times, if using steel caps and plugs, the machine can still be operated, albeit with an unusable function. The cap and plug kit above has two-piece caps, allowing the cap to be loosened 2 turns, then the center depressed to verify how much pressure is present, especially if the circuit is capped for a period of time, or, if the machine is operated with a capped circuit.
I think this is what you're pointing to, but, can't find part number right now.
If I’m replacing lines like that and have to take it off to get it made, I throw a couple caps on there so the fluid doesn’t continue to run out while I’ve got the hose off. As for what hoses will drain the system, the larger ones are more prone to and the pump suction hoses will in a hurry.
Ok so to clarify... I got the caps in the mail. Basically you just take the hose off as fast as possible and throw on the cap. And you just know you're going to lose some?
Park machine, remove hydraulic cap, reinstall hydraulic cap. Replacing the cap will slow the oil loss in the event that your replacing a hose that has a connection directly to the tank. Loosen 1-1/2 to 2 turns, the easiest to get to fitting, rock fitting stem allowing oil to drip. Remove said fitting. Cap port, and plug line if it continues to run. Remove other fitting and plug port. Of note, ensure that the O ring is still there on each connection. The O rings are reusable IF they aren't flush when feeling the port with your finger. They should be above flush. It is good practice to change them, especially on hard to get to locations. When replacing ORFS O-rings, youll usually have to pick the old one out using a fine dental pick or an exacto knife. Place the new O-ring on fitting and gently twist with a thumb or finger while applying pressure. Done correctly, the O-ring will stay on its own.
I'd get a bale of oil absorbent mats to have on hand, and not just when wrenching. when you blow a line they are handy for the cleanup. Do everything mccall says but toss a few of those pads in the drip zones when you figure them out. They don't take on water and if you don't drip much you can use them next time. https://www.amazon.com/Aain-AA003-H...lpcontext&ref_=fplfs&psc=1&smid=ATVPDKIKX0DER The link is for example but the local hose guys will probably sell you some, or the oil vendor, the filter vendor.
The lines you absolutely do not want to have plugged if you are going to start the engine are ones directly off the hydraulic pump. Those will result in a large (and expensive) BOOM! Generally speaking the lines that will drain the hydraulic tank are the pump suction lines and any case drain line.
Is the picture I took the hydraulic pump or some type of hydraulic manifold/distribution block?
The pumps are off the end of the engine behind that side door. The big pipe in this picture is from the tank. Everything behind the boom is valve stuff or the swing motor and gear.
The picture you took is of the main control valve.
When I de-boomed the 120, and when I pulled the swivel out I put a shop vac at the tank fill and pulled suction on it. Every case drain or return line did not drip at all while I was capping them. That worked for me, but it may not be the thing for your machine.
Probably a good rule of thumb is to always assume any hydraulic hose will leak some (or a lot) of oil and be prepared for that before you loosen the connections. Make a point to always remove & re-install the hydraulic tank cap to relieve any tank pressure and give the controls a bit of a jiggle as you shut down to try to remove any pressure in the lines.
Skyking1 has the suggestion that I would use if I were worried about leakage on removing a hose. What you can also do is look at the level of the hose compared to the level of oil in the tank. Hoses below the oil level will nearly always run or at least drip when taken loose.
It sure worked slick and I was glad to minimize leakage as I had just done a 2000 hour and all the oils and filters were new.