warning light help...
Transmission filter?
I often wonder why in service handbooks they say such and such hours or km, then give a time frame. I do not know anyone who would have a machine, car, truck or whatever sit for a month then they rush out and change filters or oils that might have 0 hours on them.
Thanks aIot appreciate it very much... Do you have to reset this after a filter change..
No you don’t. Did it appear after a filter change.? Sounds like you would benefit from an Operation & Maintenance Manual. They can de downloaded from Cat for around $50.
If I am seeing this right. You only have six indicators with actual sending units that light up to indicate a problem. Coolant temp, engine oil pressure, hydraulic oil temp, transmission temp, alternator, and transmission filter bypass. The rest are blank. You do have a light that is lit up, but with know designation of what it would be. Chances are that bulb circuit is shorted to ground causing it to light up.
Sorry I used this pic from another post last night because I didn't have a pic of mine at the time but mine is the bottom right light lit up
I just bought the machine so I haven't messed with it and yes I am looking to buy a manual just havent got it yet... the light comes on after about20 mintues of running
What's the Serial Number of the machine..? A lot of what you see on eBay are old versions and they ask similar (or higher) prices than a new one. Like this one - a 20 year-old book at a price higher than a brand-new up-to-date one.. https://www.ebay.com/itm/CAT-Caterpillar-D4H-Tractor-Dozer-Crawler-Owner-Operator-Maintenance-Manual-1993/201615956626?_trkparms=aid=1110006&algo=HOMESPLICE.SIM&ao=1&asc=20200818143230&meid=e8d61a3b1c3542deac1557f65569a7a7&pid=101224&rk=5&rkt=5&mehot=lo&sd=200707455771&itm=201615956626&pmt=0&noa=1&pg=2047675&algv=DefaultOrganic&brand=CAT&_trksid=p2047675.c101224.m-1
8PB03062....... Do I need to change filter for light to go off?
If you change the filter and the light does not go off then you have deeper problems. I would suggest to also change the oil if you have no idea when it was last changed. I also suggest that you should cut open the old filter and look for particles. Check out a how-to video from a YouTuber by the name of "Adept Ape" - tells you all you need to know. Additionally while you have the oil drained it would be an idea to remove and clean the magnetic suction screen for the transmission oil (all this is covered in the O&M Manual by the way.
For an O&M Manual, go to https://www.servicemanualpro.com/?page=Products&searchbox=8PB03062 Right at the bottom. A CD for $49, paper for $57. (You may bet better rpices from their eBay shop.)
My apologies for the confusion. I glossed over the first post and looked at the picture. Nige is correct in everything he says. I will back out and lurk in the background. Praying for something simple.
everything works as it should no slipping no ober heating nothing i can tell
Normally if it the filter it would be on cold and go off hot but change it and see it is just a switch on top the filter housing a lot of times the wire will get broken if that happens the light will stay on all the time so my bet would be oil and filter or a bad switch
Back to my comment in post #13 above. If you have no idea when the oil & filter was last changed I suggest that you do it ASAP. Oil should be just under 30 gallons of an SAE30 that meets Cat TO-4 specification. While you have the oil drained, pull the magnetic suction screen and clean it. The cover is #31, the screen #34, and the magnets #41.Take photos of what you find.
I'm having problems with the control panel lights not turning off after start up. They get dim but stay flashing. When I hit the test switch fault light flashes like normal and panel brightens up. Help
Serial Number.?
All the lights?
I filled my D4H with 10w TO4. Did I screw up?
9db 04586
Yes all the lights and the guages aren't working either
Sounds like you need to replace the panel see if you have power going to gauges
Sounds like you need to be in the back of the panel checking for power, grounds, etc. The first thing I'd look at is whether the fuse for the gauge panel is blown. I'll send you an electrical schematic. When you say "all the lights and gauges aren't working either" do you mean the internal panel lights inside the gauges or are you referring to the machine floodlights.?
sorry about confusion, all lights in panel are still blinking, after running for awhile gauges just hang around 180ish, when you turn the key off while running usually you will see a variance but the gauges dont even wiggle ,
fuse in panel is not blown. wiring harness from panel to engine is fine. there are two connectors next to starter that come out of that wiring harness. pulled both apart and did not change a thing. one seperates the engine the other the fuel,tranny and hydraulic tank.
Quick and dirty check. Find the coolant temp sender on the engine thermostat housing and disconnect the wire (441 Orange) that connects to it. With the key on does the coolant temp gauge needle peg to maximum.? If it does, then the sender is bad. If it doesn't there is likely no power to the gauge. Because none of your gauges are working I suspect this is what you will probably find. In that case you have to start tracing power from fuse #1 in the fuse box to the gauge panel on wire #123 White. While you're at it you could also verify power from fuse #2 in the fuse box to the Monitor Panel via wire # 113 Orange.
Thanks for info I'll check this week
I don't know if mouse infestation is a problem in your area, but if it is I suggest to check the wiring very carefully for signs of having been chewed at the sime time as you are looking for power.
Got guages to work. Bad fuse cap. Still center console lights flashing. Got power at #123 and #113.
That's half the battle won then. Check the ground from the monitor would be the next step. Remove the 20-pin plug from the back of the monitor. Based on what you found in the fuse box look carefully for corrosion. Clean as necessary. See electrical schematic Grid E-6. There should be ground on all the following Pins - 2, 8, 12, 14, 18 & 19.
Here's a thought. Were you measuring with a power probe that simply tells you there is "power", or did you actually measure 24v with a DMM at Wire #113 at the Monitor connector.?
I know that DPF likes to break down in those machines. Let me know when you'll get your first problem with it, I'll help you out.
Seriously? Maybe it's the muffler bearings that take out the DPF?
I did not measure with a dmm. when i played with the fuse the guages went back to normal . havent got a chance to test plug yet. can you tell me what each pin runs to. sorry i havent been repling with the site down. im glad your back
****, dpf wasn't even in this dozer eyes back then. should have blew that all over the wall.
ill do some testing this weekend. thanks nige
You really need to test for power and for continuity to ground using a DMM. It could be that although you have “power” you might only have say 8v when you should have 24v.
All pins checked out for continuity. 24v at 113 orange.
If you have 24V @ 113 Orange and good grounds on all six of those Pin numbers I mentioned earlier then the conclusion is that the Monitor Panel is toast. A replacement is Cat P/N 3T-9100, and you will also need a Film (decal) 6V-7606 to install on the front of the replacement Monitor if you buy a new one. I doubt if the old one will come off. There are used ones on Machinery trader. Most are "phone for price", but one is listed @ $275.
Thank you sir, very much appreciated