Hi Guys. I bought this cat D4C. I have some questions about it. To start out, I'm wondering if there should be zerk fittings on the dozer pivot points. Cuz the tilt pivot has a zerk but not any others. Thanks
I'm not familiar with your dozer specifically but I'm quite sure both of the positions you have pictured should have grease fittings. At least I've never seen a dozer that didn't have them in both of those positions. That is to say they should be there but on the end of the blade rod it looks to have been broken off, probably the same in the other position.
If you post a Serial Number I can look up what grease fittings are where. If you are planning on doing your own maintenance and repairs then manuals ought to be on the top of your list, unless you bought the machine with them of course.
I bought one of these a couple of months ago. Apparently these are permanently oil lubricated somehow. My D4C is identical to yours. Fittings only on the lower C-frame and tilt cylinder.
The serial number is 1RJ01373. I have a service manual, parts manual and an operation manual.
I was wondering about this as I saw something on YouTube about it.
The only grease fittings are on the drive shaft U-joints and the seat rails.
Ok, thanks. I appreciate the help.
"The only grease fittings are on the drive shaft U-joints and the seat rails." No grease fittings on ANY wear components other than the two mentioned here? That's wild.
There is a caveat that I had not considered. This particular tractor was originally sold with a winch but no blade. That plays into it when the maintenance is considered. Machines equipped with a blade apparently have grease fitting on both ends of the tilt cylinder and the blade trunnion but that's it.
Yes that's where they are, I have those ones. It seems weird to me that the other ones aren't there. I was gonna just drill and tap the cylinder ends as there's a spot in the casting for it. But then I thought before I fix something that isn't broke I'd better ask.
NEW BUSHINGS DON'T REQUIRE GREASE
Ok, I've got another question. According to the side plate on the frame the engine should have serial number 45v92427 but when I look at the engine plate it says 45v29122. So what is this engine out of? Some of the fuel system is obviously different from what I see in the manual. Also the tractor electric system is 24v and the manual says it should be 12
The Serial Number 45V29122 leads nowhere, but that's not totally unexpectedly bearing in mind the data posted from 30+ years ago wasn't always 100%. As you may have already deduced, the current engine is much older than the one that was originally installed in the tractor when it was built in 1990. Take a look on the engine plate. Below the Serial Number there should be an Arrangement Number. That would at least help to trace in which model of machine it was originally installed. The 3204 engine was somewhat notorious for ventilating cylinder blocks and because the engine has no cylinder liners the "repair" for a failed engine was often to drop another complete engine into the machine. It should be 12v. How are the batteries connected, series or parallel.?
The batteries are in series, the alternator appears to be from some other machine but just fitted on. Right this makes sense, from the looks of this tractor it has really high time, might even be the 3rd engine. Looks like 7N5139, if I'm reading it right.
I have a Cat 931B, S/No 25Y1213, and the 3204 engine in my traxcavator is original, and the engine S/No. - amazingly - is 45V29120. My traxcavator was built in 1980. 45V29122 could have been originally fitted to a D3B crawler tractor, or a 931B traxcavator. 7N5139 is the correct arrangement number for 45V29122, my engine is the same arrangement number. This engine arrangement number was used on D3B's and 931B's.
Not much effort involved in converting from 12V to 24V on 45V29122, just change the starter motor and alternator. No glow plugs in the DI 3204, and no electrics on the engine itself. The alternator mounting bracket lends itself to fitting any other alternator pretty easily.
I knew I’d seen the 7N5139 Arrangement Number somewhere recently. It was during discussions regarding a D3.
Oh, the number isn't specific to each engine. So more like a lot number or something. So if I got a parts manual for one of these machines then I could order the right parts for this engine? The reason that I discovered this was because the hand primer is really worn out, so I ordered one from Amazon, that's when I saw the fuel system is different.
No, a Serial Number is specific to a particular engine, 45V29122 in your case. 7N5139 is an Arrangement Number, a kind of Bill of Materials describing how any engine built to that particular Arrangement Number was put together. If you look for any of the following Parts Manual references online they will contain information on 3204 engines of Arrangement Number 7N5139 from S/N 45V21898-Up that are identical to your engine. SEBP1246, SEBP1247, SEBP1248, SEBP1250, SEBP1251, SEBP1252, & SEBP1253. Most Parts Manuals look like this
Each Cat engine from the early 1970's has a Serial Number that has a prefix, then a consecutive build number. In this case, both your and my engine are "45V series" engine prefix - and my engine was the 29,120th 3204 engine built in that prefix series, and your engine was the 29,122nd built.
Oh right ok, I understand it now. Nige and Oz Dozer thanks, the amount of knowledge you guys have is incredible. Now I can order the right parts for this thing
The 2 engines were almost side by side on the assembly line. Interestingly I stumbled across a 931B with a serial number one less than mine and it was almost a completely different machine. Maybe made for a different market or something. I'm guessing Cat must have made some custom machines to the buyers specifications rather than just randomly putting backhoes and such on them.
Hey guys, my left final drive was leaking, when I took it apart I discovered some wear on this gear. What would happen if I reuse it?
