I've done 3 sets. It seems easier to replace the top ones by removing the brackets but it's a pita. Can you do it without removing them? I also see they sell poly bushings. Are they better? The one's I've seen have only one shoulder. Thanks
Are you referring to the radius rod bushings or the giant center pivot/ cushion rubber on each beam ?
There are 4 rods on top that run from a bracket on the frame to the top of the diffs at an angel. The 4 on the bottom are parallel to the frame. Bushings have about a 2 1/2" id.
Done a half dozen of these over the years and never removed the brackets.. TIO
What do you use to install the rods back on? Any tricks?
Soap and water only, no petroleum products. It is easier removing and replacing one link at a time.
Soap, my favorite is gojo original no pumice. Is is a super lubricant and doesn't make the rubber soft. Dawn will make the rubber kind of soft and sticky. Chain com-along for alignment, one rod at a time, release the brakes and block the other side use the tires to wiggle things into alignment....tio
That makes sense. Do you use the com-long to move the axles or pull the rod on? Last one I did they were so stuck i had to use the porta power and the jaws of life to get them off.
Okay Don, are you going to tell me or make me figure it out.
Pull axles together and apart with the com a long, for alignment when assembling. I use a 4-5 foot cat bar to pry rods off of spigots. Check your beam ends for wear they usually need rebuilt every other bushing swap. Restricter cans wear through on the tops and these need replaced, there are different heights of cans make sure they are the same both sides. Rubber springs should be replaced at 500k-ish or sooner depending on use. Check the wear of beam locating brackets on top of the axles, they often need rebuilt too. The beams will get stress cracks thru the welds, air arc out, pre heat a bit and weld up any cracks.......TIO
Thanks Don I'll give it shot.
Well, did another set yesterday. I tried jockeying the axles around but it didn't really work for me. This time I just backed the bracket bolt nuts off almost all the way leaving the bolts in. Worked like a charm. Could start the torque rods by hand and finish with a few light taps of the 4 pounder. But I'm getting too old for this "stuff".
I use tire soap to lube up the bushings, usually use my little 4 ton porta power body man setup to push on whatever I can to get them on and off. I do one at a time, have never taken the spigot loose but will keep that trick in mind! I usually get a full set of standard bushings and oversize bushings and put whatever fits best on as needed, then send what I didn't need back. If the oversize are loose things are needing to be replaced. I prefer rubber over poly, seem to last about the same amount of miles but poly seems to wear on the metal parts more. We run the #15 biscuit and Chalmers pn# 373017 restrictor can on our 12 yard dump trucks. That combination seems to ride the best although that is a relative term when it comes to Chalmers!
Give P80 a try. Makes any kind of rubber hose or other rubber fitment a breeze. Especially Chalmers bushings. https://p80lubricants.com/p-80-emulsion/
That looks like good stuff, where do you get it?
I get it at the local Parker hose shop. They turned me on to it.
I use a piece of 5/8" all-thread and a 15/16s ratcheting box end wrench to pull the second end in place.
That sounds promising. But the "spiget" catches the outer edge of the bushing for me. Might just fold the bushing over. I'll give it a try next time