Have any of you cat M series operators had the steering centering detent taken out the joystick. The cat mechanic told me that some operators have had this taken out and realy like it. I for some reason don't like the feel of it going in and out of it all the time(there wasn't centering on a steering wheel). Just wanted to here some opinions before I ask to have it removed. I have operated 140 Gs and Hs for 24 yrs only 40 hrs on the 140M, feel like a newbe again realy likeing the M though, every day gets better and better. THANKS IN ADVANCE
The M I ran for a very breif time had it removed cause the wheels stayed were i wanted them I would think that would be really hard to get used to while grading a curve or similar.
Did not know that was possible. Guessing new M operators would want the detent, some security in knowing where the center is supposed to be. Recent driving I tend to run articulated 5 deg most of the time... being away from the detent seems to go better for me.
Thats how I figured out why I would like it taken out by articulating so I did not feel the detent. I almost always articulate around 3 degrees when blading to keep the rear drivers on one side of the crown but its not enough so I still hit the detent. Thanks for your response
I've operated Cat equipment for over 25 years and recently rented the 140M, only after the yard offered a free day. I have several complaints, for operators over 5'9'' you'll bump your head when entering, steering is scary! way too sensitive. The cab layout for me is way too cramped. The new cab window arraingement doesn't seem to help with blade visibility. You can see more of the circle but the heel is always hidden behind the joysticks and window frame. And it's downright Ugly! I'll keep renting the 140H for now.
sdPete The district cat mechanic and I took the steering center detent plunger out of my machine last wensday, so I,ve had 16hrs of operation without it, the difference is night and day to the better I can drive in a striaght line again even deadheading at full speed is better. One of our other m operators didn't think he would like being without ran mine for 15 minutes and is going to ask to have his removed also. There is a kit you need to get with instructions, a new seal if needed,a puller and shims and spacers, not to difficult if directions are followed. Its hard to explain the difference exept you don't bounce in and out of center, so to me handling this machine is 100% better I highly recomend it. any questions send me a PM or just ask
I operate a 120m, have done 1800 hrs on maintenance grading and had detent removed at about 1000hrs, and I must admit with some reservation, but now would not go back. Prior to removal you aways felt you were fighting the detent. While the detent was very 'light' to feel, the effort to steer these brutes was greatly reduced. Trying to use the detent as a reference for centre is almost impossible as the articulation neutral button never returns to exact neutral every time, possibly due to initial setup but it seems to take several attempts to find neutral and is also effected by the road camber. Another consideration worth mentioning is that after a long day of constant steering considerable shoulder fitique is experienced, some steering joysticks are lighter than others and I have mine changed to a 'lighter' one. The m series does not want to inherently steer in a straight line and requires constant corrections to stay in a straight line both when roading and also working.
Those of you that run the M's do you think you will prefer the stick over the wheel as time goes on?
If you need constant corrections to your steering than your articulation sensor was never calibrated properly. Have your dealer do this and make sure they do it while driving the machine. that is the only true way you can calibrate it properly. 1 degree out of calibartion is a half of a tire width. I usually correct them somewere within a degree. changes the machines ability to be roaded drastically This will also fix the problem of it going two too different places when you hit the recenter button. I had two 120s last week and pulld the detent out of one and switched back and forth from machine to machine over the course of 3 days and my opinion is that if the friction packs are within spec and the machines artic sensor is calibrated properly then the detent doesnt matter. If you have a high tesnion rate wich will prob be written on the joystick module then I would remove the detent. I think the optimum tension rate is 1.38 but dont quote me on that.
So can the tension rate for the steering position hold be changed? I've spent 5000 hrs wishing it wasn't so easy to lose your line.