Hey guys/gals. On my truck I am changing out the lower rubber bushings on the torque rods, on the chalmers suspension. (800 series according to the chalmers website). I installed the new bushings no problem, but they seem to have a little play in the torque rod eye. Im assuming they dont fit in there super tight, but I was just curious (before I throw the rod back on the truck) if anyone knows how to tell how tight the new bushings are supposed to be? Thanks, and if pics are required, let me know!
I am not familliar with the chalmers,but the bushings I have replaced always press in tight.If the new the bushing is loose in the touque rod eye ,something is not rite.Send us a picture if its not to much trouble.I have hendrixson suspension on most of my trucks.
They are supposed to be tight, did you measure the spigots for wear to see if you needed oversized bushings.
I measured the spigots on the truck and they checked out ok, but I am gonna double check them. Its the bushings in the torque rod eye that have a little play in them though. Like Ive never changed stuff like this before, so I am new to it. I was expecting to hammer those rubber bushings in the eye, and they wouldnt turn or move or anything. They sold me bushings that were the standard size, and supposed to be the right ones for my serial number. I took a pic but it doesnt really show anything, so i took a little video. http://s391.photobucket.com/albums/oo351/preppypyro/?action=view¤t=MOV02457.flv
Maybe it will tighten up when you put it on the pin. That looks like an aftermarket bushing. The OEM ones we use are a little softer. I would slide it in place and if it goes on firm you should be ok. Chalmers says if it slides off easily by hand it is worn.While you are in there I would go through all the bolts you can get at, ( I know the upper corners were designed by satan) I pull each bolt and inspect them you'd be suprised how many look fine on outside but are wittled down to the size of a pencil in the middle. I once lost one of those big washer-cups on the road from a broken bolt. Those will leave a mark on the honda following you down the highway.
My ol lady actually said that to me too lol. She said well just put it on, and tighten the bolts to the proper specs (135lbs according to chalmers) and it might tighten up and work like it is supposed to. One thing I never thought of, is sliding the bushing and rod into place on the spigot (that is the right term i hope!) on the truck, would probably expand that bushing a little in the torque rod eye, making it tight. (just a thought of course) I was kinda hoping someone here has done these before, just so I dont go install it wrong! That was pretty funny how ya put that about leaving a mark on a Honda! My first priority is just to get it to pass the safety. After that when I have time (and I will have time for repairs since Im still pretty new) I will definately check out more bolts. I dont want to be running junk down the road, and Im a firm believer that a guy can get older iron and keep it maintained and running down the road with the new stuff, as long as your willing to ask questions, learn, and put a little elbow grease blood and sweat into it! (oh and lets not forget money too haha)
That's a great philosophy. It's tough when a throw away society encounters something like a Heavy Truck that is built to be rebuilt and reused. I think Chalmers is a great heavy duty suspension, I have about 30 of them to keep an eye on, but our bushings definately look a little different so it could be a newer model or something. Look it over really close for cracks too. Did you know they made an early version of the pivoting beam ( sorry I'll check my manual for proper terms) that was cracking so bad they did a recall and updated them? All of ours have been swapped out to a new style. good luck, Tim
Thanks alot of your replies Tim, plus everyone else. Please feel free to add anything else if you think of it. Im not new to working on things, but I am new to working on heavy trucks! I didnt get a chance to work on it today, but what Im gonna do is try to install the torque rod, and see what happens. The worst that can happen is, my torque rod eye is worn, and I wasted 80 bucks on the two bushings, plus a little bit of my time. Oh I also checked, and stamped on the bushing is the part number 800010, and the words chalmers suspension international.
Just to update, I got all the bushings changed out, and it was pretty simple, although all I used was the most basic of hand tools (air would have been much much easier!) The bushings fit in the eyes, and they appeared loose like on the video I took, but when I installed the bars again, and checked them, there was no play. Everything appears to be good now!