Hey guys, forgive me for being ignorant, but I know nothing about this machine. I have a 226 b Cat skid loader. Opened the drain on the bottom of the fuel filter to make sure there was no water in it, because my tractor which received fuel from the same tank had come up with some water. The machine did not start after draining and I did not bleed the air. I need some help with a bleed procedure . There is a bleeder screw on the filter housing. After getting the air out of the filter, do I move on to the return line on the pump? I see no kind of primer, I see no kind of lift pump. Not digging into it , very far, all I see is a fuel line coming into the filter housing, a fuel line exiting the housing and going straight to the injection pump. I see no bleeder, no primer, on the injection pump. Can you guys set me straight on what I need to do? thanks!!
When I googles 226b inj. pump.. up poped a "lift pump".. I guess it all depends on which engine u have in your machine?? The quickest way to bleed it is>> Loosen the INLET on the injection pump & spin the engine till fuel squirts out..& tighten. THEN, Loosen the lines AT THE INJECTORS {all of'm or as many as u can get to}.. more= better. Now spin the engine till fuel squirts outta there & tighten the lines.. it should start.. BTW> when u loosened the drain on the filter, did u drain the whole thing?? I ask cuz u said u were a NEWB.. for reff.>> water is heavier than fuel.. it will settle on the bottom until stirred-up.. always check on a "cold engine"{before start-up}.. The water will come out "clear" & not very much will come out, if your checking a "running" machine.. What I mean by that is> if the machine starts & runs under normal circumstances it cant be soaked in water.. otherwise it wouldn't run.. see what I'm sayin'?? The water will come out of the filter first followed by fuel.. you DONT empty the filter to check for water.. AND if theres room, hold a small container UNDER the filter to catch what comes out for inspection.. OH & hold the throttle wide open when bleeding & starting.. Good luck & let us know how u made out..
If its the perkopillar motor, there was no lift pump, mine came with a squeeze ball siphon pump, with a check valve on it. Open bleed screw on pump, squeezr the primer pump, till you see fuel squirt out at pump... Similar to this, you might find local marine supply store cheaper... https://express.google.com/u/0/prod...II3YLZCFmzTKAmf1hw02WK4PxjZZ7LmxoCZwMQAvD_BwE
It will either have a primer lever on the lift pump down on the side of the engine or it will have an electric pump on top of the filter. If there are no wires on top of the filter then you have the mechanical pump. It should be on the left side when looking from behind machine.
If possible a full s/n would help determine the parts this machine was built with.
I appreciate the responses. I got to mess with it for a few minutes tonight. I pulled the inlet line off of the injection pump and put a hand vacuum pump on it , thinking I could make sure all the air was out of the filter housing. The vacuum pump was pulling fuel without air bubbles. I hooked the feed line back up to the injection pump, cranked it over and loosened a bleeders screw on the injection pump and got fuel there. I tightened that and loosened the injectors and cranked it over about 8 different times and never got fuel out the injector lines. I stopped there, due to it getting dark. I did follow the fuel line that feeds the filter and it does go to a transfer pump on the side of the engine block. Should that transfer pump produce a pretty good flow? Should I pull the feed line off the injection pump and verify a good stream from the transfer pump, through the filter and to the injection pump? The engine is a 3024c and the machines sn is mjh07558.
Yes, there should be a good flow or pulse of fuel, at the pump inlet BUT U gotta be spinning the engine.. The fuel pump works off a "cam" & it hits a plunger to make it work{pump}.. so the engine has to be spinning inorder for that pump to work.. The injection pump probably has an electric shut-off solenoid on it..?? It shuts off w/ the key?? or do u pull a cable/knob?? If it electric, MAKE SURE u have power at it.. U should be able to hear a "click" at the pump, when u turn the key on.. WHAT bleed screw are u talking about?? Whats the pump # on the name plate? Are u holding the throttle "wide open"??
That transfer pump should have a lever on the bottom that you can manually pump fuel with your thumb . It won’t always pump by hand , it depends on where the cam lobe is when the engine stops. If it’s on the top of the lobe the lever won’t work.
Ya gotta remember MT.. just because the hand primer works.. doesn't mean the actual pump works.. Ya gotta be careful when giving those instructions.. or put in a disclaimer...lol
If it has an original transfer pump on it I don't think it has the external priming lever. See below - that shows the correct pump for the machine S/N given above by the OP. IIRC there should be a rubber "Bulb" on top of the fuel/water separator that is used for priming.
You guys rock! Yes there is a solenoid on the back side of that pump. I will verify there is power there. I did not hear a "click" from solenoid that I recall. On the front end of the pump, there is a screw or 10mm head bolt with a small hole I the threads which I assumed was meant for bleeding. Unsure of number on the pump but I will check and get that number. I do not think the transfer pump has a hand primer on it. I do believe the pump is the one Nige has posted. No bulb on top of the filter housing. I think I will back up and make sure there is a pulse of fuel coming from the transfer pump while cranking over, the proceed towards the filter and on to injection pump. I had opened the drain on the bottom of the filter housing to let a little fuel out, to make sure there was no water. when I tightened it up, I felt grit on that drain, so I removed it and cleaned it off good , just to make sure it would seal. Machine was running good before I done this, so you wouldn't think anything had failed, but I suppose it could have.
I don't think the solenoid is getting power. I am lost when it comes to electrical for sure, but I figured a test light would verify power. I did not see power with key on or cranking. Strange that this problem would occur at the same exact time of draining the fuel filter. I guess the next step is to try and find a wire diagram and start tracing the wiring.
Check fuses, first...
Well if this helps I'm attaching the test procedures for the shut-down solenoid and the pressure test for the supply pump. Note for the pressure test you don't need the fancy test set up they call for any good gauge that reads say 15 to 20 psi would work fine.
For thwe wiring diagram send me an email via "Start a conversation" I'd attach here but it takes about 12 pages and might be too big for the forum.
Thanks kshansen!
Depending on the "style" of the solenoid, you might be able to remove the plunger & spring.?? Newer "styles" are made together, you cant get the guts out.. That's what I do when I'm diagnosing one.. Pull the guts out of the solenoid, or carry 1 with me, & screw the empty sol. body back into the pump.. just to see if its an electrical problem.. If the engine starts, I pull out the meter.. OR.. I run a hot wire from the battery & clip it on or just touch the spade on the sol. & listen for a "click"..
Problem solved. Thank you thepumpguysc, diydave, mobiletech, Nige, and kshansen. All you guys were a big help and gave great advice and information. A wealth of knowledge from a great bunch of guys!
what was the culprit?