Hello, Today my chain jumped a tooth on one side when unloading topsoil. So I guess I'll have to drop the roller on one side and try to pry it back around. Does anyone know of any tricks to make this easyier? Thanks. it's a Deere 762
Many years ago we kept a selection of 1"/1 1/8" / 1 1/2" pins about 8" long. Loosen the adjuster on that side and insert in the sprocket as it turns to allow the link to catch up. I would only do this with someone in the seat that really knows the machine and be careful due to the moving parts. It really sucks when that happens if there is not a crane truck /backhoe or some other lifting machine around. Others may do it different but this worked for me many times.
Yup.... Sheepfoot is correct. In my case it was CAT paddle wheel scrapers, 613's and 623's, been there done that... lots of slack and two or three pins sometimes... did it by myself once or twice with haywire or zip ties.... and lots of cussing!
We used to have that problem on our 613's, 615's and 623's when we had bad chains, I was taught to find a root 3 to 8 inches rd and back the chain while wedging the root between then chain and sprocket that had jumped ahead. Hard to do by yourself but not impossible. I've also managed lean the pan on the stockpile and get it back in time. Losing the chain off the bottom idlers can be a real booger at times also.
It's been awhile but I thought there was a trick to it. I happen to have some roundstock laying around i can cut and use. I'll get help for shure . thanks for the help guys, mudober
I used to run 633's in cobble rock, and it was a daily thing, sometimes several times per day, to have to get the chains back in time. I would start each day with several pieces of 4"X4" hardwood boards, about 2 ft long. I would carry them in the cab, and if the chains jumped i would place a block under the chain wedged against a tooth, then back the chain up. It takes some practice to get the placement right, but you can get the chain to jump back in line. When done right, you can get several tries out of each piece of wood. With the small JD, or a 613, you might need 2"X4" instead. Softwood don't work, it just grinds up.
A safer way is to weld a bolt to those pins so that it sticks out at 90º. Then you can put the bolt through the chain and stick a nut on it. That will keep the pin there without someone having to hold it. Just make sure you only jump the sprocket once and then stop and remove the pin before trying to run it! I've done this for feederhouse chains on harvesters before. Much quicker than loosening everything off. Andrew
Andrew[/QUOTE] That a great idea. Give me something to do today since it's been raining. It look as like this going to be a problem maybe I should look at taking a link out?
We just take the pin out of the pull hitch on the front, put it under the chain on the sprocket and roll the elevator.... takes three minutes tops.
I used to just use the appropriate rock. That's usually what knocked it out of time in the first place.
Safer to use a tree branch or pieces of 2x2 . I have seen the steel pins fly a long ways.
Never had it happen, we are normally in good material and keep them adjusted. First time for everything though
Here is an update.The picture shows what I put together to get it back in time.Just bolt the pipe to the chain run it around the sprocket and back and it lined it up. Then i ordered two new half links and put them in, now my chain is adjusted properly. Hopefully this will help someone else on down the line. Thanks to everyone for there help.Mudober
Exactly what I have and it works great. Andrew