That looks like a LOT of wear to me, the pinion that drives it must not look much better? If you intend to do much work with the machine I wouldn't put that back in knowing it's condition nor the pinion (drive gear either) It may go a while but it may not too. It'll be much easier to change it now then after it's all back together and on the job. JMHO
Your photo only shows only one side of the teeth with a lot of wear. What does the other side off all the teeth that is hidden from the camera look like.? What do the teeth on the mating pinion look like.?
Here's the pinion. This is the one I really don't want to replace. It's a huge job
The other sides of the teeth are pretty nice, I was hoping to just flip the gear, but it's not symmetrical
You can turn the bull gears over, but you have to swap from side to side. So that means dismantling the other side as well! However, the bad news is - when you have two identical components, one each side - and you pull one down, and find it needs repair - then the other side is nearly always in identical condition! That pinion is serviceable for probably 3000-4000 hrs of moderate work, provided you don't start doing heavy ripping!
This is bad news. The reason the left side has so much damage is cuz whoever assembled it last pounded the locknut on with a chisel. It requires about 800 newton meters of torque which is impossible to achieve with a hammer and chisel. So the locknut worked off, the bearing moved out of location on the sprocket shaft, so it then moved out of alignment, the duo cone seal got destroyed, and finally dirt went inside.
Surprisingly that pinion looks much better than the bull gear. What does the bearings/cones that you can see look like?
The bearings and cones on the sprocket shaft are no longer serviceable, the gear side cone even came apart. The bearing that's inside the case for the pinion shaft is good, and the bearing on the clutch/brake case for the end of the sprocket shaft is also good.
Based on what you guys are saying I'm gonna jack up the right side, check the right final, if it seems bad then I'll disassemble it and switch the gears, if it's good I'm gonna buy a new bull gear, part number 5G5847. I see it's about $750 on ebay, but I live in the Philippines so maybe $1000 after shipping and customs
Tightening the sprocket nut will not give you enough press fit you have to press the sprocket on with a cat press and if the sprocket presses on to where the spindle is sticking out past the sprocket you will have to change sprocket and maybe the spindle
I'm gonna use a press to get those bearings on. Also I'll press the sprocket on since you can remove and install the entire final as an assembly, with sprocket installed.
Good luck finding a cat press not available any longer better find another solution
Hi Guys. So my machine has been starting kind of weird lately. I'm fairly convinced that the starter motor is on its way out. My engine has been replaced with an older 3204, the serial number is45v29122 , and some previous owner has converted it to 24v . I'd like to buy a new 12v starter and alternator. Would 7n4784 alternator and 4n0241 starter fit this engine.?
I would suggest first to take your starter motor to a good electrical shop and get a price for having it overhauled. You may find it is far more cost-effective to do that than go to the expense of buying both a starter and an alternator. Plus you may find that your problem might not be the starter at all...........
Thanks Nige. That was my first plan. Then this guy quoted me $100 for that starter on Alibaba. So I got to thinking I'd better make sure about the part number. Found out later though he really meant $888 when he quoted $100. So yeah rebuilding looks pretty good again. Moral of the story: buying stuff on Alibaba is a crapshoot.
I think it's been long established Alibaba sells poor quality parts.
Finally took it out. You have to take the bottom pan off to get to the lower bolt. Somebody cut a hole in the side of the frame so you can get to the side bolt easier, it would have been very difficult without that hole. I found out that any starter with an SAE1 flange a 10 tooth gear and clockwise rotation will work, as long as the solenoid is in the right position relative to the bolt pattern.
Sure a lot of corrosion on the starter. Perhaps that's what's wrong internally.
I took it to the shop, it's right near my place. There's a lot of corrosion inside and the solenoid contact points had black stuff all over them. The guy cleaned it up reassembled it and charged me ₱500 (about $9). I also found a leak in the radiator so I'm taking that to the radiator shop tomorrow.
This is my radiator, it's the second time I've had it out, it was leaking from a rust hole in the bottom before now it's leaking from the top and looks like maybe the middle of the core. I saw I could get a new radiator of eBay for about $1500. What would you guys do, fix the old or buy a new one?
Price sounds about right if it's a quality radiator. Are there rad. shops that could recore yours? That might be another option to look into.
Well there might be someone who could recore it, but if I ask around everyone will tell me how there cousin, brother or friend can do it, they would coat it with plastic or solder it in some weird way then paint it. They'll tell me it's recored, charge me like 10k pesos(like $185), then it will leak again next year. So yeah I actually just answered my own question. Haha ebay again.
Dipping in solder reinforces the fins. I had that done because the steel fins like the original rad. weren't available. The original rad. had some sandblasting from the fan in the top right corner from dirt/sand getting in inside the engine compartment.
How long did that repair last? Im guessing the shops here are capable of something like that.
I had it done when the rad. was re-cored. It was quite a few years ago but is doing great.
Hey guys. Is straight sae40 ok for my trans and bevel gear compartment? Thats what the manual says but maybe somebody has some better recommendations. It's really hot here, that's why I'm thinking sae40
You would be better off with an SAE30 TO-4 in my opinion. I may be wrong but I don’t think SAE40 is available any more.